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Twin engine rebuild

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esg

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Hey guys, I'm debating weather to rebuild the two engines on my 98 sportster 1800 or pay someone to do it. I already have the engines apart and determined they need a complete rebuild ( One of them was smoking excessively, both had low compression 130-140 cold, 140-145 hot. If I pay someone to rebuild them, does anyone know of a reputable shop you would recommend? Can't really verify if they use good quality parts, would have to assume they do. What should I take a look at in particular, if I decide to rebuild them?
1. OEM or after market parts
2. How to clean the crankcases and cylinders (removing corrosion, prepping them for new paint)
3. How to determine the crankcase half gasket thickness
4. How to remove the PTO flywheel?, tried applying heat, used an impact gun, still could not take it off
5. How to remove broken bolts? (broke several in the dis-assembly process on both engines

Any info would be greatly appreciated, would like to have them ready before the end of the month or mid april at the latest.
 
There are a few rebuilders guys use on here. SBT, FullBore and SES. I can't recommend one, I build my own stuff. I'm sure others will chime in and let you know. SBT is the fastest turn around, basically you send them your engines and they send you a rebuilt engine, not your original one. Fullbore and SES, they rebuild your engine and you get your's back, not sure of turn around time since the season is creeping in.
 
A remanufactured engine with a no-fault 2 year warranty probably has good quality parts in it, or maybe they're counting on you not using your boat much? If I spent the money for remaned engines I'd certainly make a point of running them A LOT while they were still under warranty.

Everyone seems to have good experience with SES and FullBore, SES would be my choice I think despite sometimes it seems he leaves you hanging and doesn't communicate well at all. If that kind of thing gets under your skin then consider Full Bore.
 
I used SES to rebuild my 657x over the winter. I have had it running on the trailer but not in the water yet. It purrs like a kitten but since I have not had a chance to break it in, not in a position to comment about performance yet. I can tell you that at least for me, he communicated very well and beat his 4 week turnaround time he gave me by 1 day. His price was also better than anyone else when I priced them out. Not to question your ability but based on some of the questions you have asked already, you may be better off on having someone rebuild yours. Would stink to put all of the money and time into them only to find out you missed something or did something incorrect and not only cost you more money but maybe the season as well.
 
I'm sending all my engine builds to Tom at SES when I'm too busy to do them myself and highly recommend his work after putting several of his engines into service and seeing the results of their builds I can find no better option for quality in workmanship and price.
 
Nice, thanks for all the advice guys. My main concern with having a shop do the rebuild is the quality of parts used. A two year warranty doesn't seem like much specially if you dont use your boat alot.
 
esg said:
Nice, thanks for all the advice guys. My main concern with having a shop do the rebuild is the quality of parts used. A two year warranty doesn't seem like much specially if you dont use your boat alot.
Click to expand...

My brand new boat only came with a 2 year warranty on the engine! And that is not a "no fault" warranty. To get a 2 or 3 year NO FAULT warranty is putting a lot back on the rebuilder that they need to get it right! They don't make much money when they need to rebuild the engine twice for the cost of one rebuild
 
I agree it doesn't really make sense to provide a 2 or 3 year no fault warranty if they're not going to do the rebuild properly. I have the tools however, to do the rebuild, I would just like to know what the best way to clean the cases and cylinders of corrosion and strip the paint is, and how to determine the crankcase gasket thickness. I guess I can pay a machine shop to remove the broken bolts if the price is right. I'm thinking of powder coating the engines using a DY kit. Thanks guys for all your advice
 
Research what it is going to cost you to source a new or properly rebuilt crank from any reputable shop as that's the biggest expense, add in the rest of the cost of the job to do it yourself with AM parts and machining costs compared to SES's price. It doesn't come out in the wash to even try and do that job yourself on non exhaust valve Rotax engines unless you can buy parts at wholesale pricing.

He uses WSM parts, upgraded bearings and completely rebuilds your crank the only way it works out to your advantage if you DIY is using a cheaper welded crank from SBT and who in their right mind fools with that if they are serious about keeping and using the ski or boat?

If you want a factory engine BRP does have some remans available right now, just a few bucks short of $2K for a 717 shortblock with a $700.00 core. If your repowering a ski nothing beats a factory engine for the higher compression, but on twin engine boat applications you'll never notice the difference on lower cost remans done right.
 
You're right, I'm thinking about going with SES. I will probably give them a call tomorrow and see what kind of prices they have. Thanks Waterluvr!
Waterluvr said:
Research what it is going to cost you to source a new or properly rebuilt crank from any reputable shop as that's the biggest expense, add in the rest of the cost of the job to do it yourself with AM parts and machining costs compared to SES's price. It doesn't come out in the wash to even try and do that job yourself on non exhaust valve Rotax engines unless you can buy parts at wholesale pricing.

He uses WSM parts, upgraded bearings and completely rebuilds your crank the only way it works out to your advantage if you DIY is using a cheaper welded crank from SBT and who in their right mind fools with that if they are serious about keeping and using the ski or boat?

If you want a factory engine BRP does have some remans available right now, just a few bucks short of $2K for a 717 shortblock with a $700.00 core. If your repowering a ski nothing beats a factory engine for the higher compression, but on twin engine boat applications you'll never notice the difference on lower cost remans done right.
Click to expand...
 
Yeah man, these guys like SES rebuild these motors all day long everyday so their work is gonna beat the holy heck out of what you can do IMO and is worth it. If your budget is tight, and yeah two motors cost twice as much but if you really like the boat and plan on running for for another decade or more those remans should get you there.

Don't forget, you've got to use the alignment fixture to get the crankshaft and drive shaft in alignment when bolting the motors back down, so you can rent one or whatever.

I don't rebuild motors anymore if I can send the core in for exchange or reman.
 
^ agreed. 20 yrs of doing these rebuilds and a little money saved cant beat durability and throughness of these companies. There is a long expensive curve learning to rebuild Seadoos, " the aint no dirt bike motor!" Imhop
 
Something of note...

If you find someone local to do it, if there is an issue you can have them pull it and address it. Hopefully you don't need it, but I recently rebuilt by someone local in Houston, and it turns out something wasn't quite right and the rotary valve gear stripped after some use. I was able to take the boat back and have him repair without me pulling the engine under warranty.

Just a thought.
 
Couple things I have learned on twins. Remove the air box lids. The driver side mtr consistently suffers engine failure from gulping water. Those lids are designed for pwcs when upside down. Second is keep oil tank at max half full. Storing boat with full oil tank guarantees crank seal failure. Just three times the force with oil tank so hi.
 
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