Trip to the Dark Side. (I bought a Polaris)

[Dr Honda]

Hi Guys,

Well... this thing came up on CraigsList close to me... so I had to check it out, just to make sure it wasn't a scam.

It's a 2000 Polaris Genesis, and they had it posted for $1100. Over all... it's in good shape. The people who owned it aren't mechanical, and since Polaris no longer sells watercarft... they didn't have anywhere to take it for repairers.

They are complaining about a drain on the battery, and that there is a "Miss" after mid throttle.

After a few minutes, I found that the gauge cluster wasn't going to sleep, and that it has the gray Tempo lines that most of our seadoo's have.

The ski starts up, and everything works. And... it's sitting on a perfect Triton aluminum trailer !!!!

I offered the guy $1k, and he said... OK !

So... for a grand, I couldn't go wrong.

I plan on changing the fuel lines, and cleaning the carbs today, and if time permits... I will throw it on the water to see if it has any other issues.

Let me know what you think.

FYI... this is the big 4 person ski from Polaris, and it's very Pimp. It even has a compass, and a depth finder built into it.

 

[Dr Honda]

I just checked the computer... and it is only showing 78 hr's on the clock.

 

[JoeZ]

Sounds like a hell of a deal. Is this goign to be a new ride or a flip for you?

 

[Dr Honda]

I'll probably play with it for the rest of this summer, and sell it off next spring.

 

[Dr Honda]

Hi Guys,

I figure I would finish up this post, just in case someone was actually following it.


I did the normal "New to me" maintenance to it that everyone should do to an unknown ski. I cleaned the carbs, and fuel filter. I changed the gray Tempo hoses. I rebuilt the driveshaft seal, and checked the pump.

After the normal stuff, I looked for issues. I noticed the tach wasn't working, so after a few minutes I found a burn wire coming from the stator. I patched it up, and everything seemed to work.


The following day, I took it to the lake, and as the last owner said... there was in ignition miss.

A few days later, I had a chance to work on it, and after methodically checking every wire, and every plug.... I found this...

Yup... that spark plug wire was totally burnt. When I disassembled the coil, I found 2 protective boots, and one was stuffed into the socket. This was clearly a screw-up during the assembly at the manufacture. The spark plug wire was not "Snapped" onto the coil, and after a few years of jumping the gap... it burnt the wire.


After fixing that, and replacing a start/stop modual... I have big-Ass ski that can hit 55 mph without any problems.


So... $1000 purchase price... $112 for the new modual... and I sold the trailer for $400. So... I have a grand total of $712 (and 5 hours labor) into this kick ass ski !!!!!


Here is is at home on my double trailer:

 

[Meme N Pop]

Sounds like a Great deal to me :hurray:

 

[jimraab]

What a deal! Looks like a real nice ski!

 

[rexsteiner]

MAN you even look like a doctor! haha jk. good thread. love to hear happy endings!

 

[rksnow1]

Dr. Honda, I know this is an older post but was wondering if you still have your Genesis? Hopeing with your expertise you may be able to point me in the right direction. I just bought the same exact ski and having a few issues. Got a great deal on the ski or so I thought.

It started right up and was fine for my test run, then I didnt get to ride it for about a week after I bought it, after having it out for the day I started to get a bad sputter around 5000 RPM and really couldnt get it over 30-35MPH. Then I noticed my battery was dropping quick and once it hit 11.7 volts I couldnt restart and lost my digital guages and all power. I did notice that while it was on the trailer sitting prior to this run that the guages were always on. Is this normal? After a week I only dropped from 12.3 to 12.2 volts so I thought maybe this is normal? Im charging my battery now and plan to work on it tomorrow if weather allows. Any suggestions on what to check first? Doesnt look look many people on here have a Genesis...

Thank you

 

[Dr Honda]

You should have started your own thread... but, we will move on with this.

First... Is yours a carb of EFI?

OK... Polaris has a few issues all their own.

1) If the voltage starts to drop... it will not start. (Even if it's cranking good) 10.6 volts, while cranking is the magic number. Below that, and the CDI will just shut off. SO... if your running voltage is low, the CDI will start to cut out. (and the meter on the gauge is known to be wrong, so check it with a meter)

2) While fixing mine, I found that the main power wire was burnt in a plug. (too much power for a little plug pin) This is the power coming out of the stator, and is feeding your LR505 module, and it charging the battery. I will try to post up a picture of this, so it's easy for you to find. (later tonight) I went on a search for this because my tach wasn't working.

3) Yes, it will look like the gauge is always on. BUT... in reality, it goes into "Sleep" mode. The clock and some of the basic info stays on... but it's a very low draw on the battery. (It cuts power to the senders) Also... the gauge is your security system, so that is why it stays on. (Seadoo has the same thing going on, inside the MPEM, with a low current draw for the DESS system)

4) The LR505 module is known to be weak in the 2000 Genesis and Virage. The LR505 is the "Start/stop" control, and it is also the switch to the power after the engine starts, and is the voltage regulator. (Knowing that they are weak, it is probably bad) The best place for Polaris parts is Parts Pit stop .com. The newer LR505 is an improved version.


There can be a few other issues going on... but knowing that Polaris is sensitive to voltage... I would get it charging before working over the ignition system.

 

[LouDoo]

I started reading this and I thought this is dejavu all over again, what the hell has Tony bought another one? But now I understand, I've seen the light.

Lou

 

[bigJake]

I started reading this and I thought this is dejavu all over again, what the hell has Tony bought another one? But now I understand, I've seen the light.

Lou

Tony, just curious. How many skis have you owned? Seems everytime someone asks about a specific model, you had one.

p.s. Lou, you and sis always were a little slow. remember when you and dad used to walk to school together cause you were both in the 4th grade together. then in the 5th grade you were old enough to drive so I would let you borrow my car.

 

[Dr Honda]

Tony, just curious. How many skis have you owned? Seems everytime someone asks about a specific model, you had one.

Honestly... I've probably owned dam near everything out there. (or something within it's family) I have a tendency of turning over my toys... and I've been playing with skis since the very late 70's. (I've watched, and experienced the entire evolution) Growing up in SoCal... and going out to the Colorado river all summer... I got to play with a lot of skis over the years.

I can honestly say... I've never owned a Artic-Cat/Tiger Shark ski. BUT... I have the manuals for them at the shop. So, I can still look up things when people are having issues.

Oh... and I've never owned a new supercharged seadoo, or a turbo Honda. But, I'me sure I will once the used market settles down. They are just too expensive for a toy that get's abused.

 

[bigJake]

well that certainly explains your expertise

 

[Dr Honda]

Here's the place where I found the burnt wires. The main plug, above the electrical box, has the wires from the stator. Inside... the pins are WAY too small to support the current. So... I didn't try to fix it. I just cut the yellow, and red wires out of the plug, and soldered it to a 2 pin plug that could support 50 amps.

 

[rksnow1]

Thanks for the great info Tony... I finally was able to get the ski in the garage today and start diagnosing. Looks like my plugs/ wires are good. I removed all plugs throughout the ski, cleaned and reapplied dielectric grease and replaced. Didn't find any corrosion or breaks so far.

I charged the battery overnight and the ski starts up... still showing low battery on guage, and after doing a load check I think I may just have a bad battery, I drop down to about 9.1 volts under cranking im hoping this is it...

I checked the alternator per the manual and got the 20+ VAC like I should... was reading around 29VAC ( think thats good). I put in a known good batter from my GTX and do still only get a 12.5-12.7 volts at the battery while engine is running at 3000rmp, where the manual said the rectifier should be in the 14.5 volt area. The battery does not loose power now and the low battery display is gone. Does this sound like it only was a batter issue? or should I be worried about the rectifier output.

 

[Dr Honda]

your LR-505 module is bad. At 3000 RPM... and a known good battery... you should be getting +13v. BUT... check it with a meter connected to the battery. The voltage display in the gauge is known to be wrong.

 

[rksnow1]

I checked at the battery with my meter and I am getting just below 13 volts, 12.4-12.8 around 3000 RPM so looks like I'm buying a new LR505. Do you know what the part number for this is or does it go by another name? I searched the partspitstop and couldn't find a LR505. Is this the rectifier? I'm assuming this isn't part of the actual start/stop button on the bars but I could be wrong.

Also I noticed your ski has a depth finder. Is this an option? I didn't see on my gauges where I have this..

 

[rksnow1]

I may have spoke too soon, I found this, sound like the right part?... 4010648 REGULATOR-S/S 1 BUTTON 505 $115.31 thanks

 

[Dr Honda]

This is from parts pitstop.com

2000 Polaris Genesis

SKU. Item . Price.
4010648. REGULATOR-S/S 1 BUTTON 505. 115.31




That is the newer, upgraded unit. BUT did you check the charging coils to make sure they weren't "Open"? Also... does the tach on your gauge work?


YES... the depth gauge was an option on the Genesis. There is a 4 pin plug on the back side of the gauge that it plugs into. They sold the depth sounder separate, and you would glue it in the hull, and plug it in. The problem now is... they are dam near impossible to find. (mine was in it when I bought it)

 

[rksnow1]

Sorry about all the questions, I know I sound like a rookie here. If it was under the hood of my Jeep Id be ok, but im still new to the PWC workings..

I downloaded a copy of the Factory Service Manual and went down the troubleshooting list for electrical. I know the manual is made for a techinichian that knows where everything is and I not being a professional may have overlooked something (I wish they made a for Dummies version and it had pictures). I checked the voltage at the battery at 3000RPM, checked the alternator output and checked ohms and continuity on most of the gauge plugs per the FSM.

I dont think I checked the charging coils, unless this was the alternator test... Can you give me a brief description on how to check for "open" and where or what the coil wires will look like.

 

[Dr Honda]

If you did the alternator test... then you are OK. That is checking the output of the charging coils.

BUT... if you open the main harness... and check between the yellow, and red/purple wires (the ones I cut out of the main plug) you should be seeing 0.75 ohms. (and nothing to ground)


One last thing... and this may sound obvious... but... did you check the 15a breaker on the side of the electrical box? If that is bad... or popped up... you won't be charging.

You still didn't answer me about the tach in your gauge.

 

[rksnow1]

The tach appears to be working fine. I did check the breaker visually and it looks fine as well, wasnt popped but I didnt do any further testing to see if maybe it was defective. I put a new battery in yesterday and low battery display is gone..

I just took the ski out on the river for an hour or so for further testing. I put a volt meter on the battery and watched it as I rode. The battery read 12.5v when I hooked it up, would drop to about 11v when cranking and promptly back up to 12.3-12.7 and stayed in that area for the duration of the trip. I started and stopped the motor 30+ times and ran through the RPM range to about 6000 and just over 50MPH. I know I should be reading at least 13v+ at the battery when running, but should I have seen a drop in the battery at all in that time. The ski did cut out and die a few times but would start right back up... not sure if this is related or another issue to look into, but felt more like bad gas(I am changing out the grey lines this weekend)

Thanks again

 

[Dr Honda]

After thinking about it... you wouldn't have any power if the 15a breaker was popped. (So it should be good)

Since your tach is working... the charging coils are fine. It's directly hooked to that coil to pick up the engine RPM's.

Your CDI is powered by the 12v from the battery... but the actual ignition runs off of a HV coil in the stator. So... the power consumption of the ski is very low, as long as the bilge pump isn't running... and I'm assuming since the LR-505 isn't working properly... your pump probably isn't turning on either. (It should start running after the engine starts)

OK... here's the real issue. The original 2000 year model LR module is known to be weak. When they start to give out... they can be simple like the regulator gives up... BUT... if other sections of the LR-505 fail... you could burn out a CDI, or other things in your electrical system. Since you are not charging... you are taking a risk every time you ride the ski.

 

[rksnow1]

Im going to order a new LR505 tomorrow per your recomendation, I was hoping it would have been a cheaper fix, but I have 3 skis all not 100% yet and I want to get at least one back on the water before summers over.

Last question... for now. I see a few heavy duty rectifiers available for various seadoo models. Do ou know if anyone makes a heavy duty LR505 version for the Polaris or would you recomend one if so? I rather fix once and not have to worry about it in the future