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Trim Plate bolts stuck - Problem solved by adding Nauticus Smart Tabs for now.

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dblackstone

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I wanted to adjust my trim plate to get rid of porpoise effect. In its past life someone adjusted it all the way up and mangled the phillips heads on the bolts (or perhaps tried to adjust it and just mangled them). It was adjusted so the plate is all the way up and can only undo the jam nut a half turn.

I put heat to them and tried my impact driver on them to get them lose with no luck. Any Suggestions? Obviously I will replace the bolts once they are removed.

Thanks
 
Yep... I've seen this a bunch... but it sounds like it's in the factory position. The nut is almost touching the pump housing. The issue is... you need a #3 Philips head... and people try to attack it with a #2... and rip the heads up.

Unfortunately, at this point there's no easy way to do it. You need to heat the bolt with a small torch to really cook out any thread locker... but chances are... it's being held in place with corrosion. SO... after cooking them... let them cool, and hit them with PB Blaster, and let it sit for a couple days. THEN... hit them with a hand impact again.
 
I was thinking it could have been they just messed them up when trying to get them lose to adjust it down, I put a #3 on them but didn't really try as I could tell it was just going to slip and make a bigger mess of them.

I heated them really good last night. Will do it again and spray them before I leave the house today.

Thanks
 
With stripped out Phillips, I have had luck driving a Robertson #2 or #3 in with a hammer to get some bite... Also had luck with screw extractors when all else failed.
 
With stripped out Phillips, I have had luck driving a Robertson #2 or #3 in with a hammer to get some bite... Also had luck with screw extractors when all else failed.

In this case... an extractor will probably just crack, and make it harder to deal with. The ride plate bolts are a pain sometimes.

But on the hammer thought... I've had luck just tapping the proper bit into the head of the screw first This has a tendency of reforming the screw. And, a lot of times, it gets tight. But this is also why you need to use a hand held, hammer style impact. The bit can't slip if used properly. I can't tell you how many carbs came into my shop, stripped out... and a simple whack of a hand impact would remove the bad screws.
 
i've seen people put a rubber band over a stripped head and then use a screwdriver. Gives it a bit of a grip so it doesn't slip. Not sure if that would work with something that is so stuck though.
 
Using the proper size bit (VERY important) and a ratchet, I did this-

Support the ratchet head with a small scissor jack. Use enough "lift" to keep the bit from "camming out".
Obviously, the jack gets lowered as the screw is worked out.
 
I had issues with bolts on the jet. mine had been used in salt water for years. I basically alternated spraying wd40 and pb blaster every night for about 3 weeks. they eventually came out. assuming the heads are too stripped. have you tried cutting a slot in them and use a flathead? I haven't looked at mine so I don't know if this is possible.

I also tried the impact driver route too (Ie. the kind you hit with a hammer). it didn't work for me but lots of people on this forum like them and have had success
 
I solved the problem, I installed Nauticus Smart Tabs. I didn't want to have to keep the boat out of the water for a week or so in July to mess with those bolts so I got a set of Smart Tabs for $144 and installed them and boat runs superb. No more porpusing, planes out quick and stays on plane at much lower speeds. They work as advertised! Very easy install. I lost maybe 1/2 mph but boy does it make it more enjoyable especially at high speeds!

I will tackle the project of removing those bolts once we pull the boat out for the winter, along with a few other longer projects. Thanks for the Ideas guys!

The negative, I don't get to watch my wife support her chest once the boat starts bouncing :)
 
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Next time I pull the boat I will take pics and post more info about how they perform in rougher water. Installed in less then an hour.
 
After 6 or 7 weeks with the trim tabs added. Planes out quicker, no porpoising. Didn't effect top speed and probably helps fuel economy as I can stay on plane at much lower speeds.

Pulled boat from our lake as water is getting low and lots of weeds, had to pull it in a few weeks anyways so we are going to visit a few other lakes and maybe hit the river a few times.
 

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I had the same problem with the screws. I was able to adjust the jam nuts up enough to get a hacksaw in and cut the heads off. Once the heads were off I could remove the plate completely. With vice grips and some heat I was able to get the so screw s out. Relaced the with longer hex head bolts. I adjusted it down 5/8 of an inch, may play with it some more and ho up to 1/2. Enjoying the no porpousing for now.
 
Yes I saw what you had done, I didn't have enough room to cut them and wanted to get the boat back in the water as we keep it on the lake all summer and use it 5 days a week. Now that it is out I'll take a couple evenings and fix it so the plane plate can be adjusted.


The nauticus trim tabs actually eliminated the need to adjust the plate and only cost about $145 on Amazon
 
I def like the trim tabs you installed. They look great. If I had done my homework right I prob would have gone that route. All the sets I found were really pricey. I think you did better with the tabs, prob give you more and easier adjustability.
 
Best part is no adjustment needed. They are on a 90lb shock that adjusts automatically for amount of pressure put on them when accelerating or turning.

Took about an hour to install.
 

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Perfect. Great work. Thanks for the tip. I def see those in my future. For the price you can't beat it.
 
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