Trailer bearings with brakes

[Premix]

I just realized inspecting wheel bearings with brakes means removing the calipers held on by 3/8” socket Allen screws.

 

[JPass]

Yup. I replaced the cap head screws with SS hex head bolts to make it easier in the future. I also had to cut down an allen wrench to get the factory bolts out.

Surge brakes are nice, but definitely makes servicing the bearings a chore. The hub is the rotor, so swapping them is a PIA as well.

 

[Premix]

I replaced the cap head screws with SS hex head bolts to make it easier in the future. I also had to cut down an allen wrench to get the factory bolts out.

That’s exactly what I was looking to confirm, thank you! I’m going to source those replacement bolts too. Do you still have any information regarding where you bought them?

 

[JPass]

That’s exactly what I was looking to confirm, thank you! I’m going to source those replacement bolts too. Do you still have any information regarding where you bought them?

I always have the best luck getting SS hardware at my local Ace. They have a good supply for just about everything I've needed for my boat.

 

[Premix]

So I’m really impressed how easy those Allen bolts removed. I’ve recently discovered how effective thread lock is at sealing out water. Normally I put grease on wet bolt threads, but I’ll be putting these back in using thread lock.

I dropped the leaf spring shackles to reach the brake mounting bolts.

I also learned the original UFP DB35 brake calipers were zinc plated steel and if you replace it with the aluminum caliper, it makes contact with the galvanized wheel. I’ll hopefully have the zinc calipers this week to confirm they will fit.


UFP 10” brake rotors with steel zinc calipers:
K71-773-01 caliper ass’y left
K71-773-02 caliper ass’y right

 

[Premix]

Zinc DB35 calipers are the proper fitment. If you upgrade to 14” wheels, the aluminum DB35 would likely clear the caliper, but fender clearance becomes a concern.