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Towing a Seadoo

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J

jjj

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Can a Seadoo be towed behind a boat at 20-30 mph with the water intake hose clamped ?

Is the proper hose for clamping located between the two larger hoses that go to the ride plate for anti-freeze cooling, somewhat close to the impeller shaft low in the hull and goes somewhere fwd to port side of engine?

2006 GTX

Thanks,

John
 
To answer your question. You can tow it at that speed only if you pinch the hose. If you don't you must stay way under the recommended 15mph.

This will prevent the exhaust cooling system from filling which may lead to water being injected into and filling exhaust system and engine. With out engine running there will be no exhaust pressure to carry the water through the exhaust outlet.

The line you must pinch is the line going to the jet pump housing to the engine.
 
a little more....

A bit more on this,.....the 4-TEC engine has a closed loop cooling system, so the hoses going to the ride plate do not have to be pinched. But, the hose you have coming in from your jet pump used in cooling the exhaust and intercooler if you have it, must be pinched for the reasons nswillin explained.

At the speeds your talking about and no skeg under the hull of the ski to keep it steady, I feel it's probably going to do a lot of side to side movement on you.
 
Thanks for the replies... Do I have the correct hose located as stated in the first question?
Thanks
 
Hose to clamp?....

Look at the parts index above, or if you can, follow this link http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=137&B=2

It's hose number 3, which is between the two coolant hoses coming from the ride plate. But, this water hose comes from the pump nozzle. You can see in the parts index where you need to pinch it too.

For the long haul or something you may be going to do regularly, you may consider putting in a brass valve. Or some type of valve that resists corrosion from chlorides (salt). That way, you can open and close it as you need to when riding or towing...........:cheers:
 
hose

Is this the same hose that goes to the intercooler first?

If so can it br pinched right in front of the motor?

very tough to get down there in my 2007 rxp

cat-man
 
Seadoosnipe,
Thanks for the reply. I followed your link (good idea)and I think hose #3 goes to the flush port for flushing on the trailer. What do you think about hose #1 ??

Thanks
 
Follow up.....!

Whew........, I'm glad you asked that. Sometimes, I get in a hurry and take the small things for granted. This could have created a problem had you not mentioned it.

When towing the craft or it being under it's own power, water flowing through the nozzle is where the pressure is created to supply your exhaust with cooling.

Hose #1, that you pointed out, is the water pressure supply line and #3 is actually the outlet. The only one you truly need to pinch (I went in to double check with the manual this time) is that #1 hose. The back flush line or exhaust outlet line is connected to a thru hull fitting, so will not be affected by pressure from the nozzle, so there is no need to pinch it.

But, I did read a warning to not exceed 15 mph while under tow. It doesn't state anything to the fact the craft may become unstable or if it's due to the water pressure created in the nozzle..........so, the speeds your looking at towing, you'll need to probably find out for yourself in trail and error. Only problem is, by trail and error, flipping it only once is enough to send it to the shop.

Thanks for bringing the #1 hose to my attention. Like I said, sometimes, we take these small things for granted and then, they can jump up and bite us in the butt..............:cheers:
 
To those that are planning on towing their skis a lot, a good thing to do is to install a ball valve on the line that comes from the pump. When doing this, it is also a good practice to put a lanyard tether on the valve's on-off arm. Having your key attached to it while towing will help you to remember to switch the water flow back on when you are at your destination. And, towing at 25-30 will be fine. Adjust the towline so the ski rides in a good place along your wake pattern. Also, make sure to test how fast your boat and ski come off of plane. Most likely, your ski will slow down faster than your boat. So, that is not much of a problem.
 
clamp off but what about flush in driveway?

My 787 GTX has a rebuilt engine going back in shortly... and would like to run it in the driveway to make sure its all up to snuff.. and that all works according to specs...
if I put in a ball valve which I was going to anyway.. , I was going to put in a flush kit.. same as in a car to re-fill antifreeze.. but this unit is not a closed system... so my question is,.. can I run the unit on the driveway with a garden hose and block the water from going back out to the pump? or would that flood the engine...??.. looks like your going to tell me its not a good idea... but could use a bit of thought on how to run her out of water..
thanks. :cheers:
Stan
 
I don't see a reason why you couldn't do that. ???? Maybe someone else will chime in. I think that most flush kits go the other way though. Having a flush kit on the other side of the system is probably a better idea.
 
a good thing to do is to install a ball valve on the line that comes from the pump
Click to expand...

When I swapped the engine in my boat, I put in a ball valve. Had to have it towed once, and luckily, the engine was cratered already anyways, but next time, flip the valve and "hey buddy, tow me faster...I am getting sunburned back here!!!":hurray:
 
ball valve ok but what about???

Yup, the ball valve and maybe a micro switch to the Dess key circuit.. to disable starting until flipped to flow through.. but I am still concerned about connecting a garden hose to cool her down as the flow might be to much and flush my exhaust right back into the pistons... or in other words the equivalent of the 15 mph pressure... I guess I will have to be very carefull.. unless someone knows of a fool proof way??? I would really like to run it and double check it before taking her out to the river or lake for putter putter sput poof...:ack:
 
Ball valve

A ball valve is a good idea. CAUTION!!!! Make sure the water passage in the valve isn't a smaller diameter than the hose your putting it in or you will be restricting water flow when in the open position.
DAWG
 
HI.
I am actually using a larger ball valve and hose with a reducer from the pump and head.. so the pipe will actually be larger until it gets to the engine..
thanks I appreciate the info from all the members concerned...
One article I read, mentioned to put a flush kit between the head and exhaust.. while it makes more sense to put it in line with the water inlet from the pump after the ball valve... at least that way it will cool the engine and not blow out the exhaust... any thoughts??? I am still concerned about over pressurizing the system and dumping into the pistons.... the article actually said to run the engine for 20 to 30 seconds, then turn on the garden hose and run it, then turn the hose off, and keep it running another 20 to 30 seconds to blow the water out.. wouldn't cause some heavy duty hot spots?
thats the same article that suggested to install a flush kit at the exhaust....( yahoo articles)..
Stan
 
Hmmm...not sure if this means anything here, but it seems like a good place to ask a question that just might be appropriate at the time.

My 97 Challenger has a hose feed-in nipple at the bottom by the jet pump, and also at the top by the exhaust fan for the engine bay. Instructions say I can use either to flush the engine.

So, if I open the top and feed the hose into the bottom, and turn on the engine on the hose, will any excess water come out the top, or will it try to bypass the engine and just flow out the top without going through the engine cooling passages?

I tend to keep the top closed and put the hose on the bottom until it comes out the tell-tale like on my XP, but I wonder if I can open the top and open the hose full blast safely...:confused::confused::confused:
 
Back flushing?....

Poindexter, .....look on the back of your ski, top right hand side of the pump area. You should have a plug or water outlet for back flushing your ski. The manual suggest you buy a quick connect fitting and just leave it on.

The procedures for backflushing are to start the ski, then turn on the water as soon as the motor is started. Flush for 3 minutes with a high idle, at about 3500 rpm. Then, turn the water off and shut down the engine. By this time, the TLCS (total loss cooling system) has lost all it's water.

If you have no back flush connection where I told you to look (which the manual says you do), then you would connect the flush out kit on the engines outlet. This is called, "backflushing"....With the water hose connected to that "t", after you start the motor and turn on the water, the excess water pressure will bleed outward into the jet pump. You do not have to worry about dumping to much water.

Like Scooper says, we have two back flush connections on our boats. I used the one on top of the hull so when I turned on the water, I didn't have to worry about the excess pressure. Well, now I have the quick connect attached to the lower one on the hull, and the top one capped. When I start the motor, I turn on the water slowly, watching my "tell-tale" stream till it's putting out the pressure I have just over idle.....

I would not connect the flush line to the inlet from the pump.

For those using ball valves, I'd use a brass valve and even then, they have a stainless ball. You'll need to remove that once a season if you ride in salt water due to marine growth and things like barannacles and small shells. This would be an area of restriction if left unchecked......:cheers:
 
hi seadoosnipe I just bought a 150 speedster gonna tow it very often, balve valve is a nice idea but do you know kind of automatic way like back water valve or a solenoid connected to the key switch... and were can i find parts....
 
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