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Test drive a 2001 Sportster today, what should I be checking? Concerned about water
- Thread starter Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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http://www.sea-doo.net/SHOPMANUALS/JETBOATS/2004-2005/bilingue_2004-2005/lmt2005-001_pour%20CD2004%20et%202005.pdf
This is a good link I just found for the differences between models.
This is a good link I just found for the differences between models.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Check the compression using compression gauge.
Decide if you want to fill the fuel tank, or empty it for winter. Put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank, wash the stabilizer down into fuel tank with clean fresh fuel.
Start engine then turn on flush water from house and fog engine through carburetors with fogging oil, don't run more than 3 minutes on hose, shorter time is better. Turn off hose water and then turn off engine within 30 seconds. NEVER run engine more than 30seconds without cooling water. Always turn off cooling water first, before turning off engine, always start engine first, before turning on cooling water. Follow this sequence so water doesn't flood the exhaust and back up into engine cylinders.
Obtain some pink recreational vehicle anti freeze for the engine freeze protection and some 90 weight(marine type preferred, GL-5) synthetic gear oil for the jet pump rear bearing, there my be water in the bearing housing that can freeze so it needs to be emptied and replenished by removing the main nozzle from the jet pump and the black plastic bearing cone to check for water, remove three metric Allen head screws and four bolts holding the main nozzle, disconnect reverse bucket and steering cables using 10mm socket and box-ended wrench.
Drain the contents (a small volume of oil) of jet pump bearing housing and check for water(oil/water milkshake). Re-install bearing cone and pressure check if water is found, I like to pressure check to confirm bearing housing is leak tight after installing the bearing cone.
Freeze protection:
Pinch the engine drain hose(using large hemostat). Through cylinder head water inlet hose, pour antifreeze into cylinder head using funnel and piece of hose to protect if there's some water in there(there is always a small amount of water). Remove hemostat pincher and allow water/antifreeze mixture to drain through engine drain hose.
Pour some antifreeze into aluminum water box through hose connection at water box valve (~ 1 cup is enuff), to keep small amount of water inside water box from freezing.
Start engine for a few seconds and blow remaining water out of exhaust system.
Remove spark plugs and pour about 1oz of 2 stroke oil into each cylinder, turn engine over by hand a few revolutions to distribute oil. Install spark plugs.
Stop and have a beer with a ham sandwich and chips of your choice.
Remove bilge drain plugs from behind boat, unscrew them and leave hanging so rainwater can exit in case of rain. A boat can sink (fill with water) while sitting on the trailer.
Remove battery take indoors if waiting for spring.
Spray protective oil like CRC fogging oil over motor and electrical harness to prevent moisture damage and corrosion.
Enjoy winter, read over the owners manual and service manual, order a few parts, go snow skiing if possible and hug the family dog daily.
Prepare to perform preventative maintenance checks and procedures in the meantime.
Maybe someone else can add to this list.
Decide if you want to fill the fuel tank, or empty it for winter. Put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank, wash the stabilizer down into fuel tank with clean fresh fuel.
Start engine then turn on flush water from house and fog engine through carburetors with fogging oil, don't run more than 3 minutes on hose, shorter time is better. Turn off hose water and then turn off engine within 30 seconds. NEVER run engine more than 30seconds without cooling water. Always turn off cooling water first, before turning off engine, always start engine first, before turning on cooling water. Follow this sequence so water doesn't flood the exhaust and back up into engine cylinders.
Obtain some pink recreational vehicle anti freeze for the engine freeze protection and some 90 weight(marine type preferred, GL-5) synthetic gear oil for the jet pump rear bearing, there my be water in the bearing housing that can freeze so it needs to be emptied and replenished by removing the main nozzle from the jet pump and the black plastic bearing cone to check for water, remove three metric Allen head screws and four bolts holding the main nozzle, disconnect reverse bucket and steering cables using 10mm socket and box-ended wrench.
Drain the contents (a small volume of oil) of jet pump bearing housing and check for water(oil/water milkshake). Re-install bearing cone and pressure check if water is found, I like to pressure check to confirm bearing housing is leak tight after installing the bearing cone.
Freeze protection:
Pinch the engine drain hose(using large hemostat). Through cylinder head water inlet hose, pour antifreeze into cylinder head using funnel and piece of hose to protect if there's some water in there(there is always a small amount of water). Remove hemostat pincher and allow water/antifreeze mixture to drain through engine drain hose.
Pour some antifreeze into aluminum water box through hose connection at water box valve (~ 1 cup is enuff), to keep small amount of water inside water box from freezing.
Start engine for a few seconds and blow remaining water out of exhaust system.
Remove spark plugs and pour about 1oz of 2 stroke oil into each cylinder, turn engine over by hand a few revolutions to distribute oil. Install spark plugs.
Stop and have a beer with a ham sandwich and chips of your choice.
Remove bilge drain plugs from behind boat, unscrew them and leave hanging so rainwater can exit in case of rain. A boat can sink (fill with water) while sitting on the trailer.
Remove battery take indoors if waiting for spring.
Spray protective oil like CRC fogging oil over motor and electrical harness to prevent moisture damage and corrosion.
Enjoy winter, read over the owners manual and service manual, order a few parts, go snow skiing if possible and hug the family dog daily.
Prepare to perform preventative maintenance checks and procedures in the meantime.
Maybe someone else can add to this list.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
This is great. I thought I will be waiting for the summer without anything to do with the boat.
It sounds like fun with a big learning curve.
Still remember how excited I was when I first time started a 30 nitro engine on my RC monster truck.
Now it scaled up lol.
The boat will be sitting in my garage. So I should be able to do some fixing or electronics upgrade...
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It sounds like fun with a big learning curve.
Still remember how excited I was when I first time started a 30 nitro engine on my RC monster truck.
Now it scaled up lol.
The boat will be sitting in my garage. So I should be able to do some fixing or electronics upgrade...
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
That's a very good link, thanks, I haven't seen it yet!
Price on both sounds high to me, not sure but sounds high to me.
I have a 2003 Sportster LE with no cosmetic damage and a brand new jet pump / driveline that I am considering selling, if these boats are bringing 5K plus its gone! I was thinking with all the work it was work $4-4500, one with no recent work 2500-3000 sounds right, have you checked NADA?
~B~
I have a 2003 Sportster LE with no cosmetic damage and a brand new jet pump / driveline that I am considering selling, if these boats are bringing 5K plus its gone! I was thinking with all the work it was work $4-4500, one with no recent work 2500-3000 sounds right, have you checked NADA?
~B~
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Maybe because it is canada. Not so many used boats available in the market. I hope it is $3000, then I won't even blink to take it while it is running on the water!
What is NADA?
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Ok picking up the 2001 tomorrow morning. Exciting!!!
Still puzzling How the water can get into the engine compartment when rinsing the boat.
But after the 3 minutes top speed rest drive it was dry. So not highly concerned.
Tomorrow is a good day. Planning to bring my family on board. :-D
Getting boating license tonight.
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Still puzzling How the water can get into the engine compartment when rinsing the boat.
But after the 3 minutes top speed rest drive it was dry. So not highly concerned.
Tomorrow is a good day. Planning to bring my family on board. :-D
Getting boating license tonight.
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USAF_Pride
Member
The water has to get to the drain plug in the back somehow. Once you start looking, you'll see the drain holes.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Ok. I feel better. At hardware store getting a hitch ball for the hitch on my wrangler.
There are straight one and 3 1/4" drop ones. Does the 3 1/4" matter a lot? I like the triball.
Anybody has a jeep wrangler and a sportster can let me know?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Some water will normally go into the bilge from around the ski locker door, the rubber gasket isn't a perfect seal. Remove bilge drain plugs while on trailer if rainwater can enter the passenger deck area, the locker door is liable to leak of course! Your plan to store indoors shouldn't be a problem but I wonder about having a full tank of fuel in that case.
Enjoy you're new boat!
Remove bilge drain plugs while on trailer if rainwater can enter the passenger deck area, the locker door is liable to leak of course! Your plan to store indoors shouldn't be a problem but I wonder about having a full tank of fuel in that case.Enjoy you're new boat!
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Good luck finding someone with the same configuration, however, I hesitate to provide input but I find a lower ball makes it easier while loading the boat on the trailer. I launch many boats during the day at the marina using a tractor, I drop the lift ball down onto the ramp to obtain a better angle.
USAF_Pride
Member
You want the trailer to be level when attached to your jeep. I would buy both and return the one that doesn't have the trailer as level as possible. My boat and landscape trailer requires two different heights. Probably better to have it higher than lower.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I just came home with a nice looking Tri ball which is a straight one. So could be too height then. There is auto parts store beside the seller's home.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Some water will normally go into the bilge from around the ski locker door, the rubber gasket isn't a perfect seal.
Enjoy you're new boat!
You know what? It is a funny feeling: more excited about having a boat then driving it:-D
I think it is a guy's thing.
I heard that the 2 strokes engine is pretty tough. I will be doing some checking follow your list first.
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You want a setup that has the trailer/boat as level as can be. This distributes the weight and puts the proper tongue weight on the vehicle (assuming the trailer is setup correctly). For going down the road this is important as it helps prolong trailer tire life and promotes safety.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
That is true, near level is good (best!). Too low, it may even drag on the ground! Definitely not too high! Boat can usually move back or forward on trailer to change center of gravity and I moved mine forward (moved winch stand) but I did this to support the transom on the bunks. Of course, the tongue gained some weight, tongue weight should be 10% of total (trailer+boat).
I don't know the position of the drawbar for a Jeep wrangler, maybe you can turn the drop drawbar upside down if the Wrangler drawbar is too low.
Also, the Wrangler is a short wheelbase, so it's more critical to have a proper load balance.
I don't know the position of the drawbar for a Jeep wrangler, maybe you can turn the drop drawbar upside down if the Wrangler drawbar is too low.
Also, the Wrangler is a short wheelbase, so it's more critical to have a proper load balance.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Scratches along the edge
As shown in the picture, there are some long scratches along the blue edge. on both sides.
Is there any way to fix it?
As shown in the picture, there are some long scratches along the blue edge. on both sides.
Is there any way to fix it?
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Silicon along between hull and blue edge
Also there is silicon fill all the way along the hull and the blue edge. I saw them when I looked from underneath. Looks like there was a gap (bigger at the bow, about 3/8"). Didn't like the silicon work the previous owner has done.
If I know the nature of the cause I maybe able to do a better work.
For example, the gap filled by silicon under the dash board caused by the installation of the CD player. I should be able to reopen it and refit them together.
See, the new seadoo newbie has started dreaming for all sorts of things LoL
Also there is silicon fill all the way along the hull and the blue edge. I saw them when I looked from underneath. Looks like there was a gap (bigger at the bow, about 3/8"). Didn't like the silicon work the previous owner has done.
If I know the nature of the cause I maybe able to do a better work.
For example, the gap filled by silicon under the dash board caused by the installation of the CD player. I should be able to reopen it and refit them together.
See, the new seadoo newbie has started dreaming for all sorts of things LoL
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Hard to see but if the scratches are not deep, not cut through the gel coat (Gel Coat is normally ~ 0.02" thick)
Depth dependent (min to max):
Swirl remover wax(for smudges, light surface scratches)
Cutting compound (heavy oxidation, light scratches)
1200grit wet sanding (deep scratches)
Gel coat repair kit (Deep cut through gel coat)
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Those on the blue edge were caused by rubbing the dock or garage wall. The blue color is gone, but doesn't seems like loosing material.
How to match the color? Do they have all kinds of color I can choose from?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Seadoo newbie, hahahaha!
The blue edge with silicone is the vinyl rub rail? Factory uses silicone to make a waterproof seal, the top and bottom halves of deck and hull seam is under the rub rail. Silicone doesn't adhere well to anything IMO, camel snot. Ignore if it's not a homeowner repair of fiberglass.
Clean with acetone to remove wax, oil, or camel snot.
In the case of a fiberglass crack or scratch, Marine-Tex epoxy can fill gaps, grind a V-notch first. Some kind of epoxy, two part epoxy resin mixed with fine sawdust to make adjustable viscosity paste. Cover with wax paper to make smooth. Or, gel-coat repair kit for surface damage. Sometime for large area finish coats I use white epoxy appliance spray paint, entire boat can be repainted using Awlgrip two part paint, it's good stuff.
For crack all the way through, you can make epoxy paste (add sawdust to thicken) and/or use fiberglass cloth soaked in epoxy resin on the inside of the repair. Hardwood blocks glued on inside with epoxy can add strength.
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Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
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