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Test drive a 2001 Sportster today, what should I be checking? Concerned about water

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Bonmotwang

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I looked at the boat in the garage. Overall all right. Seats are all good. I saw a lot of water (1-2 inches) in side the ski storage and engine area. The owner said he rinses the boat every time finish boating. That is why the water is there. I hope it is true.
He bought the boat about 2 years ago. Now wife is pregnant, due nov. Trying to get rid go the boat to have more space in his single garage. Price is $6500.
There is a 18" long silicon fix for a crack near the control dash board area.

We will take it to the lake today. And I asked him to drain the water before we test.

Please give me some last minute advises for where to watch when I test it in the water.
My friend will test the boat with me. He owned a couple of out boarders. I am the first time boat buyer.

My plan is to store it in my garage and use it next year.

Thanks.

Paul
 
I have another option, 20 minutes more from where I live. Not big deal.
This one is a 2000 Seadoo Sportster LE 951cc Rotax motor. Original owner. show condition is very good. 80 hours.
The motor has been re-built once by a seadoo dealer, where the boat is serviced.
By general speaking, what does "re-built" mean? Is it good or problem indicator?
Price is $5700.
My gut feeling is telling me that this 2000 one may be the right one for me.

Need your suggestions.

Standing by waiting ...
 
I know nothing of either boat, but I have learned to trust my gut. Look at both boats and then go home and think about it. General rules apply when buying a boat:
1. Compression test, Compression test, Compression test, Compression test!!!!
2. Make sure the test drive is long enough that things are warmed up. If the seller is in a hurry, he is probably hiding a problem.
3. Open the engine compartment and listen to it at idle and while it is underway. Does anything sound out of place?
4. I think these boats have a carbon seal on the driveline, it may be "dripping" some water, but none should be rushing it.
5. People like to clean-up the engine compartment to hide leaks, etc. Run you hand under some parts and see if they come out clean.
6. Check out the hull and make sure there are no cracks, dents, etc. Light scratches are to be expected.
7. Bring a flashlight and check out the impellers. You should have no more than a dime spacing between the impeller and wear ring.
8. I like to meet people at their house to look over the boat. This gives me a chance to see how well they take care of their other things.
9. What receipts do they have? If the motor was rebuilt, there should be a detailed description. Call the dealer and verify the work.
10. Cavitation, shouldn't be happening (alright, some may happen when you gun it, but it should quickly go away).


Good luck. Take your time and the right boat for you will show up.
 
I looked at the boat in the garage. Overall all right. Seats are all good. I saw a lot of water (1-2 inches) in side the ski storage and engine area. The owner said he rinses the boat every time finish boating. That is why the water is there. I hope it is true.
He bought the boat about 2 years ago. Now wife is pregnant, due nov. Trying to get rid go the boat to have more space in his single garage. Price is $6500.
There is a 18" long silicon fix for a crack near the control dash board area.

We will take it to the lake today. And I asked him to drain the water before we test.

Please give me some last minute advises for where to watch when I test it in the water.
My friend will test the boat with me. He owned a couple of out boarders. I am the first time boat buyer.

My plan is to store it in my garage and use it next year.

Thanks.

Paul

Do the sea trial, the boat should not leak if all the ride plate and intake grate nuts have been sealed good.
 
Thanks USAF_Pride. I will look for a marina to do a compression test then. Do I need a seadoo dealer to do it? I guess this is a small standard check?
 
Compression test ad check ride.

30 minutes minimum with the test ride. That is normally enough time for an issue to present it self.

Slow, fast, out of the hole, ect ect.
 
Thanks USAF_Pride. I will look for a marina to do a compression test then. Do I need a seadoo dealer to do it? I guess this is a small standard check?

You can do a compression test yourself.
1. Get yourself a decent compression tester that threads into the spark plug hole
2. Cold Engine
3. Remove all spark plugs
4. throttle wide open
5. crank the motor over until the gauge peaks
 
I don't know which model 2001 you're describing, I have the 2001 Sprotster LE with carbureted Rotax 951.

The compression on my motor is 137psi, for your reference. I think 130psi should be the lower limit.

Are the two boats you're looking at the same, different year?

What are you anticipating using the boat for? The reason I ask is b/c the Sportster LE is a short hull, and the 951 is an adequate power but it's not overpowered and short hulls tend to ride rougher.

I wanted a small boat, which is why I bought mine, it had never been serviced and needed minor odds and ends done, the fuel level sender in the fuel tank didn't work and the bow navigation light, speedometer pick-up sensor, and a few other odds and ends. The carburetors needed rebuilding too.

If it's been run in saltwater, look over the trailer carefully, it must be a galvanized trailer otherwise salt will destroy it. Salt can also cause lots of corrosion damage to the engine and jet drive, so beware.

In general, I like my boat and intend on keeping it, I'm not so sure the 951 in a 10yr+ old boat is a good choice though if you have no experience working on boats and marine engines. The power is adequate, I CAN get up on a slalom ski but it's not one of the stronger boats for slalom, it's plenty for pulling a wake board or tube though.

My top speed was 45mph at 6500RPM on the speedo until recently. I sucked up a rock off the shallow bottom, now ~42mph is tops so I'm going to blueprint my jet pump over the winter or early spring.

I would stay away from the 951DI and stick with the carbed motor instead, unless you get a very good deal on the boat or are willing to sink in at least a couple thousand more they can be expensive to repair. Be prepared to perform some work and spend some $$ on a seadoo boat of this age, unless you're certain the previous owner has taken care of the maintenance properly, there are a number of things that should be done religiously periodically and every season.

I paid $4800 for mine last August, the engine was good and the cosmetic condition was good-> excellent with below "normal" wear and tear, I have no idea how many hours of use are on it but doesn't seem like much.

Water test and engine compression test are a minimum unless the price is under $3000, a motor replacement and jet pump rebuild can easily run you $2,000 just in parts for the carbureted model and on up from there if it's the DI direct injected 951.

The four strok engines will last longer, if they're well taken care of and haven't been abused, more expensive to repair though.

BOAT = Bring On Another Thousand! :)
 
Thanks. Both boat are same model, different year. Both not DI engine. Always in the lake. I will test the 2001 this afternoon with my buddy.
The 2000 one has better looking, shininger. :-). I am planning to test drive it tomorrow.
 
You can do a compression test yourself.
1. Get yourself a decent compression tester that threads into the spark plug hole
2. Cold Engine
3. Remove all spark plugs
4. throttle wide open
5. crank the motor over until the gauge peaks
Is it a tools I can get from a hardware store?
 
Tested the boat last night. Very short trip at top speed for about 3 minutes. The seller was very concerned about his personal safety to have a stranger on his boat. At the end. He let me in while he is driving.

The RPM is about 6500.
The top speed is about 35MPH.
The idle RPM is about 2500.
Was not ready for the compression test at the time.

When we were on the water, the boat acted normal to me.

The seller dropped the price, so I am going to close the deal today if I have time.

If there is any warning for me please let me know. Just to make sure I have enough $ in the pocket, and no big surprise to the wife.

Summer is over, now cannot wait for the next one:-D






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The top speed can be changed by the water condition and how many people on the boat, if the engine and everything runs normal, you should take it home.
 
Tested the boat last night. Very short trip at top speed for about 3 minutes. The seller was very concerned about his personal safety to have a stranger on his boat. At the end. He let me in while he is driving.

The RPM is about 6500.
The top speed is about 35MPH.
The idle RPM is about 2500.
Was not ready for the compression test at the time.

When we were on the water, the boat acted normal to me.

The seller dropped the price, so I am going to close the deal today if I have time.

If there is any warning for me please let me know. Just to make sure I have enough $ in the pocket, and no big surprise to the wife.

Summer is over, now cannot wait for the next one:-D






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You didn't specify if top speed was measured by GPS or dreamometer, my dreamometer has never shown greater than 45MPH, now shows ~42MPH max at 500, so sounds like that pump might need some work, did you get a look at the impeller from underneath?

Not a big deal, doing some pump work, they all will need some attention at this age.

I always sem to go for beauty, usually means it was well taken care of and not abandoned. Price does count though, but I don't like seeing cracked fiberglass, did something fall on the boat or was it in an accident?

How much more is the pretty boat?
 
Tested the boat last night. Very short trip at top speed for about 3 minutes. The seller was very concerned about his personal safety to have a stranger on his boat. At the end. He let me in while he is driving.

The RPM is about 6500.
The top speed is about 35MPH.
The idle RPM is about 2500.
Was not ready for the compression test at the time.

When we were on the water, the boat acted normal to me.

The seller dropped the price, so I am going to close the deal today if I have time.

If there is any warning for me please let me know. Just to make sure I have enough $ in the pocket, and no big surprise to the wife.

Summer is over, now cannot wait for the next one:-D






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

His personal safety?!?! Did you have it in the water long enough to even warm up? Maybe I am a little cynical, but if someone doesn't want you to test what you are buying from them, I would get nervous. Especially with him "lowering" his price.

If you where purchasing an automobile, would you purchase the automobile with the same type of checking out you did on the boat?
 
You didn't specify if top speed was measured by GPS or dreamometer, my dreamometer has never shown greater than 45MPH, now shows ~42MPH max at 500, so sounds like that pump might need some work, did you get a look at the impeller from underneath?

Not a big deal, doing some pump work, they all will need some attention at this age.

I always sem to go for beauty, usually means it was well taken care of and not abandoned. Price does count though, but I don't like seeing cracked fiberglass, did something fall on the boat or was it in an accident?

How much more is the pretty boat?

The pretty one (2000 model) is $5700.
This one (2001) I have tested is now $5300 after I offered $5000.

The speed was in the speedometer built in.
I did look into the impeller using my flashlight. Looks clean to me. Not super smooth but no debris hanging for sure.

So you think I still need to check out the 2000 model and test drive it?
I could arrange the water test in the next a few days.


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His personal safety?!?! Did you have it in the water long enough to even warm up? Maybe I am a little cynical, but if someone doesn't want you to test what you are buying from them, I would get nervous. Especially with him "lowering" his price.

If you where purchasing an automobile, would you purchase the automobile with the same type of checking out you did on the boat?

There was a man got killed in a kijiji transaction a few month ago in a nearby city. So he was concerned :-D.
No we didn't have long enough time to have it heat up. It was a 3-5 minutes ride.

To be honest. I can only go by "looking" instead of "testing". I am a first time boat buyer, jetskiied a few times. Just can not act like you guys with all kinds on hand experience. Wish I have a friend like you guys then things would more obvious :-D

But you guys are great. Even I don't have seadoo friend. But I don't feel alone with this forum.

Thanks everyone.


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The pretty one (2000 model) is $5700.
This one (2001) I have tested is now $5300 after I offered $5000.

The speed was in the speedometer built in.
I did look into the impeller using my flashlight. Looks clean to me. Not super smooth but no debris hanging for sure.

So you think I still need to check out the 2000 model and test drive it?
I could arrange the water test in the next a few days.


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I'd check out the pretty one too, I'm not sure if there were or weren't any changes between those two years but cracked fiberglass just bugs me to no end. Unless it's just crazing, like the gel coat only is cracked.

Seomtime these boats can get grounded hard by hitting a snad bar or something, and the hulls can split, then it's a chore to glue them back together, so I'm wondering if that's what caused the crack. They can crack too on the upper deck if they hit the dock too hard by inexperienced driver, jet boats aren't the easiest boat to learn how to drive on but you'll get the hang of it after about 10hours you should be getting pretty good.

Just read through both the owners manual and service manuals for a whole host of tips that will help with the learning curve, in case you're a beginner.

I prefer cosmetics over mechanicals, probably b/c I do all my own mechanical work, and to me it indicates the boat is better taken care of or used less and kept out of the weather.

Not sure if the 951 motor had any changes between those years, I think the major changes(improvements) were already complete by 2000. If the motor has 150psi of compression or it's painted white, no silver, the first generation of 951's were painted white and then later they realized compression was too high(detonation prone), they also began painting them silver with the lower compression ~135psi

So yeah, price is really about the same for both boats($300 gets eaten quickly with just a jet pump rebuild), but one of them is better cosmetically and the drivetrain on both run well then I'd go for beauty over age, all else equal.

Who knows, the 2000 might plane out ar 42mph on the dreamometer, closer to where it should be. The dreamometers aren't very accurate though, so check everything, bilge blower, tachometer, fuel gauge, bilge pump (listen if it runs, they're quiet), bow and stern navigation lights, look into jet pump, both ends, check controls (throttle, steering,reverse/forward shifter) to make sure they operate smoothly, else might need a new steering cable or something.

I think you can plan on haveing to do some kind of work on one of these boats, there's usually something that not working or maintenance precedure that needs doing.

Check the color of the two-stroke oil in the tank, the correct BRP oil is clearish/yellow or now this year, red color, not blue or green. Ask him to show you which oil he's using, these boats need BRP XPS-2 Synthetic, most other cheap outboard oils don't have the correct additive package. Grab a compression gauge, or plan on replacing motor is it's not running strong, this motor is one of the cheapest to replace, so it's got that going in it's favor.
 
but cracked fiberglass just bugs me to no end. .

I think I didn't make myself clear. The crack is not in the fiberglass of the hull. It is between two parts under those 3 meters. Looks like to me somehow they opened, but couldn't get put back as the manufacturer did. I should have taken a picture of it to show you.
 
I'd check out the pretty one too, I'm not sure if there were or weren't any changes between those two years but cracked fiberglass just bugs me to no end. Unless it's just crazing, like the gel coat only is cracked.

Seomtime these boats can get grounded hard by hitting a snad bar or something, and the hulls can split, then it's a chore to glue them back together, so I'm wondering if that's what caused the crack. They can crack too on the upper deck if they hit the dock too hard by inexperienced driver, jet boats aren't the easiest boat to learn how to drive on but you'll get the hang of it after about 10hours you should be getting pretty good.

Just read through both the owners manual and service manuals for a whole host of tips that will help with the learning curve, in case you're a beginner.

I prefer cosmetics over mechanicals, probably b/c I do all my own mechanical work, and to me it indicates the boat is better taken care of or used less and kept out of the weather.

Not sure if the 951 motor had any changes between those years, I think the major changes(improvements) were already complete by 2000. If the motor has 150psi of compression or it's painted white, no silver, the first generation of 951's were painted white and then later they realized compression was too high(detonation prone), they also began painting them silver with the lower compression ~135psi

So yeah, price is really about the same for both boats($300 gets eaten quickly with just a jet pump rebuild), but one of them is better cosmetically and the drivetrain on both run well then I'd go for beauty over age, all else equal.

Who knows, the 2000 might plane out ar 42mph on the dreamometer, closer to where it should be. The dreamometers aren't very accurate though, so check everything, bilge blower, tachometer, fuel gauge, bilge pump (listen if it runs, they're quiet), bow and stern navigation lights, look into jet pump, both ends, check controls (throttle, steering,reverse/forward shifter) to make sure they operate smoothly, else might need a new steering cable or something.

I think you can plan on haveing to do some kind of work on one of these boats, there's usually something that not working or maintenance precedure that needs doing.

Check the color of the two-stroke oil in the tank, the correct BRP oil is clearish/yellow or now this year, red color, not blue or green. Ask him to show you which oil he's using, these boats need BRP XPS-2 Synthetic, most other cheap outboard oils don't have the correct additive package. Grab a compression gauge, or plan on replacing motor is it's not running strong, this motor is one of the cheapest to replace, so it's got that going in it's favor.

From everything you are saying, if the 2000 model looks much better cosmetically and runs well on the water, I should get the 2000 model then, since both may need some work done anyway.

I will schedule the 2000 model check asap. Didn't want to have the 2001 owner's offer hanging too long. He is a nice guy, wife pregnant due Nov, need room in his single garage with the new baby girl coming.
 
I like the bimini top if it's installed correctly, and I see one of them has a painted trailer.

I prefer a galvanized trailer over a painted one of course, and sometimes it's nice to have a bimini top on days when the sun is strong and you want to lounge around in the boat, I don't have a bimini and probably won't buy one but I have to search out shade under a tree on days when the sun is high and it's hot.

Both boats look good in the pics, I see one has speakers. Wondering if the cracked glass has something to do with mounting the stereo, weakened in a stress area?

Hard to say, about the crack, it mat not be anything to judge or a game changer.

Bottom of both in good shape, no gouges through the gel coat?
 
Yes the Bimini is about $500 there.

On the 2001, there are 3 locations where the hull got hit on a hard object. But no deeper than 3/16", no bigger than 1" diameter.

Understandable for a 10+ old boat and meant to be a adult's toy :-D. But like you have said they are indicators for how has the toy been taken care of. Just like my wrangler, my third son :-D


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Yes the Bimini is about $500 there.

On the 2001, there are 3 locations where the hull got hit on a hard object. But no deeper than 3/16", no bigger than 1" diameter.

Understandable for a 10+ old boat and meant to be a adult's toy :-D. But like you have said they are indicators for how has the toy been taken care of. Just like my wrangler, my third son :-D


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Marine-Tex White epoxy mix matches the white gel coat well to fill hull gouges after they dry out from water soaking, sand gouge to make good adhesion then spread epoxy smooth with old plastic credit card and lay wax paper over top to make a mirror finish.
 
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