Supercharger: What'd I Do Wrong?

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Arkie Bob

Arkie Bob

Active Member
Before I realized the rebuild services were so reasonable I'd already bought a rebuild kit with specialty tools. Remove, rebuild, replace seemed straightforward enough, just pretty detailed. Got it together, clutch slip torque well within specs, and after a couple unrelated issues, (dead battery, loose exhaust clamp) it was running smoother, more responsive than last year when I bought it.

Then this weekend I was doing some of the 20 year old's foolishness, jumping wakes, and after going airborne and catching air it sounded like I'd jumped another wake and over revved. Lost RPM down to 6K max but smooth running, no missing, perfect idle. So, sure enough today when I pulled the intake air hose from supercharger the vane is almost freespinning, almost no resistance. Obviously something has loosened off allowing clutch washers to loose friction, what should I look for when I get that one pain in the azz torque screw out and actually get it in hand?

Thanks
 
Well, the same torx head is on rear brake wheel cylinders for about 10 years of GM front wheel drive mid-grade. I've owned a proper wrench for years. Three complete Snap-On tool boxes were at the shop, 100 miles away from the lake.

My guess? The nut holding clutch washers has backed off. I was simply asking experienced techs what to expect. Too much to ask, I guess,,,,,,
 
The supercharger is a simple stupid thing but I have seen a few wrongly assembled, mainly washers wrongly positioned relative to each other and just slapping a bit of cheapest-grease- they find when assembling it and not torquing according specifications. You checked the clutch slip torque to be correct so my best bet is no grease or wrong grease used?

Just take it out and open it up - and double check everything with the instruction paper from the Seadoo kit, that is very detailed. What grease did you use on the clutch washers? The specified Klueber Topas?
 
Arkie Bob said:
My guess? The nut holding clutch washers has backed off. I was simply asking experienced techs what to expect.
Click to expand...
Nut backed off. Spring washers not set to proper slip. Spring washers lost too much hold. Clutch failure. Gear failure. Bearing failure. Acorn nut backed off. Shaft snapped. I think that about covers the possibilities, none of which are known until you pull the supercharger.

Arkie Bob said:
Too much to ask, I guess,,,,,,
Click to expand...

1559052083229.png
 
Arkie Bob said:
Well, the same torx head is on rear brake wheel cylinders for about 10 years of GM front wheel drive mid-grade. I've owned a proper wrench for years. Three complete Snap-On tool boxes were at the shop, 100 miles away from the lake.

My guess? The nut holding clutch washers has backed off. I was simply asking experienced techs what to expect. Too much to ask, I guess,,,,,,
Click to expand...

JUst take it off already.

Chester
 
Rikky, small tub of grease was included with kit.

Chester, just as soon as I get the opportunity to drive the 85+ miles to it's location.

JoeZ I did check slip value with a torque wrench while still on the bench. Currently with intake hose off I can feel slight amount of resistance when turning vane, but smooth as silk.

I can assure yall nobody wants it off as bad as me.
 
Arkie Bob said:
Before I realized the rebuild services were so reasonable I'd already bought a rebuild kit with specialty tools. Remove, rebuild, replace seemed straightforward enough, just pretty detailed. Got it together, clutch slip torque well within specs, and after a couple unrelated issues, (dead battery, loose exhaust clamp) it was running smoother, more responsive than last year when I bought it.

Then this weekend I was doing some of the 20 year old's foolishness, jumping wakes, and after going airborne and catching air it sounded like I'd jumped another wake and over revved. Lost RPM down to 6K max but smooth running, no missing, perfect idle. So, sure enough today when I pulled the intake air hose from supercharger the vane is almost freespinning, almost no resistance. Obviously something has loosened off allowing clutch washers to loose friction, what should I look for when I get that one pain in the azz torque screw out and actually get it in hand?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Send it to PWC Muscle......
 
OH WOE IS ME!!! Finally got it removed yesterday, should have known not to expect anything easy (or cheap) my attempt to rebuild was a disaster. The bearing nearest gear drive has swarmed, releasing debris/bearings into the engine. Is this going to require teardown to clean all that crap out, or will it be trapped pre oil filter?
While the engine continued to run smoothly without noise I rode it back to the marina, Approximately 3miles, at reduced speed.
 
Wow, what sh_tty luck. I wonder if the bearing was defective or if it was something in the way you put it all back together? Try posting on the green hulk site also - they've seen a lot of trashed superchargers on there.
 
Sorry to hear. I am afraid you will need to take out the engine and open it up again. You are not the first one. Driving it like this is just sitting on a ticking bomb.
 
I guess I'm confused though and that's okay b/c I'm used to the lost puppy feeling. I'm not sure how bearing failure allows the SC impeller to spin freely, it's difficult to imagine unless maintaining clutch pressure relies on bearing preload, which in itself seems odd.
 
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