How do I fix this? *Gestures with arms open wide*, Picture Orgasm.

[100guard]

... Amazon.com

...ultra black RTV (automotive)...

I fill the pump with oil while I have it level on the work bench, just to make it easier looking into the fill plug for oil level...
tighten your pump bolts in a X pattern, hand tighten first to seat the pump in the transom with a new neoprene seal, then torque to proper number...

seadoo synthetic grease on the driveshaft splines and in the impeller splines, don`t fill it , just give it a good coating.
or any good water proof grease will do..

You're awesome. I've started a quick list of things to keep in mind, so I've added your items on it!

Amazon is good but S&H is brutal unless it's a big purchase to get 'free'. I lucked out and found all the 518 & 592 loctites on Ebay with nominal S&H so I'm waiting on a confirmation. It won't be here for THIS round of rebuild., but next I will be set.

...
100gaurd, sorry for the thread jackl!

no worries.

Use teflon tape on the plug for the cone available at any hardware store--no need for a fancy sealant or even pipe dope from Home Depot or Lowes if you have them north of the border. And if your looking for the 518 to put on the cone--don't bother the o-ring will more than seal it up if it's not messed up. Personally, if you drained the oil and it looked like oil and not like a milkshake your good to go--no leaks. I've had my cones off my 99 every year---still using the same o-ring from 99. Keep it simple.

is the teflon tape like plumbers tape? I just wrap the screw? Can I similarly use it to wrap the nozzle of my pop-off tester?

I am putting up the pics of the oil that came out. Does it look okay? or milkshakey?

The same oring???? HOLY CRAPPOLA!

I'm new and very wet behind the ears, so I'm gonna over do it just till I get really comfortable. Sealant and everything . I'm paranoid I know.

 

[RFoster130]

I use black rtv on the o ring and plug. I do however change the o ring every other year. Why let a $4 part trash a $500 pump. Also blue Loc tite on the cone bolts.

 

[racerxxx]

Yes plumbers tape, and for the pressure tester too. The oil looks a bit grey, should be blackish in color--with no other colors. A pressure test will determine a leak, perhaps a compromised seal. FOllow the book for sure until your comfortable.

 

[100guard]

Got my neoprene seal today & the WR.

I can't believe how FRIGGIN SMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOTH that baby is.

It looks 99.999999999999% Identical to the OEM (I'm assuming it was OEM) one that was prior. Same rubber lip on the top. I thought it would've taken a LOT more effort, but the guy banged it in without too much effort. Are you not supposed to bang them in? LOL.

It's been painfully cold these days, so I'm going to simmer on putting things back together this week-end.

Finalizing a loctite extravaganza purchase from ebay shortly, bought a RTV thing from Canadian Tire that should tie me over.

Got my PopOff contraption going. Just have to figure out how to attach it to the cone hole. I should tap and die the cone to a proper threading, then find a matching threaded brass piece to connect to the tubing. That way I won't risk damaging the threading that's in there. I'm guessing I'll just plumber tape a conical air compressor piece and hold it in place. for 10psi I doubt I'll not be able to hold it in place. We'll see, hehe.

 

[100guard]

After a very slow, and 'I'm gonna take my damn sweet time preparing my speakers and musaaak first' prep., I finally cleaned and recleaned and super cleaned the o ring, and surfaces.

Applied that RTV to the o-ring (please don't tell me that's bad LOL), and closed the cone, praying the oring stays put.

Spent 15mins figuring out how to work this digital torque thingy, and went to school.

LED & Beeps as you get close to your (up to 10preset values, unit changeable) setting.


4Nm on the cone. Did that.

Then filled oil.

 

[100guard]

Pressure test: Took me a long while to figure out what to do (I was missing two pieces, lazy to track them down), but I finally figured out a way. Hopefully it's a valid method. Held the 10psi. I was happy. Here's my 2 gallon compressor which I bought for about a years worth of computer air dusters ($30), essentially...ONLY to clean my computers out without worrying about needing to buy new bottles of air haha. Finally I can use it for something else.


(Note the teflon tape, as rcmd'd by racerxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) Thank you!

Put some rtv on the screw, installed, and put some more around the top of the screw just 1-2mm edging for extra seal.

Cleaned up as it got late., 2nd last night to order pizzas from Dominos with their 50% off coupon, so I wanted to get one ordered lickitysplit! This was from last night.

Closed the garage...only to realize I locked the key inside LOL. Tomorrow Either I pick the lock, or break that window at the back...Doh!

Once I'm in, (now that I know how to use the torque thingy), everything should go back on in no time.

Just curious which direction I put the neoprene seal on. Which side do I stick it on? Does it matter I guess?

 

[racerxxx]

Stick it to the boat side not the pump side. Good job on the pressure tester!

 

[100guard]

JeT Pump is on. Taking a breather (LOL)...yes this stuff is difficult for a first-timer.


This pic is how much distance from where those two edges 'end up' abutting on a tighted jet pump housing, so I was wondering if the splines weren't matched up-causing it to stick out so far-got me concerned. Turns out, it's just from the spongy neoprene seal pushing it out. Yay!

I was really concerned that I was gonna put it on and the splines wouldn't match up., so I did it with 2 bolts first (had the grease from the order guy already spluuudged inside the impeller boot), no locker, just to make sure the impeller could spin (translation, it is seated properly). Once confirmed it was spinning fine, I undid, and put them back on with the threadlocker (TL) and krisskrossed them. Wasn't sure how much TL to put, so I dripped a bout 3 threads worth thickenss, and then put the same amount on the interior of the bolt.

I LOVE this digital torque converter. Just preset all my strengths, and don't even need to look at it. It just beeps as I get close.

Next venturi & reverse assembly. I took it all off in one piece. Is that fine? Do I need to recheck alignment of steering or can I just do it in one shot. IE 8 more bolts, and I'm done?

+ put on the steering cable bolt and reverse cable bolt?


This is the stash that I got when I bought the seadoo. I'm going to change out the spark plugs once I'm done this as well.

darn it. Started raining.

Tomorrow first thing I'll start the motor and hopefully no issues. The manual says to do that...and if tight, unloosen bolts 1 turn, Man I hate the trouble shooting part of this lol. Just want to take apart, then assemble and WOT it!. If good., then put the reverse gate on.

 

[100guard]

So weather is cloudy but warm

Got my music set up.

Started putting things back together. Managed a dummy assistant to hold one venturi while I install the other. Quite tedious if alone for a first timer.

I should've taken a pic with the torque converter.
Just as I tightened the third bolt, this happened. I was like, oh yeah...great. Now what.




Now keep in mind that I was going to replace this jet pump anyway so it's not all that bad...I just hadn't budgeted to do it till coming season....Now my choices are, go nice and slow for a few more times (if you think it's fine to do it), or put it away from now, and start hunting down new housing from.

I'm really furious because I'm wondering if this torque converter thingy is at fault. It seemed to work great the first few times, but then it seems like as you're tightening, it lowers the tension you get up to and so you inadvertently end up over torquing. What the heck!!!?? I'm going back to the store to see what's up, or might get another torque converter to see what torques I've gotten at.

So just to clarify, the way it works is you can set a max torque, and it'll beep slow to solid tone as it approaches 50%, 60%, etc etc., so it's not like in half a second you can bypass the max torque, well unless you're tightening, stupid fast. Being a serious beginner, I was going quite controlled and slow so I clearly hear the tones-as the screen rotates so you can't always see the numbers.

Straight up:
1-With it assembled as it (and knowing the unknown torqueage...assume a +/- of 5N/m's on the venturi 8 bolts, and the steering ~4 and reverse cable bolt of 2.7 N.m's I have more confidence in those being correct) Can I go slow...can I got fast with only 3 points of contact on that venturi? I didn't have any of this issue (afaik) with the jet pump 4 bolts., The torque was straight, progressed beeps from slow to solid, and I stopped right away.
2-Any fix? I can somehow cake on some RTV and see if I can make a gasket (new term I learned)...but not sure how I'd be creating that anaerobic surrounding for it to cure? Is there some plastic to plastic glue that I can build up a little seal? . Darn it to hell, haha.

 

[100guard]

I bought some JB Weld Marine., has tensile strength of 3600psi lol., I'll remove the whole contraption...AGAIN., put a C - Clamp on the crack loop, and insert some of the mix., then close it tight as I can. That should do fine heh?

That pushes our water day back 2 days .

[edit], didn't need to remove everything. Just opened that one bolt., checked that the bolt was seated properly (it was) and mixed up the JB Weld. Below.

 

[100guard]

dammit. forgot to pic the C-Clamp assembly





I noticed that my two jet pumps house those nuts differently.

This one allows the nuts to recess completely down (or close to).

This is not the cracked one, another loop on it.

The other one doesn't. The nut stays way above, there's only room for the cylindrical portion to drop down. Guess a different jet pump design? Odd.

 

[Chico]

Have it plastic welded with a zip tie

 

[100guard]

C-CLamped to the max.



Results of the JB Weld. So much for a 'tensile strength of 3690psi' LOL. I can only guess that perhaps;
a-this isn't the optimal product to use..doubtful
b-not enough time to cure? 4hrs-15hrs., I waited 18.
c-I didn't put enough product. I only put it on the surface, and tried to push down in the crack a bit. The venturi was installed, so maybe what I should do is fully take off venturi, which reveals the inner shell of that loop. Then with it open., PACK in that whole area with this compound to cure. That should be enough to hold it together?



[edit]From what I youtubed on zip tie welds., they're more for bumpers where there isn't as much pressure exerted on the seam as with this bolt/nut part. In my zero experience...I'm wondering if I should just do as I mention in 'c'?

On a plus, I pipecleanered the hatch water collecting lip HOLE....finally it drains nicely..and is clean. Plus I cleaned the under hatch there jet pump area...was dirty.

And I finally used up the last four freebie spark plugs that the preivous owner had given me with the sale .

 

[RFoster130]

Welding or gluing that isnt going to cut it. You need to replace that pump.

 

[100guard]

How useable is it as is?

Can I do any semblance of speed without too much issue? or just barely on plane?


When you experts do this kinda stuff....how specific are you on torque? Do you actually measure it or not. If you don't measure with a device, but you're still experienced enough to KNOW what torque you're at by experience. I'm still kinda pissed and need to take this torque thing back for a a refund if not some extra dough for the damage...yeah right. Good luck with that! I was NOWHERE NEAR 21N.m (or whatever those venturi bolts are to be) and this happened. I'm SO.....tickled...heh.

as I said, I was intending on replacing it anyway next season or so....just not NOW.Bah Humbug.

 

[RFoster130]

How useable is it as is?

Ummm....its not useable. I wouldnt use it anyway. I dont use a torque wrench on the pump, and im by no means a "pro". Ive only had mine off twice. Im guessing it either wasnt on straight and got in a bind, or the seal made the amount of torque needed different. They dont have a seal from the factory, so whatever the shop manuals says is irrelevant now.

 

[Guest_User]

Welding or gluing that isnt going to cut it. You need to replace that pump.

Ditto!

How useable is it as is?

Can I do any semblance of speed without too much issue? or just barely on plane?


When you experts do this kinda stuff....how specific are you on torque? Do you actually measure it or not. If you don't measure with a device, but you're still experienced enough to KNOW what torque you're at by experience. I'm still kinda pissed and need to take this torque thing back for a a refund if not some extra dough for the damage...yeah right. Good luck with that! I was NOWHERE NEAR 21N.m (or whatever those venturi bolts are to be) and this happened. I'm SO.....tickled...heh.

as I said, I was intending on replacing it anyway next season or so....just not NOW.Bah Humbug.

well not an expert, but I always torque all fasteners to spec.
I`m pretty sure you can buy a complete pump assembled from SBT for decent $$$, and just install your impeller.

if your buying used pump off of flea bay, just make sure it is a good pump, preferably fresh water. and you`ll need to service it again.
problem with used is, you don`t know the hours/condition of bearings and seals until it is in your hand...

good luck, hope you get this sorted...
I like the click type torque wrenchs.
I use Snap-On for high load fasteners and larger bolts.
and use Craftsman 3/8, inch pound and foot pound wrenches on the lighter stuff...

 

[100guard]

Your pump looks like it was over tightened more than once and pulled the Brass insert into the pump mounting ear.

'pump mounting ear'....and you call yourself not an expert. That's about as perfect a term as any I could think of lol. You're an expert in my eyes.

Yeah, as I mentioned all four of them are recessed down on that pump....really weird, cuz the NUT has a huge rectangle that sits above the cylinder portion that sinks down...so not like there's squeeze room to get in there. Either the pump does let them sit low...OR all four where over torqued (as you figured) and that cylinder area in the 'PMEar' was squeezed down allowing the entire thing to go down...shat!!

Well.you know I'm stubborn and will go slow anyway-I HAve to try it. After an absolutely GORGEOUS two months...almost like clockwork with our boat being dry docked, it's been cold...like PANTS cold haha. Realistically by mid sept it starts to get cold, and then Oct End/Nov we get our first frosts...so we have to milk it these last few weeks. I don't think I can afford to buy two new pumps now., two new stainless wear rings, two new impellers (this was my plan when I bought the boat) RIGHT now...

Is an alignment necessary when you put this back together or if you haven't adjusted anything and took it all off in one piece can you just get up and go? Steering & Rev cable.

How did the spark plugs look?

 

[100guard]

...They dont have a seal from the factory, so whatever the shop manuals says is irrelevant now.

ouch. that would've been good to know before I tried this...so would you say it is higher or lower?

 

[Guest_User]

ouch. that would've been good to know before I tried this...so would you say it is higher or lower?

I don`t know what to say about that...and that maybe true when new.
What did you see when you disassembled the pump? was there a seal there already? When working on these boats or ski`s you have to pay strict attention to what`s going on and why, and also look for any possible issues along the way.
The oem wear rings are directional and have that raised portion. I would say it depends on how clean and flat that surface is where the seal resides. if it looks like someone cleaned it with a wood chisel, then it would be wise to use the seal...
I`m never to old to learn anything. but I doubt that foam seal is the cause of the cracked pump housing.
why would there be OEM neoprene seals right from BRP?
It`s true that you don`t see it in the microfiche on some models tho...
all the pumps I`ve had apart had seals. they are soft and squish almost flat, so they really don`t take up any space at all. it is to ensure that no air gets pulled in before the pump causing cavitation.

out of the service manual for some models> 26, Neoprene Seal
Install a new neoprene seal. Remove backing paper
and install it on spacer ring.

in this picture, this is the T nut in the housing, and the square encapsulated nylok nut is the wrong nut for this application, but the parts catalog calls for it... this is just for comparison and seeing the brass T nut in it`s proper location...

spark plugs: kinda hard to tell. Plug chops are done at wot then pulling the dess lanyard in most cases, for tuning. for the most part the top set looks a little richer or heavier oil flow.
the lower set looks about right.
idling in long no wake zones can change the plug appearances, as does flushing on the hose making them look wet...
Install a new set, ride for a few hours and check again...

 

[racerxxx]

The sealant is Loctite 518, you could either use it or not or some silicone just a skim coat. They use it so that if there is an irregularity it would fill the "void" so that water may not exit the void---which would be highly unlikely for sure. The tightness of 21nm or 16 FT/LBS, can be tightend by hand---one hand. There is no need to crank down on them for sure. So if you were bearing down on it, that's what did it.

Pick up a 1/4" drive inch/lbs torque wrench for doing stuff under 20 ft/lbs (or up to 240 in/lbs) and a 1/2" drive for the heavy stuff 20 ft/lbs and up.

 

[100guard]

.... was there a seal there already?.....clean and flat that surface is where the seal resides. if it looks like someone cleaned it with a wood chisel, then it would be wise to use the seal......

no seal., clean surface. I agree, that can't be the cause. I'm sure it isn't. It has to be a defective torque converter that I was using .

in this picture, this is the T nut in the housing....

yeah that pic is great. I am shocked if it's possible that someone seriously over torqued and caused that nut to fall down below where it's sitting haha.

...The tightness of 21nm or 16 FT/LBS, can be tightend by hand---one hand. There is no need to crank down on them for sure. So if you were bearing down on it, that's what did it....

Nah man. no bearing down. It's a digital torque converter that sits between the extension / socket & the wrench. Seemed to work relaibly...but then I tested it a few times on random things, and it works kinda...kinda not. Argh...

It beeps and displays the torque as you're approaching the torque you've preset ( I preset all four strengths ), I wasn't anywhere NEAR 21, but it kept dropping, so I kept tightening.... Finally I had the sense to look on the side wondering WTF it wasn't tightening, and noticed that. Doh!

I'm meeting someone tomorrow to pick up a new click torque thing, so I'll go over what I've already done to make sure what's up.

NOT that this played in, but - I was confused at the beginning why the torque ranges where so askew for the lb/ft numbers, compared to the N.m readings which increase expectedly (which is why I set everything by N.m cuz it was uniform)....baffled...I finally realized that at lower torques it changes to INCHES. On a manual torque device, does it have a different scale for lb/in? and then changes into lb/ft? Or as you've said, you have to get two different ones for the two scales?

 

[Guest_User]

it doesnt take much to pull those brass T nuts into the housing. with a boat this old, no telling how many times the pumps were off. On our boat I had several T`s pulled into the pump housings, just not that bad and it did warrant replacement.
One thing you can be sure about is that you would have less chance of cavitation with the seal than without, so it`s not a bad thing.

keep in mind if you just buy a pump housing, it is empty and no bearings/seal/shaft inside...

My TW`s have 2 graduated scales Nm and lbft. and the smaller one has 2 scales as well Nm and lbin.

 

[RFoster130]

You can buy complete pump housings complete with new wear rings and refurbed impellers. I see em all the time for around $400. Is that what you had to do last year? Got a spare from then?

 

[Guest_User]

You can buy complete pump housings complete with new wear rings and refurbed impellers. I see em all the time for around $400. Is that what you had to do last year? Got a spare from then?

I tried to get a few in the beginning of the year, but SBT was out of stock. I wound up getting all new OEM components and assembling.

http://www.shopsbt.com/jet-ski-jet-pump-housings/78-101B-01K.html

http://www.shopsbt.com/jet-ski-jet-pump-housings/78-101-01K.html