Supercharger Symptoms ?

[door54]

Hi guys-

After reading the thread from yesterday re: supercharger rebuild, it was made crystal clear what the end result will be, if and when the SC or ceramics fail, and the need for preventative maintainance. But for members like myself who a couple of weeks ago had no idea WTH a ceramic washer was, It gets me to thinkin' twice about putting them on the water, let alone throwing some high rpms at 'em. Nervous Nelly an' all that!

One of the buzzwords that struck me was slipping or slippage as a symptom indicator. I assume that means an rpm spike to some degree without acceleration...maybe similar to cavitation? Are there any other warning signs the voices of experience can share with us.?

Obviously a SC going south on you at any rate of speed or location would FU your day and wallet.

 

[Michael211_2000]

No, this isn't that kind of slippage. If the supercharger air wheel starts slipping it won't make full boost pressure and the engine will lose some rpm's and horsepower as a result... and if not corrected, the slipping supercharger will burn itself up (it's not meant to slip full time, only when boost pressure is TOO high as a result of catching air jumping a wave and/or suddenly releasing the throttle from high rpm's).

The supercharger can start to slip for several reasons, the slip/clutch washers can be worn out and no longer holding the washer springs can lose their tension and allow the slip/clutch washers to slip continuously or the supercharger can be shedding bearings internally causing slack in the system (possibly wreaking havoc further down inside your engine as that's where failed supercharger parts go!).

To check your supercharger, take the intake air hose off and reach in with your fingers... try to turn the air wheel inside by fingertip. If you can turn it by fingertip without A LOT of effort, something's wrong! If you can actually spin it by fingertip then something's REALLY WRONG. But if it's stiff and very hard to turn by fingertip then it's ok that's how it's supposed to be (if you try really hard you can turn it by fingertip but it ain't easy).

So if it passes the fingertip test and isn't due a rebuild and doesn't contain those blasted ceramic slip/clutch washers then go ride it and enjoy the thing. There's LOTS of other things that can go wrong besides the supercharger, if you obsess about it too much you'll never enjoy it any... they aren't called "infernal machines" for nothing! LOL! ;-)

- Michael

 

[door54]

Thanks for the fingertip test tip, Jeez, say that three times fast.... I'll add that to my bag of tricks. Now, I thought I read more than once on this forum that the ceramics were not superceded with metal until '08. Did I read that wrong?

 

[Michael211_2000]

For an even simpler/quicker test, with the seats off and on the trailer (or a lift) start the engine put your hand around the supercharger to throttle body air hose and squeeze down on the hose while goosing the throttle a time or two... you should feel the air hose try to expand in your grip as the supercharger boosts the airflow. If you don't feel any change in the air hose, then by all means do the fingertip check next! Caution: Only run dry without waterflow to the exhaust system 15-30 seconds max... this should only take you like 10 seconds or so to test to see if the air hose is getting boost pressure or not, and only about 1/4 throttle goosing is necessary to feel the air hose expanding in your grip!

I am not sure if the 2007 year models still had the ceramic slip/clutch washers or not. If yours haven't been changed out and they are ceramics you REALLY aught to make plans to get that done ASAP. The odds of them failing aren't extremely high by any means, but if they do fail they fall apart inside the engine and then you have ceramic pieces and particles flowing about in the oil blocking passages and oil sump screens etc. and the only way to get them ALL out is to pull and crack open the engine case. Bad Mojo! :-(

- Michael

 

[door54]

Well this much I can say...Whatever is in there, is original, good or bad. Hmmm. Ok Michael, who is/are the resident guru(s) on this ceramic washer thing ? I'm thinking there has to be a mfg. start date when the change was made...Maybe a clue with the vehicle ID #? What do you think?

I'm going to go back and re-read that large thread you dug up for me yesterday re: 4Tec SCIC life span

Thanks for the continued help and input

 

[Michael211_2000]

Take your serial number, call the nearest SeaDoo dealership ask for Parts dept. tell them you'd like to know if your SeaDoo has the ceramic SC washers or not and give them your serial number they can look it up for you on their computer and let you know. That'd be the easiest fastest way to know for sure.

- MIchael

 

[Carguy89]

Take your serial number, call the nearest SeaDoo dealership ask for Parts dept. tell them you'd like to know if your SeaDoo has the ceramic SC washers or not and give them your serial number they can look it up for you on their computer and let you know. That'd be the easiest fastest way to know for sure.

- MIchael

08 RXTX started the good washers, and all SC skis in 09.

 

[door54]

On 7/13 a thread was submitted titled 'SeaDoo Ceramic Washer Class Action Settlement' Within the body of the thread is an imbedded http with all the info. In a nutshell, SC models from 04-07 purchased new in CALIF. qualify.