+1^ Sound advice then, still true now.
Turbo conversion is the way to go, a bit expensive to get started, for the novice. A kit will probably never pay for itself, but will save you a whole bunch of down time, and is much safer for the engine.
When the supercharger dies, it dumps metal trash into the oil pan. The oil pump picks it up and it is filtered clean, bearings and such should be fine right? Wrong, the oil pump dies from trash ingestion, and subsequently the rest of the engine from low oil volume or pressure.
What can you do? Insist on an oil pump replacement if the supercharger ever fails. Changing the oil will tell you nothing unless there are large chunks of metal in the pan. The only way to gauge the pumps health, without pulling it, is to cut the old oil filter apart and look for metal.
When a turbo dies, you just get laughed at. Usually the oil seals fail from coking cause by lack of oil changes, and hot shut-downs. The result is your intake and or exhaust ingest oil, and cause lots of blue smoke. Engine eats some oil, but other than that, it is a matter of cleaning everything up, and swapping on a new turbo. I've done some math and my cars have over 2,500 hours on their original turbos. Probably a lot more since not all that time is spent at 60mph.
What can you do about your horrible situation? Well, I'm going to look at this as if I just bought your boat for pennies because you gave up. The oil pan is full of trash, the supercharger is junk, and I wan't to get on the water for cheap.
The engine oil passages should not be full of metal unless you drove the thing until it lost oil pressure. With that said, I would pull main and rod bearings to inspect for wear and clearance check. Depending on condition, I would order parts accordingly. To get out cheap, I would measure piston clearances, with the other two good, I would buy one factory oversize, just enough to repair the bore. I would order an MLS head gasket if available. Pull the head, have the bad cylinder bored to match the new piston. Balance the rods/pistons. Low hour engine, so I would reuse any rubber gasket I could. I would assemble my engine, recheck everything, and re-install. Next, I would find a local shop that builds turbo cars. They would mod my exhaust J pipe after the water injector to route exhaust to my turbo, and back to the thru hull fitting, or a waterbox. I would pick a nice garrett turbo out, standard bearings, probably from the GT series. I would mock it all up, figure out how to route the oil and return from points previously used on the supercharger. I would install a manual boost controller set to 7-8lbs. I would put a boost gauge on the dash beside a new oil pressure gauge, and A/F meter to keep an eye on things. Then I would finish final fitment/installation, test and tune in the water. Then after 10 hours or so, I would re-torque the head.
The other option, if you have more cash to spend, is
http://www.shopsbt.com/seadoo_jet-ski_engine_premium/P40-113.html They only give you a one year warranty as well for the supercharged 4-tech. Even on their premium engines. Then you could buy a turbocharger kit from somewhere, or just have a seadoo gofast shop install it for you.
The SC seadoos disappointed me at first because of the failures, but then I realized the used market was going to be flooded with these things as soon as warranty started running out, and that makes me happy.
:cheers:
Ernest
