Post some pictures if you are able to as well. I'm sure others would greatly appreciate it!
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Supercharger problem
- Thread starter Kap258
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IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I have a driveshaft that's so corroded, I couldn't ever get the collar off, despite pounding on it with a sledge hammer once it was out of the ski. Salt water is one hell of an opponent. Looking fwd to see what you find once you pop that timing cover off. Keep track of what bolt goes where, they're not all the same size. I took a cardboard box and drew the shape of the timing cover on it, then made holes for each of the bolts. I'd take one out, then stick it in the corresponding hole in the box.
Here are the photos of what I have found. I have not found all gear pieces. I found some of the gear and a lot of small pieces of metal. The large pieces were behind the PTO cover and the small shavings were on the other end at the oil separator. Damaged parts so far are Stator plate, Magneto Flywheel, trigger wheel, starter double gear, and chunks out of PTO housing. The oil screen at the oil separator was bent up on the interior frame, so i am afraid more trash got through into engine. The stator also has a lot of grooves in it.I am thinking that all of this is a result from an incident at the beginning of the summer. I left the boat in the lake for a week and when I got back the battery was dead and the bilge pump was not running. I may have taken in enough water to some how get in engine and degrade the oil which probably caused the super charger clutch to break. There was a leak in boat at the steering cable inlet. The oil I removed from the engine I put a sample in a glass jar and put in the freezer to see if it would freeze. Thinking that if it froze it was water and not coolant. It froze, so I think it is water. Another possibility is that I have some other issue that allowed fresh water to enter engine. Questions now are how bad is the interior of the engine? Have I scored my pistons? I can't check compression.Is it worth opening the engine up and looking or should I just replace the engine. I think I am at about $1700 in parts so far.
With just the parts so far that I need it is going to be costly either way to replace or rebuild. Any ideas would be appreciated.
With just the parts so far that I need it is going to be costly either way to replace or rebuild. Any ideas would be appreciated.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I still can't believe it ran with a gear bouncing around in there. Can you sent pics of what you recovered (the gear chunks)? The condition of your pistons largely depends on how long you ran it with bad oil. If the cylinder walls weren't getting proper lubrication, you could have scorched the pistons, but that will be evident once you take them out. I'm betting they're okay. Also, I'd be curious to see how bad the crank/cam bearing are. The metal shavings that can penetrate that screen would be tiny, but they can still cause excess wear on the bearings. The ones on the crank are replaceable, but the ones on the cam aren't. You can check with plastigauge. I think you can reuse that timing case with the small nicks. I don't see any holes or broken mounting points in it. My wife's mini had a timing chain break and scarred up the timing base something fierce. Runs like a champ after I put a new chain on it 
What bothers me is that fresh water ended up in your oil. Even if your motor is submerged, water should not be able to get in. I guess it's better than coolant in your oil though, as that would mean your case is internally damaged. I'm suspecting it leaked in through a gasket or one of the many engine plugs. I'd take the rest of it apart and see what you're dealing with before I made a call on replacing the motor. That's obviously the easier, more assured route, but probably much more expensive. It all depends on how cost sensitive and mechanically inclined you are.
What bothers me is that fresh water ended up in your oil. Even if your motor is submerged, water should not be able to get in. I guess it's better than coolant in your oil though, as that would mean your case is internally damaged. I'm suspecting it leaked in through a gasket or one of the many engine plugs. I'd take the rest of it apart and see what you're dealing with before I made a call on replacing the motor. That's obviously the easier, more assured route, but probably much more expensive. It all depends on how cost sensitive and mechanically inclined you are.
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
I see that you had ceramic sc washers which is bad and this is what causes major damage and scoring. You should pull the camshaft out and I'm guessing that the journals are all scored up and your head will be junk. Your pistons and cylinder walls are normally okay.
You will find a lot of the 40 sc gear bearings and more shrapnel in the bottom half of the motor. I wouldn't make any decisions yet as to rebuild or new motor. Tear it completely down and see what needs replaced and go from there.
You will find a lot of the 40 sc gear bearings and more shrapnel in the bottom half of the motor. I wouldn't make any decisions yet as to rebuild or new motor. Tear it completely down and see what needs replaced and go from there.
Update! I have taken the head off and everything looks good. I split the block and rinsed it out with cleaner and washed the rest of the metal out. All the metal seems to have stayed in the bottom of the engine. I have seen no visible damage from any metal running thru the engine.
Iceman_cb
Member
right on good stuff. no new engine for you. more money for beer lol
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I still don't understand how this happens...
JPass
Well-Known Member
Are you saying that a coolant leak in the intake leads to the coolant getting down into the oil sump by running past the rings through open intake valves?
Digdog
Active Member
Not a coolant leak, but the cooling water being pumped through the intercooler that comes from the main jet at the back. Water from the river/lake etc is pumped through the intercooler to reduce the air temperature coming out of the supercharger for better performance, as that air is very hot. If your intercooler is leaking then yes you can get water in your oil as well as a bunch of other problems. Testing the intercooler is fairly easy to do and many older models have failures and because you can't see the leak it is hard to diagnose, symptoms would be water in the oil, plugs that are rusty as well as corroded or not firing at all, some hydraulic lock when you are trying to start it. It doesn't take much water to make the oil go milky and not much before you get lower bearing failures.
JPass
Well-Known Member
If it's a small amount of water that's leaking into the cylinders after the motor is shut down, then I could see that water leaking past the rings between runs, making it's way into the oil sump. If all the valves are shut when the motor is off (never seen/ heard of this personally), then I'm not sure how a small IC leak could cause the issue with water in the oil.
Update! Engines are cleaned out of debris. Trailered to lake and both run nicely. Couldn’t do much riding, since I found one engine had a broken throttle cable. So, have not been able to go over idle on the right engine that had water in oil. Hopefully the cable comes in quickly and I get back to the lake.
Update for all that helped me thru the process of engine removal and cleaning. Engine runs great. After a couple of trips to the lake, some tightening of clamps on the exhaust, and replacing a broken throttle cable I finally got a good day of water testing yesterday. Boat sounds different now that superchargers are engaging. It is much faster then before. I could only get 36mph at full throttle before. Yesterday I was at 51mph and 7000rpm. Happy day!!!
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