Stripping off old registration number decals

[statikuz]

Hey everyone,

I am having some trouble thoroughly stripping off the old registration numbers from a couple of skis I just got.

I managed to peel off all the sticker part with a razor blade (worked well). This left a good amount of sticky residue which I got off alternating between mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, WD-40, and Goo Gone.

Now on one side the residue seems completely removed, leaving the nice shiny gelcoat underneath:

However, on the other side, I could almost scrape away that shiny "layer" with my fingernail, and rubbing away at it seemed to take it off too (the top parts of the 145). Note that in this photo, the "6" has no sticky residue left.

I have sort of the same problem on the other ski. On one side, the numbers are gone and left a shiny shadow, but not one that seems like any sort of residue/layer.

On the other side though, it looks like that could almost come off (but it doesn't really scrape away like it does on the silver one):

Here you can see where a bit of it is gone:

I know this was long-winded and photo-heavy but I'm hoping this might look familiar to someone and they might have some advice to move forward with. The surface under where the stickers were is hard and smooth, and there's a perceptible "edge" between it and the gelcoat that was exposed, but I can't tell which is higher. I know this is sort of hard to explain with words but maybe the photos will help.

 

[caliburn]

out of all the numbers I have ever removed, I just peeld them off slowly and whatever was left, I soaked a rag in 91 octain gas and comenced to scrub that has always worked for me, it takes a while for the gas to work but once it does the glue starts to deteriourate as I scrub it off.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

i just spray some brake clean on, and hit it with a scotch brite pad, then wet sand with 1500 grit.

 

[hypersniper2010]

goo gone and some elbow grease works well too without scratching up the gel coat and having to sand it back to a shine.

 

[suke]

3m decal remover! Only thing I'll use.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-7498-STRIP...349875633&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+stripe+off+wheel

You can find them cheaper. I paid I think $14 shipped for mine, and it was worth EVERY penny.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

3M wheels are the shiznit, or so I hear.

Also, buff that hull!

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4094673318041.2163806.1019051350&type=3

 

[suke]

3M wheels are the shiznit, or so I hear.

Also, buff that hull!

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4094673318041.2163806.1019051350&type=3

I was severely impressed. I'm on a ton of detailing forums as well and had heard and seen it used to remove decals, badging residue, and pin stripes. This was my first time using it and it ripped the graphics off like it was childs play. No tricks, no need for tons of pressure, and super user friendly. Only things I couldn't get off were a little bit of decal tucked underneath the rub rail. I'll take my heat gun and knife to those.


Also DEF buff that hull!!!

 

[Dr Honda]

I use a razor and Zippo lighter fluid. They come of clean.






As far as your issue with still seeing the numbers. All you can do is sand with 1000 grit... and polish the hulls.

 

[Axkiker]

When I need to remove decals I use Citristrip. Yeah I know its a paint stripper but its so weak that its never hurt Gelcoat when Ive used it. Spray it on and in a few seconds it turns the decal to a soft rubber which peels off.

I removed all of the lame pink decals off my xp without incident.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

I use a razor and Zippo lighter fluid. They come of clean.




As far as your issue with still seeing the numbers. All you can do is sand with 1000 grit... and polish the hulls.

yes, although I use 1500,but either or both will work probably, just give it a good polish, and just stick the new numbers on, i've had hulls where the missing numbers were very very obvious, and once I put new reg numbers on, even if a different font, you could barely notice that there used to be old numbers on there unless your really really looking hard for them, very few people pay that close attention

 

[CLAYMORE]

I used a heat gun and a new (rough leather surface) welding glove. Heat up the sticker and rub off, it's that easy. I will have this documented on my Resto thread shortly...

 

[statikuz]

Thanks everyone for the help. I guess what I'm seeing is the spots where the original reg. numbers weren't quite stuck down, so the gelcoat underneath them got weathered just like the outside. All the sticky residue is gone.

I did get one of those 3M wheels (not even the knockoff one!) but it seemed to discolor the hull a bit so I just stuck with the razor and solvents. Probably just didn't give it a good enough try.

Anyway, I did pick up that 3-step Meguiar's fiberglass restoration kit and a HF rotary - going to pick up some pads this afternoon and see how it goes! The red one doesn't seem so bad but I think the silver metallic one might prove to be a pain. I guess that's a subject for another thread though.

 

[suke]

Thanks everyone for the help. I guess what I'm seeing is the spots where the original reg. numbers weren't quite stuck down, so the gelcoat underneath them got weathered just like the outside. All the sticky residue is gone.

I did get one of those 3M wheels (not even the knockoff one!) but it seemed to discolor the hull a bit so I just stuck with the razor and solvents. Probably just didn't give it a good enough try.

Anyway, I did pick up that 3-step Meguiar's fiberglass restoration kit and a HF rotary - going to pick up some pads this afternoon and see how it goes! The red one doesn't seem so bad but I think the silver metallic one might prove to be a pain. I guess that's a subject for another thread though.

EEEEEK! Careful with that rotary. I have 15+ years of detailing and I won't even come near a rotary.

What you're most likely seeing with the discoloration from the 3m wheel is likely burning of the gel coat. It gets super hot, you gotta keep it moving. Once you see it start to turn color move it to another spot ASAP. The gel coat will usually cool back to it's normal color. Either way buffing will bring it right back.

I plan to use 3M's heaviest cut compound, followed by my Adams polishes and Flex 3401 VRG forced rotation orbital to bring back the shine on my ski.

 

[statikuz]

I hardly even touched it with that 3M wheel, I only used it on one bit of one letter and it didn't seem to work that well so I just aborted. I would probably try it again on something else.

If the rotary and I don't get along I might get the PC but for $30 it was hard to beat.

 

[suke]

I hardly even touched it with that 3M wheel, I only used it on one bit of one letter and it didn't seem to work that well so I just aborted. I would probably try it again on something else.

If the rotary and I don't get along I might get the PC but for $30 it was hard to beat.

Interesting. I ripped off all the graphics on my ski with it.....and the reg numbers. The numbers came off easier than the graphics did. lol

Yeah that's hard to beat. Buffers AREN'T cheap. Hell my flex I think was almost $400. I also have the PC like you were talking about. Great piece of equipment and VERY VERY newb friendly. Rotary will def pack more of a punch. Keep that thing moving, and don't let it set in one spot longer than a couple seconds. Fortunately you're dealing with gel coat with is FAR stronger than a clear coat or even single stage paint. If I didn't get paid to do it I'd likely not have half the equipment I do.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

I use a heat gun and whatever glue residue is left comes off super easy with aircraft decal remover. Just spray on let it sit for 20 seconds and it wipes right off. Amazing stuff

 

[Spimothy Leary]

I hardly even touched it with that 3M wheel, I only used it on one bit of one letter and it didn't seem to work that well so I just aborted. I would probably try it again on something else.

If the rotary and I don't get along I might get the PC but for $30 it was hard to beat.

ps.. if anyone wants a 3m wheel, i'll send it out for $20 shipped, i ordered two by accident on ebay, (put in a minimum bid and won unexpectedly 6 days after I did another one on a buy it now) i have absolutely no need for two of these

 

[kwiktsi]

ps.. if anyone wants a 3m wheel, i'll send it out for $20 shipped, i ordered two by accident on ebay, (put in a minimum bid and won unexpectedly 6 days after I did another one on a buy it now) i have absolutely no need for two of these

When are you coming up to Port Charlotte again? I'll grab it from ya, mine went MIA somewhere and I keep forgetting to pick up another one.

 

[statikuz]

I'm going to retract my earlier complaint about the stripe off wheel; I apologize for not giving it a fair chance.

I decided I was going to strip all the graphics off for restoration so I decided to try that wheel again.

This is the one in case anyone stumbles across this post: http://amzn.com/B00063VT0G

It works really well, I ran it in line with the decals, up and down. You'll make an absolute mess of little bits of decal and eraser-like material - I tried to sort of position my shop vac hose to suck up most of it which I had varying luck with.

Make sure you pay attention to how hot the wheel's getting. I took around 1.75 stripes off and then I noticed the wheel starting to leave a brown residue - it had gotten really hot. So let it rest for a few minutes here and there.

Removing a couple little decals from the back:

Working on one of the stripes:

Ta-da!

 

[suke]

told ya man! That thing is the bidness!! Glad you gave it another go. If it's getting too hot you may be spinning it too fast. I think it says a max of 4k rpms.....which is pretty high. Mine got almost so hot I couldn't touch it, but never left any streaking. I did let it cool from time to time. Seemed to work better when cooler as well. So I'd go for a while, then clean up my mess....rinse repeat.

 

[statikuz]

Yeah, all I had to spin it with was a old Sears 1/2" corded drill, I think it maxes out around 1700 or so. Definitely glad I tried it again, I wasn't looking forward to the razor+solvent route for those big graphics.

 

[suke]

Yeah, all I had to spin it with was a old Sears 1/2" corded drill, I think it maxes out around 1700 or so. Definitely glad I tried it again, I wasn't looking forward to the razor+solvent route for those big graphics.

Sweet. I used my corded dewalt and I think it's 2500 RPMs or less. Can't recall exactly, but pretty certain it's less than 3k. Torque.....it'll rip right out of your hands though. lol

 

[Spimothy Leary]

When are you coming up to Port Charlotte again? I'll grab it from ya, mine went MIA somewhere and I keep forgetting to pick up another one.

i get up that way but only on occasion, but I can probably ship it for like $3.. so i have no problem dropping it in the mail, pm me if you like and i can give you paypal info.