Starting engine magic formula

[kilgorekb]

Scenario:
I drive down the river for 10 minutes. I anchor the boat for an hour or 2. I then need to re-start the engine. Using choke (C), throttle (T), accelerator pump squirts (P), time in seconds (S), and start button (B) as the variables, and in order of occurrence, what is the magic formula to re-crank?

Example: 1C + B + 2P + 1/2T + 5S + 1/2C == Full choke THEN hold start button THEN give it 2 squirts from accelerator pumps THEN place throttle at 50% THEN wait 5 seconds THEN 1/2 choke.

I seem to have trouble with this scenario every time. And I'm always trying a different formula hoping to eventually get it right.

 

[Coastiejoe]

One major battle with Seadoo boats is the lack of fresh air to restart ration once the boat sits. Run the blower for at least 4 minutes to get the les oxygenated air out if the hull. Doing so normally means a total re-learn on how to start your boat as it is MUCH easier for the boat to start.


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[bellski]

Hope some one post some helpful info on this topic

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[USAF_Pride]

One major battle with Seadoo boats is the lack of fresh air to restart ration once the boat sits. Run the blower for at least 4 minutes to get the les oxygenated air out if the hull. Doing so normally means a total re-learn on how to start your boat as it is MUCH easier for the boat to start.

I just leave the blower on all the time while under way. Other than wearing it out a little early, there is no negative to doing so. If I am sitting on the lake awhile, I have a habit of opening the hatch just to make sure it isn't full of water, along with running the fan. I typically have no restart issues.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

It may help to run the blower for a couple/few minutes before attempting a restart, don't summarily discard this possibility. Myself, I don't find it necessary to do this nor do I apply choke.

So what haven't you done and/or confirmed already?

Some other ideas:

The RV motors have an RV that can wear out and cause hard starts.

Old skanky corroded plugs are often an impediment to the hot start.

Otherwise, you may have a fuel system carburetor calibration issue. Too much or too little fuel leaves the air/fuel ratio residing in the crankcase too far on one end of the spectrum. Pop may be too high if it's necessary to apply choke, or a metering needle may be pissing fuel into your intakes if it's leaking and needs replacing.

If your fuel tank vent is plugged, the first pop of the metering needle floods the crankcase with fuel, or maybe the tank has so much pressure inside it's forcing fuel through the metering needles as it sits in the hot sun. The result is same as mentioned, fuel pissing down your intakes into the crankcase.

All else being up to snuff, could be your battery, starter, and cables aren't up to the task. In my experience, it's incredible how quickly salty seawater corrodes those already skimpy COPPER starter cables into pencil-lead thin conductors with a beautiful green "passivation" patina on them. What is that I see looking down in there, is it really 6 inches of corrosive salt water sloshing around in your bilge?

If the MPEM voltage is on the hairy edge, don't take for granted it's good enough to create fire. Just b/c you see spark with the plugs out lying on top of the head, doesn't mean they're able to light off a fuel mixture when they're sitting in an 150psi combustion chamber. That's a different ball of wax where it's gonna take more spark voltage to jump the gap. Marginal doesn't cut the mustard when it comes to the starting system, there isn't much juice left remaining to ring the ignition coils with.

 

[kilgorekb]

It may help to run the blower for a couple/few minutes before attempting a restart, don't summarily discard this possibility. Myself, I don't find it necessary to do this nor do I apply choke.

So what haven't you done and/or confirmed already?

Some other ideas:

The RV motors have an RV that can wear out and cause hard starts.

Old skanky corroded plugs are often an impediment to the hot start.

Otherwise, you may have a fuel system carburetor calibration issue. Too much or too little fuel leaves the air/fuel ratio residing in the crankcase too far on one end of the spectrum. Pop may be too high if it's necessary to apply choke, or a metering needle may be pissing fuel into your intakes if it's leaking and needs replacing.

If your fuel tank vent is plugged, the first pop of the metering needle floods the crankcase with fuel, or maybe the tank has so much pressure inside it's forcing fuel through the metering needles as it sits in the hot sun. The result is same as mentioned, fuel pissing down your intakes into the crankcase.

All else being up to snuff, could be your battery, starter, and cables aren't up to the task. In my experience, it's incredible how quickly salty seawater corrodes those already skimpy COPPER starter cables into pencil-lead thin conductors with a beautiful green "passivation" patina on them. What is that I see looking down in there, is it really 6 inches of corrosive salt water sloshing around in your bilge?

If the MPEM voltage is on the hairy edge, don't take for granted it's good enough to create fire. Just b/c you see spark with the plugs out lying on top of the head, doesn't mean they're able to light off a fuel mixture when they're sitting in an 150psi combustion chamber. That's a different ball of wax where it's gonna take more spark voltage to jump the gap. Marginal doesn't cut the mustard when it comes to the starting system, there isn't much juice left remaining to ring the ignition coils with.

Havent tried the blower.

No salt water here.

I always run the blower before launch and it cranks good. Its never occured to me to run it before every crank.

Rebuild carbs last year. All setting are set to suggested. Popoff is within range.

Fuel vent is not clogged. Can see fumes when gassing up.

Never looked at the RV.

Prob just need to remember to run blower b4 every crank.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Havent tried the blower.

No salt water here.

I always run the blower before launch and it cranks good. Its never occured to me to run it before every crank.

Rebuild carbs last year. All setting are set to suggested. Popoff is within range.

Fuel vent is not clogged. Can see fumes when gassing up.

Never looked at the RV.

Prob just need to remember to run blower b4 every crank.

Not only does it help with starting it helps to prevent explosions. The purpose if the blower is to clear gas fumes.

Explosions and fires are not desirable with watercraft.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Not only does it help with starting it helps to prevent explosions. The purpose if the blower is to clear gas fumes.

Explosions and fires are not desirable with watercraft.


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They will ruin your day, and probably your hairdo as well.

 

[Coastiejoe]

They will ruin your day, and probably your hairdo as well.

I can tell you they have no problem burning to the water line.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.

 

[jhjesse]

The best method I have found is to hold your mouth slightly open and stick your tongue out the left side, then cross your right fingers. :lol:

Seriously I found that the blower for a couple minutes along with one pump of the throttle really makes a difference. Hope this helps. :cheers:

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Havent tried the blower.

No salt water here.

I always run the blower before launch and it cranks good. Its never occured to me to run it before every crank.

Rebuild carbs last year. All setting are set to suggested. Popoff is within range.

Fuel vent is not clogged. Can see fumes when gassing up.

Never looked at the RV.

Prob just need to remember to run blower b4 every crank.

By your description it seems you believe a lack of fuel may be the culprit. If the crank is strong and the bilge isn't filled with foul air then it's possible the accelerator nozzles may be clogged, so that's worth investigating as well.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

And if you want a simplified formula with as many variables factored out as possible(such as concern for safety, ie:clear water ahead) just open the throttle WOT, press start button and if it doesn't fire immediately then pull on choke till it fires and let go immediately once it does.

I believe some setups won't crank with full throttle, so it may not be possible for you to try this.

You should need choke only once in a day, at initial cold startup.

 

[1800chall_tim]

leaky needles/seats in carbs could cause hard starts on a warm engine. last season i replaced my portside needles/seats and it improved my hot starts. but like said above, if it doesn't pop off right away i will give it like half throttle while cranking.

 

[enut]

Besides running the blower just before starting, the manual clearly states that to start a warm engine do not use choke. Move throttle lever to 1/4 to 1/2 way up then try to start.
See if that helps, it work pretty good for me.