Start/Stop Dead on 2014 GTI 130 SE

[GearGal]

My Start/Stop button doesn't bring power to anything. Just towed back from the dealership. No faults. Dealership had opened a case with BRP tech service. Their generic "conclusion" is potentially bad wiring. I managed to get the case information & am adding relevant text below. I'm new to DIY on my unit but couldn't stomach the $2300 for parts & labor to replace BOTH wiring harnesses...

1) Only way unit powers on is with the power interface connected at the dealership
2) Battery has a good charge
3) 12.35V at the following locations
a) fuse box RD wire PIN B1 (fuse #8, 30 amp)
b) fuse box RD wire PIN C1
c) fuse box RD wire PIN B2 (fuse #7, 30 amp)
4) 12V to the main relay
5) Voltage present to the L1 pin, the M2 pin, & the M3 pin
6) Does not appear to have 12V to ECM pin with black and violet wire from the fuse box
7) Unit starts and runs great with the interface hooked up
8) Unit does not start jumping the relay
9) Not getting battery voltage at ECM PIN B-H2 while relay is not activated
10) Does not appear to be getting a good ground between the ECM and fuse box pins

I purchased the dealer manual, so I have that handy. While I am an engineer, I am NOT savvy with electronics (go figure). Any hand holding is appreciated greatly! SeaDoo season is short in Ohio & right now is prime riding weather.

 

[ski-d00]

You don't need new wiring harnesses. You need to find the bad connections. It is pretty simple to trace the wiring using the wiring diagram and starting at the start/stop switch. It sounds like you're not getting to power to the ECU from your relay. Check the connections at the back of your fuse panel. They tend to corrode at the terminal crimp or slightly behind in the wire itself. Simple and quick to remove the terminal and inspect and resistance check.

The power interface basically just bypasses the 30A relay and powers the ECU directly through the CANbus. I rarely use mine except for your exact case and most skidoos that don't have batteries. Your dealer is on the right track and should have fixed it but I have a feeling there's no money in it for them to just replace terminals.

Where in Ohio are you? I'm on Grand Lake St Marys.

 

[GearGal]

Looks like the wires are potted in an epoxy of sorts. Unless I'm missing something, I'm not seeing any terminals...?...

Akron area for me. Stick mainly to West Branch or Mosquito Lake. Only go on the big kid water (aka Lake Erie) if I have another boat with me. Was on West Branch with my neighbor's 4 teenage boys when the fun "ended".

 

[ski-d00]

Definitely not potted, that is the silicone seal. On the other side where you will see the terminals, you will see a small tang that has to be depressed and the terminal will pull out from the back side. You can use a small pin to bend the tab inward slightly. Remember to bend the tab outward before you push them back in. See pics below of the your exact terminal.

 

[GearGal]

Super duper dumb question...would this constitute a bad connection/terminal? If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, this is the F11 fuse, which although is the depth sounder (which I had installed a few years back by the dealership), it goes through the relay, so it may not permit the relay to open/close properly...?...This terminal is on the "left" leg of the 3 amp fuse (circled in red).

Confirmed F3, F8, F19 good.

 

[ski-d00]

Definitely not a good connection but that is only a 3A circuit and shouldn't be part of your circuit for power up and shouldn't be going through the 30A relay. It should have the other end going to the 12v bus bar.

On your fuse panel pic, the 30A relay (which is missing) in the bottom right is critical. These terminals should be inspected closely at both ends of the wires. The bus bars are also very important.

If a wire has a sharp bend in it, like the black/violet which is for the 30A relay in your earlier pic, it should be looked at carefully and inspected when the terminal is pushed out. It's okay to pull on the terminals a little bit to see if anything is flexing or stretching too much. Your number 6 on your list in your first post is what I think is the problem.

 

[GearGal]

Definitely not a good connection but that is only a 3A circuit and shouldn't be part of your circuit for power up and shouldn't be going through the 30A relay. It should have the other end going to the 12v bus bar.

On your fuse panel pic, the 30A relay (which is missing) in the bottom right is critical. These terminals should be inspected closely at both ends of the wires. The bus bars are also very important.

If a wire has a sharp bend in it, like the black/purple which is for the 30A relay in your earlier pic, it should be looked at carefully and inspected when the terminal is pushed out. It's okay to pull on the terminals a little bit to see if anything is flexing or stretching too much.

Ummm...what's a "bus bar"? Are they the black bars/rails in my fuse box?

 

[ski-d00]

Yes, they basically are a junction to connect all the wires in that group together. They typically are for12v positives and the grounds.

 

[GearGal]

Yes, they basically are a junction to connect all the wires in that group together. They typically are for12v positives and the grounds.

I'll start looking! Thanks! Stay tuned...

 

[GearGal]

Soooo...after tinkering back on Thursday & checking all connections (cleaning, reinserting, & ensuring the connections are secure), she fired right up! I still need to fix the depth finders terminal; however, the physical sensor on my hull lost the adhesion, so I'm not "using" it currently.

I cannot confirm if whatever the dealership or whatever I did fixed the issue as I didn't attempt to start my unit after I got it home from the dealership. Went out on the lake yesterday to put her through the typical single rider paces & she did beautifully! I started & stopped the engine multiple times via both the START/STOP button & by unplugging the DESS key. No problems.

Thanks @ski-d00 for all the guidance! You helped me get back onto the water! While I still need to build confidence that the issue is truly resolved (and not masked by the terminal cleaning & such), I saved $2,300 for another day (at minimum) at least got another ride. I also expanded my knowledge base of my unit, which is always a positive.

 

[GearGal]

Also...as a FYI for anyone

I located a BRP Customer Service phone number for my efforts since my dealership opened a case with them. They were actually helpful in moving the investigation into my unit forward. If you have a case with BRP, give the number below a call & be your own advocate!

(888)-272-9222

 

[ski-d00]

If you are still unsure about the connections, you should start the unit on the hose and then start pushing and pulling on wires individually to see if you can get it to stall or stutter which will lead you to the exact bad connection. These wires and connections are pretty robust so they should be able to take some bending, pulling, and pushing. If it does stall, turn off the water right away and the water should never be on unless the ski is running. Start ski, hose on, hose off, shut off ski. You should only run it for 2-3 minutes max on the hose so you need to be ready and work quickly and systematically through all the wires on the fuse panel.

The 30A relays fail quite a bit and I have seen them fail intermittently. I hope your dealer was smart enough to replace that first. If they didn't, you should and you can get them at the auto parts store for like $5-$10.