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So Pissed...............

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JPass said:
Yes and no. When I've broken them before, I had the head stuck in the bolt and it was quite difficult to remove due to how hard the tool bit into the bolt head. I'd like to remove the chances of that happening again. Tool will be here Fri, I can wait.
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Whats the tracking# the suspense is killing me. :thumbsup:
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Why not just take a hose lose somewhere to drain the antifreeze, leave the bolt alone? I'd put $5 on if you drilled a hole through the bolt it would probably back out without too much effort.
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Being that the exchangers are the lowest point in the system, it would be almost impossible to drain the system completely from another hose inside the boat. I've even thought about trying to use my fluid extractor to drain the system as well. Haven't done it for the same reason I mentioned earlier (need to flush the system completely).

I'm also changing the brand and color of the antifreeze, so I'd like to completely flush the system like I already did on the starboard side.
 
Here's 2 broken extractors I still have laying around. As you can see both of them broke. These are awesome for screws and small items, definitely not strong enough for this situation.

20161228_173605.jpg
 
JPass said:
Here's 2 broken extractors I still have laying around. As you can see both of them broke. These are awesome for screws and small items, definitely not strong enough for this situation.

View attachment 38647
Click to expand...

I think you might be able to get a bite with that type but I always reach for the spiral fluted type, largest that will fit will be more robust allowing greater torque. I have some Vermont American some have broken others have not.

Definitely they will break if too much torque is applied, some might be more brittle than others.

Anyway, if you disconnect a hose you might be able to connect a freshwater flush hose to purge out the old type antifreeze? Then use a shop vacuum to suck out majority of the remaining fresh water, or compressed air (be careful not to exceed 15~20psi system pressure, air volume will move the remaining coolant).
 
JPass said:
Here's 2 broken extractors I still have laying around. As you can see both of them broke. These are awesome for screws and small items, definitely not strong enough for this situation.

View attachment 38647
Click to expand...

They don't make tools like they use to. That Chinese steel is cheap, soft or brittle. Try an American made tool if you can find one.
 
If you are going to use heat along with the new extractor I would heat the head of the bolt. By heating the head of the bolt to a low red color then letting the color come back just before trying the extractor will allow the bolt to expand (get longer) releasing its death grip. Heating the surrounding area around the bolt will increase the grip of the bolt.
If the bolt head snaps off then just drill and tap it back to the original M6 thread.
 
Ahh Ok. I just assumed they were all the same as my 09RXTIS. Mine is a M6 socket head cap screw (Allen head) with a brass washer for sealing.
When you get it out, take a pic and post. I have never seen a socket head cap screw with tapered pipe threads. My curiosity is now peaked. :) Good Luck.
 
Just looked at the parts diagram and it says it is a 1/8-27npt plug, but your pic shows a counter bored hole with a cap screw head just like my ski. Now I am really curious.
At any rate try heating the bolt. Usually it will work. Good luck.
 
jhjesse said:
Ahh Ok. I just assumed they were all the same as my 09RXTIS. Mine is a M6 socket head cap screw (Allen head) with a brass washer for sealing.
When you get it out, take a pic and post. I have never seen a socket head cap screw with tapered pipe threads. My curiosity is now peaked. :) Good Luck.
Click to expand...

Here's a pic of the replacement I ordered:

plug.jpg
 
JPass said:
Here's a pic of the replacement I ordered:

View attachment 38660
Click to expand...

I change my coolant on November 6, 2016 and I removed and replaced a M6 socket head cap screw and washer just like jhjesse. Starting to make sense now. Good luck with your situation. Wish I could add something but you seem to have the situation under control and are in good hands. BTW the Irwin tool set is top quality and USA made but you know that already. Happy New Year.
 
I believe the difference between the plug sizes and washer requirements have to do with the two types of heat exchangers on these boats. Those with the ride plate heat exchangers have the M6 plug and washer. The ones with the twin, outboard mounted heat exchangers have the 1/8-27 plug.

I appreciate all the help and feedback so far. Thanks everyone.
 
SUCCESS!!!!!!!!

Tool arrived early.

Had to put quite a bit of torque on the bolt. Seriously thought the extractor was gonna break, but it didn't.

No heat, just brute force.

Leaving the bolt in for now as I don't have the replacement yet and wifey wants to hit the water this weekend.

Extractor set was worth the money. I'm sure it will come in handy in the future.

20161229_165618.jpg

20161229_165640.jpg
 
Congratulations, the right tool and a little muscle....bingo success. Love happy endings.
 
Good work man, I guess some anti-seize compound rubbed into those threads might keep this from happening again, or even some teflon paste thread sealer (basically a lubricant). I know you already considered this.

Hanson I see, really nice design with low taper and high flute count, I like that set. Yep, good quality tools designed for the purpose really make a difference.
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Good work man, I guess some anti-seize compound rubbed into those threads might keep this from happening again, or even some teflon paste thread sealer (basically a lubricant). I know you already considered this.

Hanson I see, really nice design with low taper and high flute count, I like that set. Yep, good quality tools designed for the purpose really make a difference.
Click to expand...

Once I get the new plug I'll flush the system. Before I fill, I'll chase the threads and most definitely apply some thread sealer (same as I did on the STBD side).

Right tool for the right job, plus, who doesn't like buying tools to add to their collection?

Next project is to replace and service wheel bearings and seals on trailer. Never done one with 4 wheel disc brakes. Some of the bolts look a bit "stuck". I'll be soaking them with some 50/50 ATF and acetone a few days before I begin and hope for the best. Lol.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
JPass said:
Next project is to replace and service wheel bearings and seals on trailer. Never done one with 4 wheel disc brakes. Some of the bolts look a bit "stuck". I'll be soaking them with some 50/50 ATF and acetone a few days before I begin and hope for the best. Lol.
Click to expand...

I like to use some loc tite on the outer diameter of the inner lip seal before pressing the seal into the hub. FWIW
 
Good deal!! Glad the problem is sorted out, looks like a very nice extractor set. Buying the correct tools for the job is key!! Even buying tools you still saved over taking it to someone to do the job.
 
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