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So Pissed...............

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JPass

JPass

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So I decided to flush my cooling system and replace the coolant being that the manual states this should be done every 2 years and our boat is 4 years old with no idea if the coolant is original or not.

Stated with the starboard side motor first (good thing) and everything went perfect.

Move to the port engine and I stripped the hex head bolt at the heat exchanger. No worries, I have easy-outs and other bolt removal tools. Not so fast said the bolt. I've been soaking this thing for days in Kroil and other penetrating fluids with no luck. The easy out bites, but won't budge the bolt. I'm worried about applying to much force and braking the tool.

I even ran the boat yesterday and had the tool ready when she was trailered thinking the very warm metal may have loosened it's death grip......Nope.

I called the local dealer and he won't touch it cause it's a boat and they don't work on the boats anymore. I tried to explain the vehicle shouldn't matter as all I am asking for is to remove the bolt, but they refused to touch it.


Not sure what I am going to do now. I guess I'm going to try to find a shop to remove the bolt. Hope it can be done without trashing the heat exchanger as it seams to be glued to the hull really well and would be an absolute nightmare to replace the entire part.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Heat and or drill and tap. If you tap it, use a TAPERED thread so a plug will go back in place. It is the Taper that makes sure it does not leak. Or,, a straight thread with a bolt and O-Ring.. You will need some sort of sealant for the bolt if you go with the straight thread.
 
Coastiejoe said:
Heat and or drill and tap. If you tap it, use a TAPERED thread so a plug will go back in place. It is the Taper that makes sure it does not leak. Or,, a straight thread with a bolt and O-Ring.. You will need some sort of sealant for the bolt if you go with the straight thread.
Click to expand...

The stock drain bolt has a copper crush washer to seal.
 
beerdart said:
The stock drain bolt has a copper crush washer to seal.
Click to expand...

I don't believe it does. Schematics don't show one nor did I see one when I removed the starboard drain plug. Threads are tapered like CJ stated earlier.

At least that's how it is on our 2012.
 
So far the cheapest I could find someone to come have a try at removing the plug is $100. I'm still looking into other places and reaching out to some mechanic friends of mine.

Here's a pic of the plug as it stands today. The extractor tool bites hard, but I'm worried about applying too much toque and snapping the tool at the narrow neck just above the extractor head.

I think a stouter tool could do the job, but haven't quite put my hands on one yet. Gonna keep oiling her up while I think of where to go next.

20161227_171638.jpg

20161227_171806.jpg
 
The problem with tapered pipe plugs is they wedge to seal so expanding ez outs are mostly ineffective. They do sell oversized broaching hex bits that sometimes work. IMO drill it out and re tap.
 
That bolt has a bit of loctite on it. Don't worry about breaking the extractor off in there. I use the smaller ones all the time and never broke one.
 
JPass said:
So far the cheapest I could find someone to come have a try at removing the plug is $100. I'm still looking into other places and reaching out to some mechanic friends of mine.

Here's a pic of the plug as it stands today. The extractor tool bites hard, but I'm worried about applying too much toque and snapping the tool at the narrow neck just above the extractor head.

I think a stouter tool could do the job, but haven't quite put my hands on one yet. Gonna keep oiling her up while I think of where to go next.

View attachment 38628

View attachment 38629
Click to expand...

Can you put the closed end wrench just above the threads, so it below the tapered neck?
 
Seadoobuddy said:
Can you put the closed end wrench just above the threads, so it below the tapered neck?
Click to expand...

I tried that, but the box wrench was slipping off the hex closest to the tool head. The new extractors should be here Friday. I'm hoping they work.
 
XP 787 said:
That bolt has a bit of loctite on it. Don't worry about breaking the extractor off in there. I use the smaller ones all the time and never broke one.
Click to expand...

I haven't been as lucky as I've broken 3 of these little extractors before. 2 at the narrow portion of the shank and 1 of them I actually split the extractor head. I may have a broken one laying around to prove my point. There's no way that little tool won't break if I put some torque to it..........at least based on my experiences with these things.
 
I've used an Allen hex socket for similar problems. Drill the hole a little smaller than the instance between the points and drive it home with a hammer so the six sides bite. The hammering helps break any bond. Then remove with a ratchet wrench.
 
D0NNIE said:
I've used an Allen hex socket for similar problems. Drill the hole a little smaller than the instance between the points and drive it home with a hammer so the six sides bite. The hammering helps break any bond. Then remove with a ratchet wrench.
Click to expand...


Not sure I follow? The new extractors I just purchased will fit right into the stripped hex head of the existing bolt (no drilling required). As you turn the tool counterclockwise the spiral splines bite into the walls of the hex head and provide the grip.

The current tool grabs just fine, I'm just worried about it breaking under the stress (happened before to me).
 
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Well if it does break just grab the broken off extractor and twist it to the right and should come right out. All you really have to lose is a broken tool. Worth a shot.
 
XP 787 said:
Well if it does break just grab the broken off extractor and twist it to the right and should come right out. All you really have to lose is a broken tool. Worth a shot.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. When I've broken them before, I had the head stuck in the bolt and it was quite difficult to remove due to how hard the tool bit into the bolt head. I'd like to remove the chances of that happening again. Tool will be here Fri, I can wait.
 
I think you will want some heat to solve this... Heat all around the plug, get it pretty hot. Then use a squirt bottle and squirt water directly onto the plug.. This will shock it, break it loose, and the water will shrink it a bit rapidly as well. Then try the ez out or whatever you are using..
 
Why not just take a hose lose somewhere to drain the antifreeze, leave the bolt alone? I'd put $5 on if you drilled a hole through the bolt it would probably back out without too much effort.
 
JPass said:
Yes and no. When I've broken them before, I had the head stuck in the bolt and it was quite difficult to remove due to how hard the tool bit into the bolt head. I'd like to remove the chances of that happening again. Tool will be here Fri, I can wait.
Click to expand...

I can usually shatter the easy out using a hammer/punch, it turns to dust and easy to remove the chunks from the hole it was stuck in.
 
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