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Smokey RFI

TIny

New Member
Hey guys,

I am fairly new to the Seadoo PWC scene and picked up a 2000 GTX RFI from a buddy recently.
It wasn't running and the hull was a mess. I ran over most of the fuses - and replaced three of them. I also changed the old leaky oil tank.

When I tried to restart, it would not and it turned out the starter was also shot, so that too was replaced. somehow, she just would not turn over. It turns out that there was oil in the cylinder - the front one specifically.
So we pumped out the oil from it, buttoned things up and she fired right up. She was fairly smoky - but given everything plus the fact I put seafoam in the gas tank I didnt think too much of that.

We then took it to the lake for a test run. She was still smokey in the water and did not want to idle longer then 5 min. However, when driven, she ran really really strong.

After the test run, we brought it home to go over everything again. The spark plugs themselves were very loose (they were hand tight only), so we took them out to inspect them, and they didn't look too terrible.

I then set up the hoses and adapters and to my surprise, no additional oil was pumped out of the cylinders nor are there any signs of leaks.
Once the spark plugs were back in, they were torqued in to avoid the previous hand tightening and she fired right up. But she is still smokey.

Is this smoke normal given what I've noted here or is there something else that I need to address?
The engine shows that she only has 85hours on it, so this thing is fairly new. I have attached a video for reference regarding the smoke.

 
You need to check the oil injection lever. Make sure the two marks are aligned.
It is going to smoke being a two-stroke but yours seems to smoke a little more than normal.
 
Check the settings like @mikidymac suggested but I find a lot of skis I've worked on smoke when first started. Gotta put them on the water to see what is going on. Inner crank lipseal leaks will make the skis smoke on start up but it should clear up but it takes a bit of running. My wife's ski fogs the bayou for the first couple of minutes then it is fine. Ride it !!
 
Check the settings like @mikidymac suggested but I find a lot of skis I've worked on smoke when first started. Gotta put them on the water to see what is going on. Inner crank lipseal leaks will make the skis smoke on start up but it should clear up but it takes a bit of running. My wife's ski fogs the bayou for the first couple of minutes then it is fine. Ride it !!
I did just that, she runs so strong....but in the marina the idle is off a little, it runs at 1500 rpm but then randomly drops RPMS and wants to stall out...maybe dirty fuel filter?
 
I did just that, she runs so strong....but in the marina the idle is off a little, it runs at 1500 rpm but then randomly drops RPMS and wants to stall out...maybe dirty fuel filter?
Could be the low speed adjusters are rich. Turn them in 1/4 turn and it should get better. On a long idle ride a slow speed you need to clear the carbs a bit just like you did. If the adjusters and carbs are spot on it won't happen as much if at all. Way to check is let it idle a ways, then accelerate. If it sputters it is burning off the excess fuel before it can accelerate so you are rich. If it accelerates cleanly... you're dialed in.
 
Could be the low speed adjusters are rich. Turn them in 1/4 turn and it should get better. On a long idle ride a slow speed you need to clear the carbs a bit just like you did. If the adjusters and carbs are spot on it won't happen as much if at all. Way to check is let it idle a ways, then accelerate. If it sputters it is burning off the excess fuel before it can accelerate so you are rich. If it accelerates cleanly... you're dialed in.
RFI doesn't have carbs or low speed adjusters.:cool:
 
So I adjusted the oil pump marks and they are perfect.
The large amounts of smoke are not there anymore, that issue seems to be resolved.
However, she kept dropping RPM and stalling in the water. So, I've taken it back out of the water again - there was some seaweed in the intake which was removed. I got it home and she fires right up, isn't excessively smokey and the idle is around 2300RPM on the trailer...
Is this RPM ideal and what - outside of the fuel filter should I be looking at ? what should be the RPM at idle in the water?
 
I started my GTXs a few days ago for the first time in 9 months. Smoke everywhere as usual. Put them on the water and all the excess oil and such gets burned off and very little smoke. Personally I believe the internal seals have small leaks on many of these engines. So oil on start up to me isn't an issue at all. It should clean up after about 5 minutes of riding. If you are concerned about the idle I would do this.

Back the idle screw out till the butterfly in the throttle body is completely closed, then reset the Throttle Position Sensor using the Candoo or other system. Then reset the idle out of the water for 3000 (I set them at 2800) I look for a steady idle RPM in the water with the RFI. I don't like the idle jumping around 100 or 150 RPM which I have had in the past. Good Luck !!
 
I started my GTXs a few days ago for the first time in 9 months. Smoke everywhere as usual. Put them on the water and all the excess oil and such gets burned off and very little smoke. Personally I believe the internal seals have small leaks on many of these engines. So oil on start up to me isn't an issue at all. It should clean up after about 5 minutes of riding. If you are concerned about the idle I would do this.

Back the idle screw out till the butterfly in the throttle body is completely closed, then reset the Throttle Position Sensor using the Candoo or other system. Then reset the idle out of the water for 3000 (I set them at 2800) I look for a steady idle RPM in the water with the RFI. I don't like the idle jumping around 100 or 150 RPM which I have had in the past. Good Luck !!
Sorry...What other system would allow me to do this? Is the CanDoo the only way to make this adjustment safely or can I manually just increase this so the on land RPM reads closer to 3000?
 
Even with the TPS set by computer you still have to set the idle RPM by the adjustment bolt at the rear of the throttle body. Lots of them are stuck and won't move easily because no one ever touches them. Sort of Set and forget. I always get them freed up and moving. . Personally I think you can blow off the TPS sensor reset and adjust manually alone. I've swapped computers and entire throttle bodies with sensors and never reset the TPS and had no issues. My reason for suggesting is you seem to be having issues and the only way to eliminate everything is to set it up by the book. That said... just turn the bolt in a bit and raise the idle. There may be a nut on the bottom of the bolt you'll have to loosen. If the bolt moves easily you can adjust it on the trailer or in the water. It isn't difficult to get to. Good Luck !!
 
Even with the TPS set by computer you still have to set the idle RPM by the adjustment bolt at the rear of the throttle body. Lots of them are stuck and won't move easily because no one ever touches them. Sort of Set and forget. I always get them freed up and moving. . Personally I think you can blow off the TPS sensor reset and adjust manually alone. I've swapped computers and entire throttle bodies with sensors and never reset the TPS and had no issues. My reason for suggesting is you seem to be having issues and the only way to eliminate everything is to set it up by the book. That said... just turn the bolt in a bit and raise the idle. There may be a nut on the bottom of the bolt you'll have to loosen. If the bolt moves easily you can adjust it on the trailer or in the water. It isn't difficult to get to. Good Luck !!
Im just looking at the shop manual for this, there are no details on the nut you talked about, any idea where it would be?
im trying to post a picture for reference

Adjustment; Throttle Position Sensor (Tps) - Sea-doo GS Shop Manual [Page 225]
 
There should be a lock nut at the bottom of the idle adjustment screw. The throttle body is threaded.

RFI Throttle Body.jpg
 
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the heads up on this.
To clarify there is a nut at the bottom of that screw that was circled above. That may need to be held in place with a 10mm wrench for some of you.
I used a socket with an allen key head to make the adjustment of the throttle. She idles now at 3k rpm on the trailer and the oil pump marks are still in perfect alignment. Next step is drop it in the water again and give her a go.
 
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