Has anyone purchased Skat trak impeller on here? My impeller did not come with a nose boot and my stock one is to big. I go back to my seadoo dealer where I purchased it from and told them my problem and they give me a new nose boot and that one is also to big. What gives? Do I need to get it directly from the company?
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Skat trak impeller
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robin savell lloyd
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I have read that if you do not have that part it will add to cavitation. :cheers:
Take it back....
Take the impeller back and tell them that your order is not complete. If you ordered that impeller, the boot is suppose to come with it. That boot is not a seperate order item.
They sold you something you can't use. They already admit that by freely giving you the boot, but it's too big.....so, I'd take it back and ask them for my money.......but
I've never ordered a Skat impeller, but I don't understand how the nose boot from yours, won't fit theirs. I thought it would be the same diameter, since it's the hub and blades that are designed for the performance, not the nose.
Robin is right though. You do need that boot. Not only for the idea of cavitation but because it's a shield from debris getting into your splines.
Take the impeller back and tell them that your order is not complete. If you ordered that impeller, the boot is suppose to come with it. That boot is not a seperate order item.
They sold you something you can't use. They already admit that by freely giving you the boot, but it's too big.....so, I'd take it back and ask them for my money.......but
I've never ordered a Skat impeller, but I don't understand how the nose boot from yours, won't fit theirs. I thought it would be the same diameter, since it's the hub and blades that are designed for the performance, not the nose.
Robin is right though. You do need that boot. Not only for the idea of cavitation but because it's a shield from debris getting into your splines.
I called the company directly and they sent me 2 boots free of charge
. They are alot smaller then the stock boots. I have installed a new wear ring and impeller and my vibration is gone. The only thing is that when I am hard on acceleration turning left is sometimes but not evertime it wants to bog down. I didnt notice a gain in top speed but then again it is not accurate without a GPS. Speed feels about the same but has a little more pickup and hops out of the water better. Any idea what would cause is to bog down when turning? Never did that before the new impeller. Any ideas? Thanks for your help
. They are alot smaller then the stock boots. I have installed a new wear ring and impeller and my vibration is gone. The only thing is that when I am hard on acceleration turning left is sometimes but not evertime it wants to bog down. I didnt notice a gain in top speed but then again it is not accurate without a GPS. Speed feels about the same but has a little more pickup and hops out of the water better. Any idea what would cause is to bog down when turning? Never did that before the new impeller. Any ideas? Thanks for your helprobin savell lloyd
Active Member
I have read that a slow down is normal in a turn but I do forget which way right or left. I am suprised that you never seen it before. It has something to do with the direction that the impeller turns one way helps water flow into the pump the other reduces the water flow into the pump. :cheers:
epicboater
New Member
hi
Hi there, you should alreasdy know that when turning it does not realy matter what way right or left. turning casuses drag the sharper the turn the more speed lost. If your worried so much about lossing speed when turning just dont do real sharp turns/ remember speed and take off has a lot to do with drag. you have water drag air drag and waves will casue drag. the more of the boat in the water the more drag and it will plow. I can give you lots of ideas to get more power and to reduse drag, but it would not be cheap and in my opinon the gain would not be worht the cost. Drag is your enemy any way you can reduse drag, your on your way to fast times
epicboater
Hi there, you should alreasdy know that when turning it does not realy matter what way right or left. turning casuses drag the sharper the turn the more speed lost. If your worried so much about lossing speed when turning just dont do real sharp turns/ remember speed and take off has a lot to do with drag. you have water drag air drag and waves will casue drag. the more of the boat in the water the more drag and it will plow. I can give you lots of ideas to get more power and to reduse drag, but it would not be cheap and in my opinon the gain would not be worht the cost. Drag is your enemy any way you can reduse drag, your on your way to fast times
epicboater
I know that when turning the ski will go slower but when I am turning or just coming off a turn at a low speed it will bog down enough to make me think something was caught in my grate.Then it will jump out and take off. There isnt anything I could have screwed up when replacing the ring and impeller? Doe most 787s not have power right out of the hole? It seems almost like a turbo on a car. Once it gets boost it will take off but has that lag in the lower rpms. I just bought a nice book that guided me through the impeller and ring install maybe its time to rebuild the carbs:cheers:. Thanks for all the replies everyones input helps me get a better understanding about these machines.
epicboater
New Member
Did you check the wear ring clearance, and from everything I have read and understand about motors. your carbs could do with a good cleaning, however try putting some sea foam in the cas tank and take it for a good run, this could help, and save you from spending the whole day rebuilding the carbs. go on line serch sea foam do some resherch on it, it is good stuff.
another thing could be a break down on spark at hight throtal. just thing an engin is a fine tuned ypu need fuel, spark, and good compression in the cylander, if just one of these is off, you have a poor runing engin.
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another thing could be a break down on spark at hight throtal. just thing an engin is a fine tuned ypu need fuel, spark, and good compression in the cylander, if just one of these is off, you have a poor runing engin.
.
Here is a interesting link for single engine seadoo jet boats.
http://www.groupk.com/sd720jetbt.htm
It has a lot of neat information in it. Here is a little snip from it:
Pump Shoe - The pump shoe is the actual metal part (bolted to the hull) that the pump body seals up against. In the case of the 14.5's, the shoe and the ride plate are made as one piece. It is "fundamental" that this shoe/ride plate is perfectly sealed to the hull with a high-grade silicone sealer. Herein lies a lot of the cavitation problems experienced by many 14.5 owners. Many of these shoes came from the factory with breeches in the silicone that sealed them to the hull. On these units, no kind of custom prop, etc, can eliminate the cavitation. The pump shoe/ride plate "must" be removed and resealed using "Permitex 66c Industrial Clear Silicone" (available in auto parts stores). Removal of the pump shoe is difficult (usually done with a hydraulic jack between the plate and the rear swim step). Once off, all surfaces must be completely cleaned of the old sealer. It is impossible to over emphasize the absolute importance of have this area attended to. We recommend This procedure for "every" single motor 14.5.
As added insurance to sealing between the pump shoe and pump case, we recommend a foam pump sealing-ring (available from the SD dealer). This inexpensive foam ring assures that there are no unknown gaps in the crucial sealing surface between the pump case and the pump shoe.
Wear Ring - The wear ring is a removable Teflon plastic liner that the impeller spins within. In a perfect world, this ring has no grooves or gouges on its surface, and it fits closely to the impeller’s outside diameter. However there can be considerable cavitation if the wear ring is gouged or grooved (as can happen from digestion of rocks or branches). In addition to the cavitation, a damaged wear ring reduces pump efficiency in a way that can cause the engine to run a few 100 rpm higher than normal (for any given speed). The end result is reduced pump thrust, and reduced fuel range. If your wear ring is damaged in anyway, it’s cost effective to replace it...and then stay away from rocks.
Drive shaft protector - The 14.5's come from the factory with a white plastic sheath that slips over the drive shaft. This free spinning sheath is intended to make it easier to remove ropes that might get wrapped around the drive shaft. Unfortunately, the forces of debris entering the pump often causes this protector to fracture and break apart, thus contributing to cavitation. We chose to cut this protector off at the front of the drive shaft (a small part of it must remain to seal the shaft), thus increasing the pump’s water intake area. At this same time we shortened our dock-lines to a length that would bake it impossible for them the wrap the drive shaft when tied to the cleats on the top deck.
http://www.groupk.com/sd720jetbt.htm
It has a lot of neat information in it. Here is a little snip from it:
Pump Shoe - The pump shoe is the actual metal part (bolted to the hull) that the pump body seals up against. In the case of the 14.5's, the shoe and the ride plate are made as one piece. It is "fundamental" that this shoe/ride plate is perfectly sealed to the hull with a high-grade silicone sealer. Herein lies a lot of the cavitation problems experienced by many 14.5 owners. Many of these shoes came from the factory with breeches in the silicone that sealed them to the hull. On these units, no kind of custom prop, etc, can eliminate the cavitation. The pump shoe/ride plate "must" be removed and resealed using "Permitex 66c Industrial Clear Silicone" (available in auto parts stores). Removal of the pump shoe is difficult (usually done with a hydraulic jack between the plate and the rear swim step). Once off, all surfaces must be completely cleaned of the old sealer. It is impossible to over emphasize the absolute importance of have this area attended to. We recommend This procedure for "every" single motor 14.5.
As added insurance to sealing between the pump shoe and pump case, we recommend a foam pump sealing-ring (available from the SD dealer). This inexpensive foam ring assures that there are no unknown gaps in the crucial sealing surface between the pump case and the pump shoe.
Wear Ring - The wear ring is a removable Teflon plastic liner that the impeller spins within. In a perfect world, this ring has no grooves or gouges on its surface, and it fits closely to the impeller’s outside diameter. However there can be considerable cavitation if the wear ring is gouged or grooved (as can happen from digestion of rocks or branches). In addition to the cavitation, a damaged wear ring reduces pump efficiency in a way that can cause the engine to run a few 100 rpm higher than normal (for any given speed). The end result is reduced pump thrust, and reduced fuel range. If your wear ring is damaged in anyway, it’s cost effective to replace it...and then stay away from rocks.
Drive shaft protector - The 14.5's come from the factory with a white plastic sheath that slips over the drive shaft. This free spinning sheath is intended to make it easier to remove ropes that might get wrapped around the drive shaft. Unfortunately, the forces of debris entering the pump often causes this protector to fracture and break apart, thus contributing to cavitation. We chose to cut this protector off at the front of the drive shaft (a small part of it must remain to seal the shaft), thus increasing the pump’s water intake area. At this same time we shortened our dock-lines to a length that would bake it impossible for them the wrap the drive shaft when tied to the cleats on the top deck.
a skat trak in not a speed prop. it hooks up better, and holds contact with the water better. but the blades are actually longer-they stick out forward from the area that stock and other speed props end. it is kinda like big wide tires. more traction, but also a little more drag. and yes, they will slow down more with one direction of turn than the other. has to do with the impeller rotation and the direction water is entering the front.
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