Seizing on the Intake Side

[racerxxx]

Step 1 highlight the spec in the manual that you hand to the machinist. Don't assume they know. Unfortunately, that was your mistake. I always highlight it and I go to the same guy every time.

Even if they used the wrong spec, you would still be less than the actual wear limit. So in that respect they probably dropped the ball. I hope you forgot a zero or are talking mm.

 

[BoLongo]

Racerxxx is right! I should have done a little double checking. Even the best machinist can have a bad day. I found a machinist that does the work for two of the largest Seadoo dealers in my area. You can bet I will be double checking his work.

Andy, the temps, were fine because heat was not an issue. The bore was too big which allowed the piston skirt to slap the cylinder wall causing the scoring.

I think it started with a crank seal which caused the rear cylinder to run lean. I rebuilt the engine using my old machinist; within an hour of the first break-in ride. I had a four corner seizer in the rear cylinder. That was definitely heat related, and the issue of the bore being too small was on the list, but rather than checking the specs myself I took it back to the machinist and asked him to check the specs (my mistake). He told me Seadoo's like to be a bit on the looser side of the specs, at this point I think he is doing his own research on the specs. This last time out I found out the bore was too big, a little too late.

I am encouraged that the rear cylinder is no longer running lean.

The lesson here; always double check some else's work it can save you a lot of money and most of the summer.

 

[racerxxx]

I run my 787's dead in the middle of spec.

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

I never trust other mechanics to do repairs for me. I have paid other people to work on my quads/jet skis/cars/trucks/dirt bikes/etc. Almost every single time, they mess something up or do something out of spec. My favorite is when they misdiagnose a problem and then fix something that doesn't need to be fixed, and the original problem still exists. I have paid less than 10 mechanics to work on my vehicles. Only one time was I happy with the results. I have simply decided to fix all of my own stuff. As it turns out, working on stuff is really easy if you read the manual and buy the correct tools. I can remember when "ring end gap" or taking a head off of an engine was a complete mystery to me. Now its nothing. Rebuilding an engine from the ground up is something that anyone reading this can do, and it will be surprisingly easy, the second time you do it. The first time will take longer, but that doesn't mean it will be harder. Just buy the service manual, and then buy the tools that the manual says you will need. Start with a large clean work area, and take your time. The satisfaction of fixing it yourself is far more valuable then the money you save.