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Second battery

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henryb

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I have been planning to do this upgrade for about a year, been accumulating the bits and pieces that I would need.

- Deep Cycle battery
- large battery tray with straps
- 2-battery switch
- 9' red positive lead with end fittings

Parts that I still need to get:
- negative cable with end fittings

I was hoping to put the heavier Deep Cycle battery on the port side (for balance) right near the intake nozzle for the air pump (might need to reroute that big hose a bit to make room for the battery and tray). See pic.

415.jpg


Couple of questions:
- approx how deep into the hull can the battery tray mount screws go in... Knowing there is no pre-built platform for a tray?
- what do I connect the deep cycle negative lead to... As the primary battery neg-lead goes directly to the starter. I'm thinking just any big bolt on the engine will suffice as a ground?

Thoughts? Ideas?
 
1) Assuming that you are looking at the spot with the stringer... you should be able to get an inch or so.

2) Yes... just bolt the negative to the engine. Any clean bolt is fine. (no paint under it)
 
Thinking about the placement for the 2nd battery a bit more, I had an idea to try and fit it up under the passenger seat hood. There is quite a large storage compartment under there!

Benefits:
- leaves the engine bay untouched, more room for access;
- puts more weight forward and still on port side for balance;
- slightly better access for charging;

Cons:
- not sure if there is anything solid to mount the tray to, the area is lined with styrofoam;
- much longer cables to reach switch and engine ground bolt;

Any thoughts on this mounting position?
 
Long cables suck. AND... they get expensive. Wire has resistance... so to go 10' worth of cable... you will have to go much thicker, if you want to use it as a starting battery. I've remote mounted car batteries, and used welding cable. It less $$$ since it's a common replacement item, but you can't get red and black. (Just black) so you have to be VERY careful while doing the install, and clearly mark the cables. (Put a red heat shrink on the ends of the positive cable)

If there's not a stringer to mount too... then you will have to build a mount. That takes resin, wood, and fiberglass. AND... if it's done poorly... then it's going to pop loose.

Personally... I'd just put it in the engine bay. (less work, and less $$ to do it right)
 
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