Sabr....thanks for the tip to test the pump. I thought you had to start the motor.
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Seadoo XP 2000 will not go over 4000rpm in water reving fine out of water to 7000rpm
- Thread starter Caloute
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SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Nope, the pump will check for water and run, same as the gauges, for 33 seconds on a key press. As will the trim too.
Took me 2 hours to trace a bad ground on that damn pump last fall.
Took me 2 hours to trace a bad ground on that damn pump last fall.
So we put it in water, and no change!!!, rev good under no load, but perform pretty badly on water. I am starting to think this is a combination of a couple of things. I will somehow try to do a compression test. I am just thinking we have not BR8ES in this engine but something as close as it can be, the BR8ES I have are old and bog down at about 3500rpm, I really need to get the BR8ES from overseas, but would it fix the problem? I have yet to try the TRIM back the spark plug line cap by 1/4, as some mention, I have yet to check the cylindrical water box (Mufler is the correct name), for something that might be inside.
I am just wondering about something I had discovered while I first took the jetski out of the garage, some broken black plastic pieces in the steering nozzle/venturi assembly, could this be part of the wear ring? I notice at 4000rpm I am only doing 10mph or 15kmh, I thinking this is a bit slow for that amount of rpm, what do you think? I would like to test the pressure of the fuel system, how can I do this, I read somewhere that an o-ring on the main fuel filter could be leaking. Culd this be an electrical system,how can I diagnose a bad Mpem?
Thanks
I am just wondering about something I had discovered while I first took the jetski out of the garage, some broken black plastic pieces in the steering nozzle/venturi assembly, could this be part of the wear ring? I notice at 4000rpm I am only doing 10mph or 15kmh, I thinking this is a bit slow for that amount of rpm, what do you think? I would like to test the pressure of the fuel system, how can I do this, I read somewhere that an o-ring on the main fuel filter could be leaking. Culd this be an electrical system,how can I diagnose a bad Mpem?
Thanks
AdamXP800
Well-Known Member
That is a lot of questions in there. Yes a damaged wear ring will cause cavitation. The correct spark plugs and gap should be used. Yes the water separator can leak if the seal is bad. If the mpem is recognizing the key, your getting power, and it starts, I doubt the mpem is bad
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Dangit man just check the freaking compression. We can't tell you where to look without it. It is the number one thing we need to help you troubleshoot this thing. It is worthless to put money into trying and fix this thing if you have a low compression motor
did test at wot and not much different at all 105 for both
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
If the compression numbers are accurate then a top end is in your future.
130-135psi is normal.
There is about 2 psi of difference, yes my mind questioned the gauge accuracy, but how do I test the gauge?, with compressor? the ski has I said as less than 20 hour for sure, all I can think of is that it could have be lightly stuck and when try to start off the first time, might have damaged it, I did not want to have to come to opening the engine, but if this is what I have to do, then I will start with removing the head and work my way down!!! But not before I test that gauge somehow!!! I have car/bike/chainsaw etc should I try comp test on that???
Caloute
Yes I read somewhere 951 where about those figuresNot happy with the future!!!!!!!!
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Low compression rebuild time. And just because you think the ski has less than 20 hours from looking on the inside, you have no way to verify that
I spoke to my brother and asked him how many times he put it in the water, and he said 2 or 3 times, so it might very well be less than 10 hours...when I got the the oil tank emptied out cause the oil was old, it was close to full, and that is the first tank of oil they originally put in...so believe me I know this thing has not been used...my father says so, my cousin says so, friend of my brother says so, and of course my bro as well. So mechanically this should be sound...mysterious isn't it.
Krispy
Well-Known Member
Were the head bolts tight? Was the paint disturbed on them when you removed them?
Can you post pics of the head gaskets and sealing surfaces?
Hi Krispy,
The bolt were tight, but got them out easily, the paint un-disturbed, and I am the first one to take the cylinder off I am pretty sure. I will post pictures as soon as can take some. Thank you
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
The ski will not ever run right with 105 compression, even if you replace the head gasket it ain't gunna do nothing. Verify you have a good working compression gauge and if it is good and you have 105 compression plan on a rebuild
Yes I need to check the gauge!!! have to find a way to do that
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