• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Seadoo GTX 255 limited SUNK QUICKLY!

Status
Not open for further replies.
With the 2-strokes, you are correct. With the 4-tecs, all the valves close. Yes, the water WILL come through the exhaust manifold, but it will NOT enter the engine until you crank it. So, removing the exhaust manifold would make more sense to remove the sitting water, but I read that the valve cover needed to be removed to get to the sitting water. I can not confirm that this is correct as far as the valve cover goes, only passing on what the text said.

2- Strokes do not have valves like a four stroke, not sure why this is even mentioned it's irrelevant to this discussion.

I am not debating the closed valves statement it's in the manual not argument there.

I am saying that removing the valve cover will not give you access to any part of the engine that will contain water after water ingestion. Removing the valve cover will let you see the valve springs, rocker arms and cam shaft that's it no access to the intake or exhaust tracts. If you suspect water got where it shouldn't then it would be wise to remove the intake manifold and drain the water then remove the spark plugs so if there is water in the cylinders you will not bend a rod when you hit the start button.
 
It is in the manual. When the engine is turned off on a 4-tec, all valves are in the closed position. This was done to help prevent water ingestion if you fall off and the engine is shut down via the cord. Does it work perfectly? No. As water can and does sit on top of the valves and does enter the cylinder when you crank it. I would think the only way to prevent this is to pull the valve cover and remove the water BEFORE you crank the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm chastising Seadoo then, for trying to make it sound like shutting the motor off protects it somehow. If you suspect water has entered the cylinders the best course of action is to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over while holding the throttle full WOT to shut off fuel supply (flooded cranking mode).

I do disagree Seadoo did something special, it's pretty common for hydraulic lifters to bleed off over a period of time enough for the valves to close. Sometimes one ot two valves will be slightly open depending. I've used this feature myself before on other engines for setting up intake manifold vacuum leak checking, it's nothing special in my experience, for lifters to bleed off.

Some high performance cammed motors though actually make use of high bleed rate lifters to soften up a high lift cam. The idea is during low speed the bleed rate is great enough to allow for less overlap thus idle is smoother even though the cam has aggressive lift.

So to me, I'm thinking Seadoo is stretching the truth somewhat, water in a cylinder exhaust port will spill right into the cylinder as soon as the valve opens anyway and if the intake doesn't have drain holes puddled water get sucked in.

So it's better IMO to simply say IF there's some reason to suspect water flooding remove spark plugs and crank the engine, then do a few other checks for water collected in places it shouldnt be, such as the crankcase oil and intake system as necessary. I don't have an 4-tec in front of me so hard to suggest in detail, just concept.
 
Sportster,,

I fully understand... If it were mine and I even THOUGHT there was water there, I'd not be cranking the engine at all. I'd tear it down and or pull the plugs and BUMP it over....
 
Maybe thats why i was lucky for this above reason...

Next time your engine won't run make sure to look into the bilge and be sure it's not huffing on water, this can bend internal components and break pistons and damage crankshaft bearings. Thus if it's huffing water then shut it down or don't start it, regardless of whether "the vales close automatically", it's just silly to think in those terms.

And if it happens, you need to know the procedure for expelling the water, not feel warm and fuzzy about some silly claim.
 
Sportster,,

I fully understand... If it were mine and I even THOUGHT there was water there, I'd not be cranking the engine at all. I'd tear it down and or pull the plugs and BUMP it over....

Yes, I know this is what you would do, absolutely you know this. I just wanted to clarify in case someone read this passage in the manual thinking everything was a-okay.

As far as huffing water into an engine goes, especially a ski, it's not IF but WHEN seems like. :)

For instance, I got a little water in my airbox this summer while testing my bilge pump which surprise, surprise, failed to work! I had removed one of the bilge plugs allowing water to fill the bilge while waiting for the float switch to kick on and guess what, this time it didn't, the electric motor was rusted. :O
 
Yes, I know this is what you would do, absolutely you know this. I just wanted to clarify in case someone read this passage in the manual thinking everything was a-okay.

As far as huffing water into an engine goes, especially a ski, it's not IF but WHEN seems like. :)

For instance, I got a little water in my airbox this summer while testing my bilge pump which surprise, surprise, failed to work! I had removed one of the bilge plugs allowing water to fill the bilge while waiting for the float switch to kick on and guess what, this time it didn't, the electric motor was rusted. :O

agree.

I didn't mean to open a can of worms on the valve subject, I will stress that my initial advice follows what everybody seems to agree on now that its been hashed out.


I was reminded by my tuner just last week that if your taking on water like this the most important thing is to not run the engine, when its off the valves are closed and you nearly eliminate the water intrusion into the engine concerns. So the best thing that may have happened was that you were off and docked.

Just a mental note to remember that even if your out 5 miles from the ramp, better to shut-r-down and get towed than to start up the engine and try to make it back under your own power.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top