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Sea-Doo Supercharger Rebuild Service

Use 3/16th bubble wrap on the supercharger and add filler to the box so it doesn't move around. There is an angle that you can find (exit tube toward corner) that makes it fit better. There will be about a 1/2" bulge. We haven't any any problems yet shipping them this way as long as you pad it well.

Hell...we've had some people just put it in a large flatrate without any padding or filler. When we get those, the box looks terrible, supercharger was no doubt beat around, but mechanically they are fine.
 
Cant wait!!!!!!!!! PWC did a fast turn around on my S/C today kids and I will be on the lake soon Thanks to the hard working guys at PWC muscle. This is the second one they have done for me as always fast and very professional..
 
Red Locktite on the threads. A warning. Loosely install the two bottom bolts, then do the top. The Locktite will dry and all of a sudden the bolt gets HARD to turn. Next time I will use permatex on the top. Then pull the bottoms, put some red on one and ratchet it in. Then the last one.
 
Go with Blue next time. The removal video has a correction....the bottles that we use are all red, but the type of loctite is 'blue'.
 
Cant wait!!!!!!!!! PWC did a fast turn around on my S/C today kids and I will be on the lake soon Thanks to the hard working guys at PWC muscle. This is the second one they have done for me as always fast and very professional..

You got it! Thank you for the repeat business :cheers:
 
I'm good with the blue, the red makes is no fun and no time to screw around.

I'll have all new bolts for my next rebuild as I could feel the star head start to fail in the top bolt even before it was right.
 
I overnighted both of my superchargers to you yesterday. Hopefully you received them by now. Im hoping I can receive them back by Saturday "fingers crossed" , I've heard you guy have a great turn around time. Any ideas where I can get new mounting bolts for the chargers? I'd like to put new ones in. Thanks
 
We received them yesterday and turned around same day for you. Expedited gets them rebuild fast!

For the bolts, check Ace Hardware. Just make sure to get stainless with the same length and thread and you'll be fine. The ones from Sea-Doo are ~$3 per bolt.
 
Thinking about sending my SC to be rebuilt from you guys. Question, it just failed and it does already have steel washers but I am concerned if the bearings failed. So if I sent the SC to you.how would I know without taking it apart myself to know if I need to do more extensive engine work. When I checked it it did spin freely not loose but spun with little resistance. and I am on the west coast in Oregon if I expressed mailed it to you could I have it back in a week. We are leaving on vacation and want to take them on August 24th
 
I'll let you know as soon as is being rebuilt if there are missing components. You can take a picture of the gear area and post it here and I can let you know. For the bearings and internals, it is harder to tell without having in in hand.

Time-wise, you're good in a good spot. We return ship USPS Priority so it'll be back 2-3 days after we complete the rebuild.
 
Thanks, that sounds great,soon as I get this removed I will take a picture and post it here to get your feedback. Thanks again
 
Well got it out. Will send you some pics here. All bearings look intact. There was some fine shavings in the oil filter. One of the pics show the worst finn on the filter, most all the rest of Finns were clean. Do you think that will be an issue? I also sent a pic of inside the hole of motor where The supercharger came out. Do you see any issues there? image.jpg image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Well Joe, I pulled the front oil suction pump. Wasn't much in the screen I'll send you a pic. The gears in the housing look good to me. Would like to know what you think. I know you said the next step would be to pull the rear of the engine. But is there anywhere else you think I could look first before I tear into that to where the pieces might be at also? When I sucked oil out of the engine I ran it through a fine screen while I was pumping it and there was absolutely nothing in the screen I'll come out superclean. Would appreciate any opinion or thoughts you have.
Thanks, Jeff
 
Well Joe, I pulled the front oil suction pump. Wasn't much in the screen I'll send you a pic. The gears in the housing look good to me. Would like to know what you think. I know you said the next step would be to pull the rear of the engine. But is there anywhere else you think I could look first before I tear into that to where the pieces might be at also? When I sucked oil out of the engine I ran it through a fine screen while I was pumping it and there was absolutely nothing in the screen I'll come out superclean. Would appreciate any opinion or thoughts you have.
Thanks, Jeff

There are two oil screens. You need to investigate the second one now. If you get a chance, please start a new thread and post your pictures and questions in there. It will help get you additional answers plus will document for others what is needed to do this.
 
OK will do, I assume by second screen you're referring to the one on the back of the motor that you have to remove the driveshaft correct? by chance do you guys sell that tool to remove the driveshaft?
 
OK will do, I assume by second screen you're referring to the one on the back of the motor that you have to remove the driveshaft correct? by chance do you guys sell that tool to remove the driveshaft?

Replying to this on your new thread to help keep this one on topic.
 
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