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SBT crapola

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DeanBrantley

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So I took my brand new SBT 720 engine number 2 and installed. Backed the old speedster off my ramp to give initial test fire. Low and behold she's locked up tight. Drag her out and took 2 days to pull the motor. After screwing around another 5 hours found out it was the rotary valve cover. Here's how. Clearances were right on, 0.13 inches, but every time I tightened the last nut, the motor would lock up??? Took it back to SBT found out when they machine these covers they don't compensate for the area where the rotary valve gear fits into the cover so the flat face of the gear compression binds to the cover when you tighten it. So whats their solution you may ask? Go fix it yourself, machine it, dremal it, whatever. Their engine, their cover, your problem. Oh yea, they said they knew about this!!!!! Wow could of saved me a little time ya think. Maybe even could of gone boating before it cools down...NOT. Ok Ok a bitchy sailor is a happy sailor so they say, but if you ever put on a SBT rotary valve cover check for good clearance on the gear.Rotary 3.jpg
 
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Oh no thought I was done, everything hooked back up, no start. Relay/solenoid clicking starter not turning over. That's right my brand new (has been cranked about 6-7 times) SBT high torque starter is broke. Took it out put it on the bench, applied 12V, nothing! The positive post nut spins when you try to tighten the cable nut so I took off the end cap and I couldn't believe it. A $100 starter and the positive wire post is kept from spinning and snapping the supply wire by a piece of square plastic you can break between your thump and finger. They could actually machine the hole and post square and it would never turn and snap the wire but that might cost another 25 cents. How much you want to bet they know this!starter 1.jpgstarter 2.jpg Moral of this story....If you buy a SBT starter make sure you have a super slim 10mm wrench to keep the first nut, closest to the starter body from turning, its difficult with the exhaust on but the alternative could cost you $$$
 
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Oh no thought I was done, everything hooked back up, no start. Relay/solenoid clicking starter not turning over. That's right my brand new (has been cranked about 6-7 times) SBT high torque starter is broke. Took it out put it on the bench, applied 12V, nothing! The positive post nut spins when you try to tighten the cable nut so I took off the end cap and I couldn't believe it. A $100 starter and the positive wire post is kept from spinning and snapping the supply wire by a piece of square plastic you can break between your thump and finger. They could actually machine the hole and post square and it would never turn and snap the wire but that might cost another 25 cents. How much you want to bet they know this!View attachment 38188View attachment 38189 Moral of this story....If you buy a SBT starter make sure you have a super slim 10mm wrench to keep the first nut, closest to the starter body from turning, its difficult with the exhaust on but the alternative could cost you $$$

I just replaced my DB starters ($45 way back when, the bendix spring was not returning with force. Lasted 8 years) with a Branded DENSO starter. for $200 shipped.for the pain that it is to get to the starter on the Sportster I am not excited I paid as much, but it should delay it's replacement considerably.

The other starter was still OK, although a little slow. After 8 years...for $47...not too shabby.

I think SBT starter can't be that much better than $40 DB starter. so go big or go bold. DB for $48, or Denso $187.50+shipping

My humble thoughts for next time.
 
I am with you. I had a "catastrophic" failure. SBT had not put enough grease in the counterbalance shaft and it went through the side of the engine after 1 month of use. They did send a new one but it still costed a boatload of labor. The warranty basically means nothing because they don't cover labor. I do not trust SBT anymore for engines.

When they sent the replacement engine I voided the warranty and had my mechanic open it. Sure enough, again there was very little grease. So I had my mechanic grease it and it ran perfect.
 
Starters I buy used OEM ones. They are good priced and they usually only fail from water and running them to long to start you ski. I am surprised that SBT doesn't machine the covers to OEM specs. More is better than less I guess. They could tell you to make installs cater.
 
I am with you. I had a "catastrophic" failure. SBT had not put enough grease in the counterbalance shaft and it went through the side of the engine after 1 month of use. They did send a new one but it still costed a boatload of labor. The warranty basically means nothing because they don't cover labor. I do not trust SBT anymore for engines.

When they sent the replacement engine I voided the warranty and had my mechanic open it. Sure enough, again there was very little grease. So I had my mechanic grease it and it ran perfect.

You're supposed to use oil, not grease.

Starters I buy used OEM ones. They are good priced and they usually only fail from water and running them to long to start you ski. I am surprised that SBT doesn't machine the covers to OEM specs. More is better than less I guess. They could tell you to make installs cater.

New or used, OEM is the only way to go with starters.

Chester
 
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