sand in the engine?

[Toolanddiemaker]

I was going ahead on a top end rebuild because of bad compression readings and I noticed sand in the jug sides is this something to be concerned about? this is my first time rebuilding a boat so i'm a little unsure of a few things I think it's ok because those sides are sealed away from the engine ports but I just wanted to make sure. I flushed the engine before storing it in the garage but flushing must not get thick sand out? on my last run I did hit bottom sucking up rocks and destroying my impellers:facepalm: so I guess I get why its there. I don't see any trace of sand in the pistons just the jug sides. any suggestions thanks!

 

[Seadoobuddy]

YES, get the sand out of there. If in the water jacket lines it will block the cooling ability and prevent water from draining which will cause the jugs to crack if frozen.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Generally speaking, the sand also gets caught at the elbows and the smaller fittings along the way.

You will need to back flush all the lines. 2-strokes are cooled by the water they are running in. Thus,,, you suck up sand and it only has one place to go. Through the engine cooling system.

4-tech engines have a closed loop system which really cuts down on over heat issues as the cooling water only passes through a heat exchanger, not the engine at all.

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

YES, get the sand out of there. If in the water jacket lines it will block the cooling ability and prevent water from draining which will cause the jugs to crack if frozen.

Ok thanks! I was going to shop vac it all out. Should I be worried about the port side engine? I wasn't planning on taking that engine apart but if need be I guess I could to vac out the jugs. Or could I just wait until I can flush that one in the spring? Thanks for the advise!

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

Generally speaking, the sand also gets caught at the elbows and the smaller fittings along the way.

You will need to back flush all the lines. 2-strokes are cooled by the water they are running in. Thus,,, you suck up sand and it only has one place to go. Through the engine cooling system.

4-tech engines have a closed loop system which really cuts down on over heat issues as the cooling water only passes through a heat exchanger, not the engine at all.

Is there a thread on back flushing I havnt done that yet and thanks for clarifying that it doesn't reach the engine I was a little worried!

 

[Coastiejoe]

Yes, the port engine too.

It is very unlikely that the port engine is any different as it is set up exactly the same way. And,,,, if you ran over a sand bar with the STBD then you ran over it with the Port as well.

There are many threads about back flushing. Don't recall if there is one that provides great details on it though.

In most cases the elbow just before the head gets plugged and causes an over heat issue. The fact that you have sand in your engine I would think your line isn't plugged. That and you were not over heating prior to tear down.

That said, I'd back flush no matter what just to be safe.

Disconnect lines and joints and blow it out with air or water in reverse.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Double post,,,

 

[LouDoo]

Get rid of those grey fuel lines, clean the fuel system, clean or overhaul the carbs., sorry to be so blunt, but if you don't your going to be looking at bigger problems than sand in the engine.

Lou

 

[Coastiejoe]

If you are not familiar with what Lou stated let us know.

He is 100% correct.

 

[Dr Honda]

Sand is normal... but not good. People like to "Beach" their toys, but then don't really shut off the engine until they touch, or are in VERY shallow water. If you beach your boat.... head in a straight line, and kill the engine while you are in at least 2 feet of water, and drift in. Then, push the boat out before starting.


Regardless... Lou and Coastie have you covered.

 

[Guest_User]

ditto on everything above, but I`ll add my 2 cents worth...

not only replace the fuel lines, replace ALL the water lines as well and go thru every fitting and orfice... chances are the sand made it everywhere in the system... buy new hose, clamps or zip ties and go to town!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-tubing/=plsnrf

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

ditto on everything above, but I`ll add my 2 cents worth...

not only replace the fuel lines, replace ALL the water lines as well and go thru every fitting and orfice... chances are the sand made it everywhere in the system... buy new hose, clamps or zip ties and go to town!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-tubing/=plsnrf

Thanks for all the help guys! Sounds like I have some work to do at least I have all winter.

Wow there are a lot of hoses to choose from do I need the chem restiant clear hose for the fuel lines? And do the water lines need to be high pressure?

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

Get rid of those grey fuel lines, clean the fuel system, clean or overhaul the carbs., sorry to be so blunt, but if you don't your going to be looking at bigger problems than sand in the engine.

Lou

No worries on being blunt I respect blunt!!!

When I was reading threads I did come across a few that said these gray fuel lines were crappy so I will defiantly be replacing them!
One thing I am curious about is fuel pressure do you loose pressure when these lines are disconnected and when all is replaced and I'm ready to run is there any procedure to pressurize or does the fuel pump just set everything in place for you sorry for the stupid question but I'm green when it comes to fuel systems. Thanks!!!

 

[Guest_User]

Boats are required to have USCG approved fuel lines. I mix it up a bit and use polyurethane or tygon between the remote pumps and carbs. I use A1 fuel hose from the tank to the filter and then to the fuel pumps. (remote pumps on the challenger 1800)

1/2 heater hose for the cooling, poly or tygon for the smaller diameter cooling hoses.
Silicone hose or marine exhaust hose for the exhaust couplers...

good metal tang zip ties and oetiker clamps. You`ll need the tool to install them...

have a quick trip thru my build thread to get an idea and look at some pictures...

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

Boats are required to have USCG approved fuel lines. I mix it up a bit and use polyurethane or tygon between the remote pumps and carbs. I use A1 fuel hose from the tank to the filter and then to the fuel pumps. (remote pumps on the challenger 1800)

1/2 heater hose for the cooling, poly or tygon for the smaller diameter cooling hoses.
Silicone hose or marine exhaust hose for the exhaust couplers...

good metal tang zip ties and oetiker clamps. You`ll need the tool to install them...

have a quick trip thru my build thread to get an idea and look at some pictures...

Ok thanks! I will use that info as a ref when I buy, I just ripped everything apart and got the top end off so all the hoses are next.
Man these boats are a pain to work on I'm sore as hell now I know why you guys take the engines out to work on them! just need the engine alignment tool.

Your build threads are super detailed so im sure I will fig the hoses out thanks!