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rotary valve

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jake2323

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i took my 720 out this weekend and my nephew was riding it. i was breaking in my new gti se and i found him broke down .we cant get it to start so we put on the trailer and finish the day out. well this morning im pulling the carbs and noticed one bolt missing, uh oh ah now im hateing it you guessed it already i bet it went down pass the jet and into the rotary valve assy.i look at the valve and its chewed up a little. the mag hole is damaged a little but could be grinded smooth it realy not a big nick i cant see anything else in the area but the snap ring is starting to pop out now my question is should i rebuild the rotary valve spline or should replace rotary valve and snap ring put it together and see what it does now i bought this seadoo for 350.00 dollars is worth rebuilding or just going for it.
 
No year model.....

It's hard to work with just the engine size. I hope more people will put the info in their public profiles so we can give them more help.

I'd take off the rotary cover, without removing the rotary valve itself. That way, you won't have to re-time it. If this valve (plate) is nicked or bent, it will have to be replaced. Make a mark on each side of the motor as to where each edge of this plate is, so when you remove it, you'll be able to put a new one on without worrying about setting the timing. Just don't spin the crankshaft.

You might have gotten luck and it spit the bolt out the other end. Hope it's not still in the engin.
 
bolt

i found the bolt lodge in the rotary valve and the mag hole i had too take rotary valve out to get it from being lodge in thereit goudge the hole a little can i grind it down smooth or is it done for and how do i time it since i took rotary valve off
 
spline

oh ya how about the snap ring on the spline it look like it came out a little iif i take snap ring out nothing will pop out like from a spring right im going to put new snap ring and rotary valve in and my jet ski is a 1993 sp hull with a 1995 717 engine in
 
Luck!.....

Wow, you were in luck then. Did the rotary valve strip on the shaft from the sudden stop? Do the splines of the shaft look o.k.? There is a spring on the shaft inside the casing, so you'll need to keep pressure on the shaft while changing it. But I fear your going to have more damage than what you see. The worm gear of the rotary shaft is made of brass and is splined on the shaft you see in front of you. It's likely that with the sudden stop of the rotary valve, the crank continued to spin and stripped that brass gear out. So, if your able to keep that shaft in place with pressure while replacing the circlip, I suggest you take that old rotary plate, bend it in a way you can use it as a handle of some sort, put it back on that spined shaft, then try turning it. If you can turn the shaft passed one of the compression strokes of the engine, it may be o.k......but I'm pretty sure that shaft is going to be stripped.
The casing, yeah, you should be able to just clean it up. With the age of the motor, I'd not worry about it to much. Look for casing cracks around the area that the bolt was wedged into.
 
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