Reverse cable help

[Andy4k6]

I am trying to refit the reverse cables to my 95 speedster and after over 3 hours of messing about I still can't get them fitted.

My issue is with the shifter, I just can't get it to fit with the cables attached. Every time I push it into position the angle of the cables is too tight and locks the shifter upccompletely.

I'm unsure if it is due to the old cables being too stiff or ssomething else, can anyone advise how the cables should fit and ssuggestions as to how to get it to fit.

many thanks

Andy

 

[ialonso]

I am trying to refit the reverse cables to my 95 speedster and after over 3 hours of messing about I still can't get them fitted.

My issue is with the shifter, I just can't get it to fit with the cables attached. Every time I push it into position the angle of the cables is too tight and locks the shifter upccompletely.

I'm unsure if it is due to the old cables being too stiff or ssomething else, can anyone advise how the cables should fit and ssuggestions as to how to get it to fit.

many thanks

Andy

This is a point of no return, and there is some controversy about lubricating the cable, as it is not a factory approved procedure...it is what it is...If you feel the cable is bound (as in, the gate moves with effort by hand...)

unscrew the cable end from the lever and fit a hose all the way to the bottom thread. use a clamp to secure the hose to the cable at the lowest point after inserting, Then put some oil in the open end of the hose (which is now a sheath over the cable), then use a bike pump or air compressor to get the oil to push through the cable. It may spill at the back of the boat once it goes all the way thru the cable.) Once you feel you have pushed a good amount of oil thru, Try moving the rear reserve gate manually and check for binding. It should move totally effortlessly. Smooth as silk. If you can't get it working this way, you may need a new cable. (It's a pain to replace, but doable. Just the part where the nut needs to be turned very far away at the very back of the boat is a bit difficult.)

Good Luck.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

There should be a ton of room for the cables in that space under the helm controller, is it possible one of the support brackets is on upside down or the cable clamp is mounted in the wrong hole(s)? Original routing path is often important when space is tight.

 

[Andy4k6]

I have already lubricated the cables and although not as free as the new steering cables I have just fitted they can be moved by hand.

The brackets all appear to be correct and they have not been moved or changed since I stripped the boat 12 months ago.

I wonder if the issue is the outer cable being too stiff and stopping it from bending the way it is supposed to bend.

As I try to feed the shifter in the cables move back and have loads of slack in the engine bay and this causes the cable to bend at the nuts and locks the cable up.

Andy

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Any differences between the new cables and originals? Sounds like now too much cable? Okay yeah then, I think I understand the problem you're running into.

This is one reason why it's muy importante the replacement cables are the same length as close as possible to the originals b/c sometimes there just isn't any place to relocate extra cable and well, if too short, it's impossible to stretch them!

So if your cables weren't too long now then there wouldn't be a sharp bend at the controller in the helm, correct? And yes, a sharp bend there will definitely lock-up the cables!

So is it possible to find space in the bilge for the "extra" length of cable to place longer radius bend and gently "use up" the excess length?

I'm guessing if you disconnected the cables in the bilge/transom and slung them over the transom the controller would operate just fine?

You may need to get a better fitting cable, one that's not too long.

 

[Andy4k6]

The cables are original seadoo and are the the very same cables I removed 12 months ago, the only difference is they have been lubricated and refitted. The issue I think is due to the stiffness of the old cables ( may be the original 1995 cables). I have decided I am going to try heating the cable up slightly to try and get it more flexible and get someone to stop the cables moving back while I try to refit the shifter and warm cables.

I think the cable should drop down from the shifter into a void below the shifter then come back out the void before heading to the back of the boat.

At the moment the cable doesn't go into the void it tries to go directly to the back of the boat bending the cable at the nuts where it fits to the shifter.

if it went down the void and then back out on it's way to the back it wouldn't be putting a sharp bend on the cable.

Andy

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

If those cables are the originals or replacements, it will be necessary to route them precisely as they originally were. For example, if they originally went straight down from the shifter then you'll need to duplicate that (somehow). the entire route is important b/c length dictates the angle the cable takes as it approaches the ferrules crimped on the ends. For instance, if the cable has been run around the port side of motor as opposed to under, this will use up length and the cable will be too short, causing it to bind in the end ferrule due to a tight bend.

It would be better to find something permanent to fasten the cables to such as using plastic tie-wraps and a block of wood epoxied in place if necessary, to fasten them where they need to be as opposed to attempting to modify them, IMO.

FWIW, If the cables are worn out or damaged, it's advisable to replace them. I replace lots of cables when they begin to bind, always money well spent. Lubricating them rarely resolves any problems due to the way they're constructed.

 

[Andy4k6]

In all honesty feeling how free the steering cables are I would love to replace them but unfortunately I don't have a spare $400 to do so. I will possibly look to replace the cables next year however so far I have spent around $4500 getting to the point I am now and haven't even seen the water with it yet.

I will try a few methods tomorrow to try and get the cable back to it's original shape and see how it works, I am intending on getting the boat in the water for the first time since I bought it almost 18 moths ago in September and will see how they perform then if they are troublesome I shall have to save for some new one's to be shipped over.

Many thanks

Andy

 

[Andy4k6]

My issues may well have been partly my own fault.

I forgot the shifter will not move when the throttle is off idle.

However I have managed to get the cable back into the correct position and the cable is free and perfect for reverse although it is a bit stiff going forward possibly due to a kink on the inner cable for one of them.

Thanks for all the help.

Andy