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Replacing Fuel pump on 2002 Chev Avalanche?

BMANN06

Well-Known Member
Morning Guys, kinda going waaaay off topic here.

I've got to replace the fuel pump on my truck. Its sitting in my driveway right now, and I was wondering if I can drop the tank with the truck on all 4wheels. I have the option to get it towed to my buddies shop and get it on a lift. I was just wondering if I could save myself the hassle of towing/pulling it and have the clearance to drop the tank and get it out of the way of the frame rails and just do it in my driveway. Anybody know if its doable? Or am I pulling this rig to a lift?

:cheers:
 
the easiest way on the pickups was to pull the bed off, but that obviously won't work on an avalanche. you'll probably need at least some extra space, unless its almost empty (and thus light) and you feel like dropping one end of the tank and working on it with you wedged up under the truck. even then you'll need room to pull the pump assembly out the top of the tank. assuming the truck doesn't run, i'd guess it would be tough to put it on ramps, but if you could get the rear end up it would probably give you the space you need. problem is most people fill their tank up right before the pump quits for good so you likely have 28 gallons or so of fuel to wrestle out from under the truck.

if you tow it to the shop, have a tow service take it if its farther than a mile, the automatic trans relies on the engine spinning the front pump for lubrication so if you flat tow it you could end up killing the trans.
 
I asked at work today, some of the newer vehicles have an access hole under the seat or in the floor, unfortunately this ain't one of them, so yes you need to drop the tank.

Lou
 
I'm curious myself. Mine is till gonig strong. I know a couple people who have dont it on a standard chevy truck and pulling the bed was a piece of cake. Wonder how hard it would be to pull it off? I havent even bothered looking under it. Let me know what you find out.
 
Honda is nice... they give you an access hole. On the Avi... you got to drop the tank. It's really not a big deal unless you live where it snows, and the bolts are rusted.
 
Thanks a ton guys.

Strizzo, if I put transfer case in neutral buy, put shift lever in N, then hold 4HI and 4LO for 10sec then shift to reverse. This gives me the red LED "Neutral" in the driveterrain selector switch, am I okay to flat tow in this mode? I always thought thats what it was for.

Hey Foster good to hear yours is still going (they ain't cheap $300 via a friends cost), but since our rigs are more of a Surburban than silverado/sierra we have no choice but to drop the tank.

I'll tow it to a lift got about 1/4 tank but that'll still make for a heavy tank to try an manuver on in the driveway.

Again thanks a lot guys!!

Super appreciate the advice and tips!
 
I use to frequent the avalanche forum a lot. So i just went and searched there. The part of the tank you need to access is actually right under the rear seat. Most people access it by cutting a hole in the floor. Here is a good thread on it.

http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=119409.0

I wouldnt really want to cut a hole in the floor, but that appears to be the method most people use to replace it. After seeing this though...makes me kinda nervous having 2 kids in the back seat riding on the gas tank.
 
Thanks for the link, I've been on that forum for a bit too.

:o I don't think I'll cut a hole in my floor!! Seen lots a guys do it in the bed of their pickups though. I crawled under there today to see what kinda shape the fasteners are in and lucky they aren't even rusted. (that undercoating I did a couple years back may have just saved my ass from cutting out the floor of my truck Lolz.)
 
sometimes, u can tap on bottom of tank with a rubber mallot, while someone is cranking it, and it will start, then u can probably drive to your buddies house instead of towing it, we do it on dodge pickups all the time, then drive em into the shop -- after all, its an electric pump
 
Thanks griz def. worth a try shop is about a mile from my house. When i turn ignition to run, you can hear the pump grindin pretty bad though. But I will for sure try that! Thanks!
 
set up on a lift, with a fuel tank jack, its like a 45 minute job with air tools here in florida, rusted probably like where u and doc are from, u might wanna spray down bolts now, and again maybe a couple a times before u do the job with some pb blaster, lol, here in fla we dont use it on a fla vehicle, only them vacationing northerner"s vehicles....
 
set up on a lift, with a fuel tank jack, its like a 45 minute job with air tools here in florida, rusted probably like where u and doc are from, u might wanna spray down bolts now, and again maybe a couple a times before u do the job with some pb blaster, lol, here in fla we dont use it on a fla vehicle, only them vacationing northerner"s vehicles....

Don't rub it in or anything... LoLs
 
:lol:That's what I would do too. Go to the dealership on a Saturday when the shop is closed and put the truck up on a lift.

Lou
 
Jack up the back, put it on stands under the frame so diff hangs down, have it out in no time.. Been GM mechanic for 18yr done alot of them on the floor. Get a buddy to give you a hand and drop it down with a floor jack... done and done. Or book it in at the shop here, book time is 3.3hr + diag + shop supplies + tax... I have mortgage to pay for too.. lol.
 
sorry for the hit and run, yeah if you have a way to put the transfer case in neutral you can flat tow that way. be sure to set the parking brake though, Park won't work!
 
sorry for the hit and run, yeah if you have a way to put the transfer case in neutral you can flat tow that way. be sure to set the parking brake though, Park won't work!

Thanks and understood with parking brake,

I've got the pump in and my rig back on the road so many thanks for all the help to everybody!!
 
Did you do it yourself? If so, how bad was it really?

Yup did it myself not bad at all. Did do it on a lift, but as polarisfreak mentioned it can be done on all four. I know its a seadoo forum but here what i did.

Once you get the ol' girl on the lift. (btw siphone out as much fuel as you can)

1. Undo the filler neck hose and filler vent hose (hose clamps)
2. Take off the tank support straps. 1 bolt each. (used a transmission jack to hold up tank)
3. Undo the two EVAP lines at evap canister, 1 big one, 1 little one.
4. I had to remove evap canister, may not have too (just the design of the lift didn't allow me to drop tank) two bolts.
5. Drop tank at the back a bit so you can see top of pump, then remove the two electrical connectors.
6. Drop tank all the way (will come right out now)
7. I used a mallot and a chisel to remove the metal ring that seats the pump.
8. Remove pump and replace pump with float. Assembly is the essentially the reverse.

Do not do this without the tool to remove the pressure and return fuel lines. Just not worth the headache, I just did and had to make a trip to parts store to get the white plastic clips PITA.
 
Sorry Chevy lovers -

Detroit— General Motors Co. said Friday that it is ending production of the Chevrolet Avalanche after a more than a decade run because of sagging sales.

The vehicle, which debuted as a 2002 model, has offered buyers interior space of an SUV and cargo truck capability and aided to the growing popularity of crew cab, or four-door pickups. Sales of 93,482 peaked in 2003 but by last year were only about 20,000.

The Avalanche, built at GM's Silao, Mexico plant, is part of the company's full-size truck program. GM will introduce all-new versions of its full-size trucks next year.

"As we're transitioning to the next generation of that program, there just wasn't enough volume to justify doing another updated version of the Avalanche," said Tom Wilkinson, a GM spokesman.

The Avalanche's 2013 model will begin production in June, and GM will build a full model year, Wilkinson said.

"More than 580,000 Avalanches have been sold since its introduction in 2001, and Avalanche has won major awards and recognitions throughout its run," said Mark Clawson, Avalanche marketing manager, in a statement. "So it is only fitting that Avalanche retires on a high note."

GM said it will offer a unique 2013 Black Diamond model in the Avalanche's final year of production. Black Diamond Avalanches will include a unique badge and more features on the LS and LT models and lower pricing. It will also be available in an LTZ trim.

Base prices have been cut by $2,500 for 2013, GM said. A two-wheel drive Avalanche LS now starts at $35,980, plus a $995 dealer freight charge.

"The average Chevy Avalanche currently sells for $45,198, which is remarkably — and perhaps off-puttingly — high for a pick-up truck," Edmunds.com senior analyst Jessica Caldwell said in a statement. "Avalanche sales volumes plummeted during the 2008 recession and never recovered despite high levels of incentives on its hood."

Sales of the Avalanche were up 25.9 percent in March to 2,083 units sold vs. 1,655 during the same month a year ago.

The 2013 Avalanche LS models will come standard with features including a rear camera, rear park assist, power adjustable pedals, fog lamps and remote start.

From The Detroit News: http://www.detroitnews.com/article/20120413/AUTO0103/204130394#ixzz1rwvip4YU
 
Well that stinks. I love the truck. I planned on not owning anything but an avalanche. I think they are way overpriced new, but planned to look for a 2010 ish one next year. Guess if i keep buying a used one thats a few years old every 5 years, I'm good till about 2020. LOL
 
Well that stinks. I love the truck. I planned on not owning anything but an avalanche. I think they are way overpriced new, but planned to look for a 2010 ish one next year. Guess if i keep buying a used one thats a few years old every 5 years, I'm good till about 2020. LOL

Exactly what I'll be doing.
 
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