• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Re-sealing ride shoes vs. new wear ring/seal/pump rebuild?

Status
Not open for further replies.
uraceulose said:
Do you guys happen to know if a zip tie will suffice for the front on that driveshaft on the boot that holds the grease in? I saved the little clamp and can probably reuse but the zip ties sure make it easier!
Click to expand...

A zip tie will work, but I prefer the otekier clamp that originally came on them. With the proper tool you can keep reusing them for a lifetime.

Shop around you can probably get them locally for teh same or less
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-Boot-Clamp-Plier/dp/B0002SREB8
 
Just looked at your pics. You have a different kind. they take a different tool, but I think are still reusable.
 
It is definitely reusable...I just didn't know if it weakened the "spring mechanism" in the clamp when removing it.

Thanks so much for the help,

DZ
 
I'll see if using the service manual part number for the pliers (if they're listed), maybe use the cross reference part number with a set off of amazon to be sure?

DZ

By the way, if I upgrade to premium member and pay the $10/month...what do I gain as far as how-to articles and is there any more detailed/depth service manuals that are available?
 
Is this okay? In the videos I’ve seen the collar slides over the o ring or metal half ring..mine seems to be fully seated but the collar isn’t easily sliding over?2FFA9294-62F9-4CDD-A31A-06509FC644DB.jpeg94D5BF2C-C00D-455C-A140-77EF2ED7239D.jpeg
 
That’s no grease in the PTO zerk fitting yet by the way. But when I try to wiggle the bellows/carbon ring/collar it doesn’t want to slide right over that metal half o ring.
I also tried sliding the bellows back and pushing down on the metal half o ring a couple times to see if it was fully seated.

The grease, penetrating oil and the right angle on that collar make a big difference in how easily it slides
 
The clip appears to not be seated in the groove all the way. Rotate the shaft so the open side of the clip is down. Take a flat blade screw driver as put out on the clip. Take your palm add bang the clip down.
 
I banged on that thing every which way, lubed it up a little bit...pushed while the collar was freed from it and right up against it...just cannot get that collar to seat properly over the c-clip!!


I went ahead and ordered a couple more C-clips to see if maybe it is just a little bit too large or something. Trying to get the other side pulled apart so I can see if it will work on that side. I tried to use the other C-clip I had but I dropped it UNDER the engine of course and it's not magnetic.

Thanks again for all the help, eventually I'll get it!
 
Any other suggestions? I’ve banged every which way and tried 3 different C clips...the new ones I just got say specifically for the 720 engine on the package and feel a little “thinner” than the other 2 that came with the carbon seal rebuilt kits that I bought. The one in the photos that is mounted on the boat is the new thinner one(s) and I even tried putting grease on the C clips to make the collar slide over it.
Pics coming..
 
Believe it or not in that one photo with the 2 c clips side-by-side, one of those c clips
is a slight bit thicker than the other one
 
I would use the old stainless steel C clip, however it was non existent. In its place was one of the rubber O-rings that rides in the groove. In my case, the rubber O-ring was worn to the point where the stainless steel collar that is supposed to seat on the rubber O-ring had slid over it. When I removed the carbon seal, collar, bellows etc. I cut the O ring so it is gone.
 
Ok, the rubber o ring was superseded by the c clip. Ok talking about the stainless hat that rides against the carbon seal. It's all the same part, so do you have the old stainless hat? If so, try that. You can also drop the pump and try it on a work bench, just the shaft, stainless hat and the c clip.
 
That’s what I was thinking. I might have tossed the old stainless hat though..I’ll pull it all back apart tomorrow AM and see what happens on the bench.
 
I do still have the stainless hat/collar on the other side engine so I’ll get that one pulled off hopefully. That one is a pain too, I’m pretty sure I cut the oem O ring out of the shaft, got the pump removed, got the front clamp on the boot off, got the front of the drive shaft disengaged from the rear of the engine and it won’t break free of the stainless hat/collar! I pulled the pump off the back after removing the O ring and now I’m going to re bolt it back up, re engage the drive shaft into the rear of the engine and see if I can still slide the collar back...
 
Lesson #1 Don't throw anything out until the project is finished. But thankfully you have the other side.
 
In the kit you listed above mitymac..

Can I order the bellows and c clips from OSD and those should fit properly or do I need to go OEM Sea-Doo on the bellows and C clips?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

J
*FIXED* Don't buy Titan Performance wear rings! 1998 Challenger 1800 extreme cavitation and uneven wear after new wear rings. HELP!
Replies
6
Views
476
mikidymac
mikidymac
poetbruce
  • Locked
Pump install
Replies
2
Views
444
poetbruce
poetbruce
Jobondur
Wear Ring Good or No? Rebuild Jet Pump???
Replies
2
Views
235
BrianMoore
B
1
No thrust -2000 Sportster
Replies
2
Views
147
1970_mgb
1
1
No thrust -2000 Sportster
Replies
0
Views
102
1970_mgb
1
Back
Top