Quicksilver PWC 2-Stroke Oil Colloquy

[SurfBeat]

Here is the bottom line on Quicksilver PWC 2-Stroke Oil, manufactured by Mercury Marine.

If you take a minute to read the entire label that is posted on a container of QS PWC 2-Stroke oil you will see that albeit it is rated API TC,the label does not provide a scintilla of information pertaining to whether it is a Low Ash, High Ash or Ash-less oil, or whether or not it can be used in oil injection engines.

On that note, and in consideration that there are a myriad of posts on this Forum regarding Quicksilver oil, this morning I contacted Mercury Marine's corporate headquarters located in Stillwater, OK to solicit information regarding QS PWC 2-Stroke oil.

The representative informed me that to the best of his knowledge, based on what he recalled from a previous conversation that he had at a meeting that occurred about two years ago regarding oils that Mercury Marine (MM) sells, was that Mercury Marine has only sold engine oils that are Ashless because no Mercury engine used a Low Ash or High Ash oil.

When I challenged him about his position he transferred me to the engineering department wherein I was informed by an engineer that QS PWC two-stoke oil is in fact a Low Ash oil and can be used in oil injection engines as well as pre-mix engines.

The engineer did not have a document that I could read confirming his position, however, he assured me that several years ago, the exact date and time unknown, in an attempt to help MM dealerships that sell other brands, MM decided to order a Low Ash oil from the oil manufacture it used.

The engineer declined to inform me what oil company manufactures the oil that bears the MM,Quicksilver label.

Based upon that conversation, the bottom line is that the only Quicksilver oil that can be used in a Sea Doo, if it is the intent of the owner to follow the guidance set forth in all SD Operators manuals, is Quicksilver PWC 2-Stroke oil, be it in the silver container which is a blend of mineral (mineral 80%+-/synthetic 20%+-) or full synthetic (black container)

On a side note, and to help those that followed my footsteps and purchased QS Premium because it is rated API TC, (and TCW3), (two-cycle/water/3rd generation), QS Premium is Ashless as is Premium Plus, (a TCW3 oil).

According to all SD's Operators Guides I've read (I have not read the 1990 Guide) SD's require a Low Ash oil, which is an ingredient added to the oil for lubrication.

DISCLAIMER: Although I am a former criminal investigator with the feds, teacher and law school grad, nonetheless, I am a mere Shade Tree mechanic, so, keep all those facts in mind when you read my post to a Thread. I tend to offer facts, however, some are based on others opinions
or in this case cannot be fully documented.

All I am endeavoring to do is lay out some information based upon my experience. On that note, tread wisely grasshopper.

 

[LouDoo]

QuickSilver PWC 2 Stroke Oil

When the local SeaDoo dealer stopped carrying SeaDoo mineral oil, and started charging $80.00 for full synthetic (not even SeaDoo brand), I looked for an alternative.

I started using QS PWC sythetic blend from Walmart, about $27.00 gal.. I have used about a gal. and a half and have had excellent results. The ski is running well and the spark plugs have very little fouling.

The oil is readily available, reasonably priced, I plan to continue to use it.

"And that's all I have to say about that." Forest Gump 1988

Lou

 

[97SeadooGSX]

So it is not necessary to go with the FULL SYNTHETIC as my mechanic told me I needed, I can go with a SYNTHETIC BLEND? With the FULL SYNTHETIC create less ash though, less of that black residue on my rave valves???? If not Id rather just go with the SYNTHETIC BLEND because its a hell of a lot cheaper!!!!

 

[SurfBeat]

In my opinion, (Shade Tree mechanic) based upon what I have read in many Sea Doo (SD) Operators Guides from 1989, 1991 - 1999, if your engine has a RAVE, then those engines require 100% synthetic.

On the other hand, if your SD is older (90-95) AND conditioend that your Doo does not have a RAVE, then a blend of mineral and synthetic is BEST, because older engines, (580-600) series need the minerals to efficiently lubricate those engines.

Now, with respect to cost, sometime back I posted a Thread that listed all manufactures of oil that peddle an API TC Low Ash oil. Depending on where you live will determine which manufacturer is available to you.

Based upon personal experience, it can be a PIA trying to find a source to purchase it, however, in light of the fact that you mentioned "cost" as being relevant to you, (it is relevant to most people, including me) then you have to find that source or spend the larger amount of dollars for the SD brand.

May the wind be at you back Grasshopper.

 

[spx800]

why would the rave style require synthetic, would it be for less carbom build up? if thats the case and a synthetic bled creats more carbon build up on the valves, i think it would be worth it to just clean them more often. the rave valve allows the motor to make more bottem end hp vs a non rave engine and once they open allows for more peak rpm, do they not? this is how they are on sleds i'm just assuming its the same for these motors? correct me if i'm wrong please.

 

[SurfBeat]

As pointed out in most of my threads, unlike SeaDooya, Dr. Honda, SeaDooScipe and several other members, I am only a Shade Tree mechanic, so, what I learn is from researching and taking advice from the above boyz' from the Forum.

Because my Doo'S DO NOT have the RAVE, I don't have the information readily available regarding the reason Doo's with the RAVE need 100% synthetic, however, I do recall reading many Threads in this Forum and another, as well as from my research that is available by pulling up my threads regarding oil, that such Doo's Doo's (RAVE's) need full synthetic.

That said, if I had a Doo that had the RAVE, then I would fetch my SD Operators Guide (OG), and if I don't have it would go Premium on this site and get one.

Then I would read the information set forth in the lubrication section, pages 21-24 depending on the Guide, and see exactly what oil I need: synthetic or blend.

I've read many threads from members who have purchased their QS "PWC" (not Premium) full synthetic from Wal-Mart for about $28. That is only about $10-$11 difference from what I paid for Valvoline TCW3.

I got a laugh from a post to a Thread that was posted recently wherein someone ?? called people who refuse to use the oil that is recommended in their OG (or maybe it was directed to users who use TCW3) that they are cheap.

Albeit I would prefer the word "thrifty" over cheap, nonethess, if you want to be 100% safe, and at the same time be thrifty, get the type of oil, (that does not translate into brand) that is recommended in your OG.

Or. be like I once was, roll the dice and use whatever you want. Maybe it will work, maybe not?

Think about it this way. You probably will use onlay a gallon, maybe two gals of oil a season, so, if you spend an extra $5-$10 bucks a season, then weight that cost against the cost of repairing an engine and I think the wise course to travel will to be to go with the former.

With respect to your other questions, those are over my head and because as I pointed out above, I don't have the RAVE, I have not researched it.

Proceed wisely Grasshopper.