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Project Brother-In-Law: 2000 GTX DI

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Thanks!

And now I'm worried. Joining the pipe halves seemed to have gone too easily. I thoroughly cleaned all 3 parts, coated them with the copper sealant, lined them up fairly well, slid on the ring and tightened. As it tightened it appeared that everything lined up and fell into place. I guess I should expect it to leak like a sieve.

If you have links to any threads where you've already detailed this stuff, please point me to them. Seriously, I search and search... and get lots of stuff that is pretty much totally unrelated, but somewhere in the thread all of the words I searched on show up (although not together)... and I know that everything I ask about has been written many, many times. I just don't always find it when I search.:blush:
 
I've had pipes go smooth and take 10 min. I've also fought with them for over an hour.

You should have 22-24 mm of threads exposed past the nut if you've done it correctly... approx 22mm. just around an inch I think.
 
Thanks!

And now I'm worried. Joining the pipe halves seemed to have gone too easily. I thoroughly cleaned all 3 parts, coated them with the copper sealant, lined them up fairly well, slid on the ring and tightened. As it tightened it appeared that everything lined up and fell into place. I guess I should expect it to leak like a sieve.

If you have links to any threads where you've already detailed this stuff, please point me to them. Seriously, I search and search... and get lots of stuff that is pretty much totally unrelated, but somewhere in the thread all of the words I searched on show up (although not together)... and I know that everything I ask about has been written many, many times. I just don't always find it when I search.:blush:

Other members have noted that if you use google to search, it will lead you back here to SDF and the correct threads instead of hundred unrelated threads.
 
don't just crank on it either. it should go on smooth if it's on right.
Glad you mentioned this, as I measured 15mm and started cranking. It was very snug already so I backed it off and removed the collar. Found that the two pipe halves weren't aligned. Once aligned it was EASY to tighten all the way to 20mm, and was just getting a little snug at 21mm. I stopped at 22mm. Hopefully it is right this time. :)
 
Other members have noted that if you use google to search, it will lead you back here to SDF and the correct threads instead of hundred unrelated threads.

good point... you can actually limit a google search to just a single domain... I had forgotten about that.
In case anyone else stumbles on this... here is how you do it.
In the google search blank type "site:seadooforum.com" (without the quotes), followed by whatever terms you want to search for.
ie. site:seadooforum.com di exhaust install
 
Glad you mentioned this, as I measured 15mm and started cranking. It was very snug already so I backed it off and removed the collar. Found that the two pipe halves weren't aligned. Once aligned it was EASY to tighten all the way to 20mm, and was just getting a little snug at 21mm. I stopped at 22mm. Hopefully it is right this time. :)

Damn I'm good. ;)

Did you remove the whole pipe, clean all surfaces and redo the copper RTV, or was it only set briefly?

allow 24 hours for the RTV to cure before you start the engine!

and yes, all hail the google. it just kinda knows what you mean. - as does the NSA :-/

this is a 2000 so you will have a paper style gasket between the exhaust manifold and top pipe as well. the 01-02 uses a reusable (if in good shape) rubber style that I like better. Did you threadlock blue everything?

use a flashlight and small make-up mirror to check things out. there should be a nice perfect match of the pipe ALL the way around. If you are OCD like me you can let it dry overnight, loosen the pipe clamp to inspect, then reinstall the clamp. But that's only if your OCD ;)
 
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Damn I'm good. ;)

Did you remove the whole pipe, clean all surfaces and redo the copper RTV, or was it only set briefly?

allow 24 hours for the RTV to cure before you start the engine!

I did not remove, clean and redo. If it leaks, I will. If not, I'll forgo the hours of exhaust pipe wrestling and cussing.
 
this is a 2000 so you will have a paper style gasket between the exhaust manifold and top pipe as well. the 01-02 uses a reusable (if in good shape) rubber style that I like better. Did you threadlock blue everything?

use a flashlight and small make-up mirror to check things out. there should be a nice perfect match of the pipe ALL the way around. If you are OCD like me you can let it dry overnight, loosen the pipe clamp to inspect, then reinstall the clamp. But that's only if your OCD ;)

I missed the lower part of this note somehow before...
Yes, paper gasket between pipe and manifold. I was wondering about the rubber one that was also in the bag, but the manual showed the paper gasket, so I used it instead of the rubber one. Are they interchangeable?

Between this and the Challenger rebuild I should have bought stock in Permatex. At a minimum, I'm expecting a Christmas card from them for all of the threadlocker I've used. :)

I've been using a wand light and inspection mirror on a retractable stick to check things.

The 24 hour drying time sucks, but I guess I don't have any choice. I went down at lunch and corrected a hose that i had re-routed, redid the pipe clamp, installed the intake and fuel rail, hooked up all loose lines. Then I grabbed the battery... Dead. So i put the lawn mower battery in and cranked it with the plugs out to make sure I didn't get any errors, everything spun properly, etc. Was tempted to syphon some gas from the Challenger to see if it would fire... but I need to get it off of the stand and onto the trailer so I can hook it up to the hose in the driveway. Good thing I waited since I was only about 12 hours since the copper RTV was put on the pipe joint.

My Challenger engine will be back tomorrow, and I really want to take it to the lake this weekend. So I'll likely prep it tonight so I can reinstall the engine tomorrow night and take it to the lake with me Saturday. That will also give time for the RTV on the GTX to cure.
 
Thanks to all that have chimed in on this. As frustrated as i was last night, it helped to have some encouragement and guidance. :)
 
It runs!
Just started it in the driveway and it fired up immediately.
I only ran it for about 3 minutes on the hose, but I didn't see any leaks anywhere.

:hurray:
 
it won't hurt it, but you aren't doing anything good for the engine.

NOTHING BAD though.

the DI shoots the fuel in on top of the piston. it will never lube the crank.

I'd just add more gas. Also, change your plugs after the first tank.

Also, STOP DOING THINGS first LOL.
 
Ok, got too busy to post this after the Challenger engine arrived. Was up until 3:30am Saturday finishing the Challenger engine install so I could take it to the lake over the weekend. It ran great!

Anyhow, back to the GTX DI...
I put the rebuilt engine in the DI and had a HECK of a time fitting the exhaust in and getting it appropriately tightened. I thought that the gas system had been drained before it sat for a couple of years. I didn't realize until AFTER I had spent about 5 hours fighting to get the exhaust in and tightened that there was still a bit of gas in the bottom of the tank. Based on the receipt still in the glove box, it would be from 2007.
The fuel system was taken apart in 2011... with the fuel rail in a box, the cylinders in another box, & the fuel hoses still in the boat.
It was already about 4am and I had to get to bed (I had 3 really late nights last week). The thought of pulling EVERYTHING back out to pull the fuel tank was too much for me. I tried to syphon out the gas from the tank but is was so little that I couldn't get the hose to stay in the right place to suck it out... except for the one time that I got a mouth full and had gas shooting out my nose. :puke: I jumped and tugged the hose in the process, which broke vaccuum. After that I gave up on syphoning and put 5 gallons of fresh gas on top of the gallon that was already in there.
And I also pre-mixed it to 32:1

At this point I'll point out that in post #7 of this thread JHJESSE very wisely advised me to take out the entire fuel system and clean it... and I didn't. I was thinking that the Challenger engine would not be back in time and was rushing to get the GTX ready in case I needed it for the weekend.

That brings me to that nervous moment when I pressed the start button.
On the carburated (sort of... I think it is more of a mechanical direct injection... it doesn't even have a float) 787 in the Challenger I got used to how it usually needs a few seconds of cranking to get the gas flowing so it will start and run. With the GTX it actually startled me that it fired INSTANTLY the first time I pushed the start button.:cheers:

I didn't have the jet pump hooked up, so with no resistance it idled really fast. After a couple of seconds it started surging. Not sure if that is the right term, but RPMs increase, then fall off in roughly 1-1.5 second intervals. It reminds me a touch of how the challenger wouldn't idle smoothly the first time I put the carbs on and didn't notice that one of the carb gaskets had rotated and was only on one bolt, so it was blocking part of the carb throat on one side, and had a gap on the other side. That massive air leak in the fuel circuit burned up the top end of that motor in a couple of hours. :facepalm:

So, now I've got the GTX back together and am trying to get my head around all of the possible causes of this surging so that I can prioritize them by likelihood and impact and start working through the list.

What I'm thinking now:
1) an air leak in the fuel circuit. My first thought is to pull the reeds and throttle bodies and reinstall, making sure there are no leaks. I like this, as I can do this without taking the exhaust pipe off, but I don't think it is very likely that it will solve the problem.

2) the old gas in the fuel system has gummed things up and it isn't getting enough gas to one or both cylinders. I'm sure there are threads on here telling how to clean the fuel system. I will check the manual and search the forums for info.

3) ??

Any other ideas of things I should do or check?
 
I wouldn't fret too much yet, get the pump on and get it in the water.

I am more familiar w/the Carb skis, however I believe at idle, you are running on one piston. Not sure what genius at SEA_DOO did that, but with no load, it may cause some RPM fluctuation is my guess.

Running on one applies ONLY do the DI. (Maybe RFI, but I'm not sure). (NOT carb skis).

I'd get the pump on and go for a ride.

yea, the 951 exhaust is fun, isn't it :)
 
I wouldn't fret too much yet, get the pump on and get it in the water.

I am more familiar w/the Carb skis, however I believe at idle, you are running on one piston. Not sure what genius at SEA_DOO did that, but with no load, it may cause some RPM fluctuation is my guess.

Running on one applies ONLY do the DI. (Maybe RFI, but I'm not sure). (NOT carb skis).

I'd get the pump on and go for a ride.

yea, the 951 exhaust is fun, isn't it :)

Wow. I have ridden this GTX DI since it was new and never knew that it idles on one cylinder. That is bizzarre.

I sent a note to Tom at SES and he said basically the same thing... to get the pump on and get it in the water. That if it wasn't throwing errors (which it isn't), then I shouldn't start trying to diagnose it yet.
 
Engine is aligned and the pump is on... EVERYthing is on, actually. And it is on the trailer and ready to go. I'll head to the local lake tomorrow and start the water trials. fingers crossed!

Still need to pick up some more oil and the correct battery though. Still using the battery from my lawn tractor... which I'll need back soon. :(
 
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Engine is aligned and the pump is on... EVERYthing is on, actually. And it is on the trailer and ready to go. I'll head to the local lake tomorrow and start the water trials. fingers crossed!

Still need to pick up some more oil and the correct battery though. Still using the battery from my lawn tractor... which I'll need back soon. :(

Yeah... you need to get the correct battery. DI's are finicky when it comes to electrical. They start doing weird things.

Good luck with the water test.
 
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you tell us it's running odd, but just now tell us you are using the wrong battery?!

Don't make me drive there just to smack you.
 
you tell us it's running odd, but just now tell us you are using the wrong battery?!

Don't make me drive there just to smack you.

Honestly, I thought "a battery is a battery". 12V = 12V, right? Apparently not. :facepalm:
I'm hoping it stops raining this evening so I can get it in the water before dark.

I'll run out and get the appropriate battery at lunch.

That is the awesome thing about this forum and you guys... always teaching me something. :)
 
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