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Premix conversion kits??

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kirkland

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I've heard all about the peace of mind that you have premix instead of oil injection, I hope someone knows where they have them because I can't find them online, they have a block off plate and stuff and also I'm not sure but I read that you have to leave the oil tank in for the rotary valve, plug the two lines that feed the engine and block off where the pump was, anyone know much about this, thanks.
 
all seadoo two strokes need oil to crankcase except for the 951 motor
they all use a rotary valve that needs the oil for lube
951 has reed valves
i can count on one hand the number of oil pump failures ive seen in the past 20 years, but if you want piece of mind ,you can block her off
ive seen people take the tank out completly and just re-connect the hoses that feed crankcase back together with oil in the lines to keep the assy lubed
dont know about or reccomend this.
.
as for premix, me thinks that when running premix, this will change the amount of fuel getting to the engine,
since oil is being added to the fuel ,the amount of fuel is decreased due to the fact that the oil added is displacing a certain amount of fuel.
maybe the jetting needs to be change?
i think i read this somewere, not sure
maybe someone could chime in on this therory!
mud
 
If you must go to pre-mix the ratio is 40:1. You really need to keep the oil injector tank in place and connected to the rotary valve hoses to properly keep the rotary valve shaft lubed. Remember that the oil injector pump is a variable rate pump It delivers more oil as the engine rpm's increase and less at say idle. Your oil consumption will be more and fouled plugs will be a norm as it will foul the plugs at low rpm's. The difference to go to premix dosen't make much sence to me except for peace of mind... I have never seen an oil injector pump fail, just be replaced after thinking it was the problem. I've never heard that the oil in a injected engine displaces any fuel...its still in the fuel, but applied differently. The block off plate kits are on like e-bay or SBT might sell them. You could remove the pump shaft under the oil pump and reinstall the pump, or buy a block off plate kit.

Karl
 
Thanks just a few questions to pick your mind a bit about what happend

If you must go to pre-mix the ratio is 40:1. You really need to keep the oil injector tank in place and connected to the rotary valve hoses to properly keep the rotary valve shaft lubed. Remember that the oil injector pump is a variable rate pump It delivers more oil as the engine rpm's increase and less at say idle. Your oil consumption will be more and fouled plugs will be a norm as it will foul the plugs at low rpm's. The difference to go to premix dosen't make much sence to me except for peace of mind... I have never seen an oil injector pump fail, just be replaced after thinking it was the problem. I've never heard that the oil in a injected engine displaces any fuel...its still in the fuel, but applied differently. The block off plate kits are on like e-bay or SBT might sell them. You could remove the pump shaft under the oil pump and reinstall the pump, or buy a block off plate kit.

Karl
Ok, I just took the engine out and checked everything over good it don't seem like anything is wrong with the oil pump, I am very new to seadoos this is my first one.
?**the back cylinder, the head, the top of the piston...well all of the piston and the exhaust manifold.....all clean like washed in brake cleaner only in the back cylinder, burnt the rod bearing the piston was melting in some places and their were some of the missing little pieces of the piston stuck in the head like someone shot them out of a gun.....(sound like the back cylinder have oil to you or not??)

?**I did just rebuild the carbs and keep seeing people say their is a throttle linkage, a oil pump linkage and a choke linkage on the carbs.....mine only has a throttle and a choke on the carbs and the oil pump has it's linkage, they were all set and checked to make sure all was moving together, the line on the pump lined up with the line on the engine, carbs were completely rebuilt, new everything and cleaned, both low speed screws were at 1.5 turns from closed and both high speed screws were at 0 all the way down like they should be to start checking plugs......(could a carb cause this to happen to a engine in 1 or 2 min running if something is wrong with it...who knows I'm human I could have done something but I took plenty of time and did it right but if something wasn't right could it do that??)
where is this other oil pump linkage that is not on my engine, I would keep the pump if I knew it wasn't the cause of the blow out.

?**When I first got the ski a water hose came off and overheated the engine that was in august since I've been replacing gaskets and testing it several times, it was never running right because the carbs were clogged and the carbs were shot and needed rebuilding, I did get to the filters in the carbs and clean them when I replaced the lines and tried to clean the rest of the engine and carbs with some seafoam (cleaner) in the gas, ran it hard because with the filters clean it ran a little better but only would go 40 mph I did run it full throttle and ran it hard to try to clean it out for about 20 min non stop, it blew a head gasket and I didn't even know till I got it back and tried it on the trailer I noticed the front cylinder was hotter than the back, much hotter THIS WAS THE FRONT CYLINDER, the exhaust was blowing the water out of the cooling passageways you could see the oil and smut on the inside of the cylinder passageways and on the grass from trying to flush it. But that was the front and the overheat in aug was more the front. So I changed the head gasket, installed the new rebuilt carbs, and it ran like a champ, like a new one on the trailer, would crank every time for the first ran so smooth put it in the water started it, it went dead started again let it warm up and took of for about 2 min and that was it, kaboom, paddle time. I would put up one of the little faces to show how I feel about my first ski experience but I'm past all of them to a point where you don't have.........o never mind I just saw the (more) lol :puke: :banghead: :willy_nilly: :leaving: :puke:
lol I just want to know which problem blew my engine or if was a little of all of it I know my cleaning mission didn't help but I did look at the plugs I bet 10 times to check for oil and nice color it looked good and had oil so I took it out and the way the oil looked cleaned out of the back cylinder made me think oil pump but I just don't know I need to know because I'm getting a engine or having someone rebuild mine from the bottom up. I don't want it to happen again!!! How can I make sure 100% with a oil pump that's my ? and what do you think could have done one cylinder like that,
could it look that, like it was cleaned to the metal everywhere from the way the metal was flying in there and when the bearing went. Maybe it had oil and just looks that way I have never seen a engine do this before. Any answers I will be very thankful for. I will be in the water spring going to take my time and get her ready, I don't like the sound of using more oil just to have a bunch of fouled plugs all the time but I want to know this wont happen again. I don't know much about them at all but I know what happened to the engine was weird.

?**Where is the rotary valve and which line are you talking about that goes there I only have the main line into the bottom of the pump from tank and the 2 small lines that are at each cylinder before the reed valves at the bottom, full bore will rebuild the engine and remove pto, the magneto and put all that stuff back on the rebuilt engine, time it and everything
 
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