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Potential Bendix replacement

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crazychucky8

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Hey Guys,
Thanks ahead of time for any help and or suggestions!!
I have a 2001 RX DI with 120 Hours

It's been difficult to start. I replaced the starter and that didn't change anything. I was out in the middle of the lake and for one reason or another it shut off on me (this was last year, don't remember specific details). Anyways, tried multiple times to restart and eventually melted to positive battery terminal. So I took it to a local shop. I was informed that the Bendix needed to be replaced - about $800. I do all of my engine work and repair on my cars and have done some repairs on the 2 jet ski's that I have. Never to this degree though.

I'm curious as to whether or not I can remove the Mag cover while in the hull and leave the front mount connected and still be able to replace the bendix?
If not, would it work if I disconnect the front mount and lift the front of the engine up a little with a block of wood underneath? Does that mean that I will need to disconnect the driveshaft to do so?

Thanks for any and all advice!
Kevin
 
What exactly is it doing?

Is it just clicking? is the stater spinning but not the engine? Can you turn the engine over with the plugs out?
 
I haven't tried it since getting it back from the shop. I've already pulled the exhaust. Prior to taking it to the shop a few weeks ago, I was able to get it to crank, it just took multiple attempts. I want to say that the starter would just spin for the most part and catch every now and again.
 
Thought I would post an update for future reference. You can replace the Bendix while the engine is still in the Hull. I removed the exhaust, airbox, and the front motor mount and placed the front end on a block of wood elevated slightly to allow better access to the mag cover bolts. Replaced successfully and cranked on the first try.
 
Hey guys, I replaced the Bendix and was able to start the RX DI without an issue. I took it to the lake this past weekend and was able to determine the remaining issues - the original reason why I sent it to the shop.
Once I got it in the water, squeezed the gas & the RPM's just shot up, ski did not move. At idle it would move some, but, not like normal. I'm assuming that issue may be the jet pump - not sure.
The 2nd issue is that I couldn't get the ski to shut off. Pushing the start/stop button did not work nor did pulling the lanyard. I had to remove the Positive terminal cable from the battery to kill the engine.

Any thoughts on both issues? I can tell you that the Rectifier and the Stator were both replaced back in early 2015. Took the ski out at the beginning of 2015 summer and ran into the same issue. After paying for the repair work I decided to call it quits for the year and just left the ski off to the side. I had a new born at the time and wasn't able to devote any time to troubleshooting it.

Thanks for any suggestions and help - again!
 
1st issue - Check your engine alignment. Your drive shaft might be spinning, causing it to redline. Other possible issue is the wear ring is shot. You should be able to get a dime between the wear ring and propeller. Tighter is better.

2nd issue - hmm. I would say pull the choke, but it is a DI, so no choke to test if it running lean. Stumped
 
Thanks for the suggestion on the Alignment and the wear ring. Please forgive my lack of knowledge on the Alignment piece. Is this just a simple as verifying that the shaft is still in the PTO - Splines meeting or is there something more elaborate involved?
 
High revs with no performance can be, in normal order to check:
1) Wear Ring and Impeller (Confirm there is nothing like a stick stuck in there as that will cause the same issue.)
2) Carbon Seal
3) Drive Shaft Splines.

With the Shut Off issue, does your ski have a START button separate from the SHUT OFF or is it the same button?

Alignment is crucial. It is something that needs to be checked if you remove the engine and or replace any motor mounts. There is a specific tool designed for this. If it is out of alignment, it will cause wear ring issues, pump bearing issues, shaft issues, and can cause engine issues depending on how far off it is.
 
Hey Guys, checking back in. I was able to pull the Jet pump. The Wear Ring looks to be in great shape, however, this is the first time I've taken a look at one. Here is a picture of it.
0628162031.jpg

The only thing that I could see wrong is the Impeller Boot(?). Hopefully that is the correct name for it. It looks a little mangled. Would that cause the drive shaft to spin freely - meaning squeeze the gas, the RPM's go up and the boat goes nowhere? Picture attached. Regardless, I'm assuming it needs to be replaced before putting the pump back on. What is the actual name of this piece and can I just by this piece?
0628162101.jpg

Also, I wanted to start the engine to watch the Driveshaft in motion, probably a bad idea, but, nonetheless I attempted this. I did not have my Lanyard at that moment (so no key) and decided that I would go ahead and connect the positive battery cable to the battery and then go get the key. As soon as the positive cable touched the positive battery terminal the engine started cranking. Again, no key and I definitely wasn't pushing the Start/Stop button. I'm assuming that would go back to the issue where I had to pull the positive battery cable off the battery to shut off the engine. What are thoughts on this?

Other pictures:
0628162033c.jpg 0628162054.jpg 0628162055a.jpg

As always, thanks for the help!
 
First off, never start it with the pump out and driveshaft in as there is nothing supporting it.

Second if it started cranking as soon as you hooked up the battery your starter solenoid is stuck closed.
 
Thanks for the info!! Would the closed solenoid also keep me from shutting the engine off?

Any thoughts on the pump itself. Does it look good, well, with the exception of the Impeller Boot? And would the worn out boot impeller cause the shaft to spin freely - revving up the RPM's?
 
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