PLEASE HELP!! Continuously turning over

[Gustopho]

Hey guys, I am hoping and praying that somebody here can help me with this problem. I just purchased a 1996 speedster twin engine boat. The dealer said the last time they had it out was a few years ago. I’ve replaced the oil and I replaced the fuel that was in it brand new spark plugs and two brand new fully charge batteries.

I have two issues.

1. The main problem that I’m having is the moment I turn the battery dial behind the drive seat, the dial says 1, the engine behind the driver immediately and continuously turns over.

2. The above problem happens even without the key attached or me pressing the ignition button. It does not stop unless I turn the dial to the off position.

I have the two battery negative cables attached properly along with the jumper cable. Does it make a difference which Positive cable is going to which battery?

I have wanted one of these boats for about the last 10 years and was finally able to get it. The dealer assured me everything was fine with it.

I am really hoping this is a quick easy solution.

Thank you very much to all who respond and thank you as well to anybody who can help me resolve this issue

 

[racerxxx]

Sounds like the starter solenoid is stuck. It should be in the gray box in the back of the boat. You can try and tap it with the handle of a screw driver, but it probably wouldn't be that easy. If it does work you know what you need to replace.

 

[Gustopho]

Sounds like the starter solenoid is stuck. It should be in the gray box in the back of the boat. You can try and tap it with the handle of a screw driver, but it probably wouldn't be that easy. If it does work you know what you need to replace.

RACERXXX!!! Thank you for such a quick response.

Is that the gray box behind the driver seat that has the negative and positive power cables running through it? Also would that cause it to continuously turnover even though the security key is not plugged in?

 

[racerxxx]

Yes that's the box. So. Follow the red cable coming from that starter to the box. It will terminate on the solenoid.

 

[Gustopho]

Yes that's the box. So. Follow the red cable coming from that starter to the box. It will terminate on the solenoid.

I will absolutely do that tomorrow and let you know!! Thank you so much Sir.

Last question. On either side of the boat next to the fuel and oil fill holes are two additional supply ports. Is this where I hook up the garden hose to dry run the engines for any duration of time? They are identical and look to be able to receive the male end of a garden hose so that’s why I was asking.

Thank you

 

[Gustopho]

OK so here is a super hypothetical question that just popped into my head and I don’t even know if it’s possible because I am not familiar with these machines yet.

Because I am 2 1/2 hours away from a large enough city that actually has this solenoid if it needs to be replaced I just wanted to do a fix for the weekend and then fix it properly this coming week. So my question is can I use engine 1 starter solenoid for both engines? Can I run a few jumper wires from the good solenoid engine and start both engines with engine 2 button versus starting them individually?

 

[JeremyD615]

OK so here is a super hypothetical question that just popped into my head and I don’t even know if it’s possible because I am not familiar with these machines yet.

Because I am 2 1/2 hours away from a large enough city that actually has this solenoid if it needs to be replaced I just wanted to do a fix for the weekend and then fix it properly this coming week. So my question is can I use engine 1 starter solenoid for both engines? Can I run a few jumper wires from the good solenoid engine and start both engines with engine 2 button versus starting them individually?

No, that’s not a feasible solution... Theoretically, it “could” work that way, but only if both engines actually fired at the same exact time. The chances of that happening are just about zero though... If one motor fires before the other, you’re going to be engaging the starter on the running motor until the other fires, and you’ll then be fixing the solenoid and replacing a starter, which is not exactly an easy process on the twin engine boats... You’re much better off paying for expedited shipping than trying to rig something up to make it work.

 

[A1CNC]

You bought this from a dealer and they will not fix it? I would be having them fix it unless it was specifically stated sold as is.
Sounds like the starter solenoid to me as well

 

[Gustopho]

Hey guys. So I took the boat out after replacing the solenoid. I believe it was stuck shut because I tried as advise, removed the box cover tapped on the solenoid and it stopped turning over until I hit the start button.

I have a new issue now that I actually got the boat on the water.

Engine 1 ran like a champ. Engine 2 however won’t get past 4000 rpm’s. I did get a slight increase in power when making left turns, opposite side of the engine and then sporadically here and there. I would get short Burt’s of power that lasted maybe 2 seconds. That only happened a few times right away. For the rest of 30 minute test drive today that damn engine 2 hovered at 4000?

Any common, first check things that anyone knows of?

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

 

[JeremyD615]

Well it sounds like you’ve got a problem with either the pump or the driveline. I would go ahead and pull the pump on that side and check to see if you have free, smooth rotation of the impeller. It could be something as simple as fishing line wrapped around the driveshaft, or it could be a bearing going bad in either the pump itself or the carrier assembly. Poor motor alignment can cause excess friction that appears this way too. Just pull the pump and see what you’re working with.