• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Pissed Pissed and More Pissed

Status
Not open for further replies.

qstorm

New Member
So remember I was having issues with the ski last week and replace the battery. Took it out this weekend and its riding like a charm, Then It cuts out. Hit the start again and it runs fine once i come off the throttle it idles fine, when I hit it again it shuts off. So I am thinking maybe it needed some more oil? I had just filled up and used a 50:1 mixture? is that ok.

Here comes the big issue. After riding for about 30 mins out in the ocean with no problem, I went back to shore to let the family ride. When I shut off the ski, it capsize for no reason. Well guess what it was a big reason, the ski took on half hull of water.
I notice the water wasn't rising, so we started bailing out the water with cups..LOL, Then I noticed by the shaft the hose protect was loose, the clamp wasn't tightened. The mechanic that serviced it last year did not tightened the clamp enough. I wasn't too upset cause I caught the problem and the ski was still starting.

So here we are in the inter-coastal shallow water about 10 ft from the rocks bailing out water, tighten the clam and almost ready to go when about 3 BIG BOATS cruise by doing about maybe 25 mph, the wave that they created was unbelievable. Next thing you know we got hammered by a wave (we had our backs turn towards the ocean) by the time we could turn around another one hit sending my niece into the rocks, then the boyfriend, then my nephew. I am holding on to ski for dear life, by this time the hull is flooded. I reached up and shut the engine compartment and lock my three fingers underneath the dam thing. I have you ever got hit so hard that a sound cant even leave your mouth. Well thats what happened.

Would you believe not one person would come to our rescue, they just cruise by and sail by like we weren't even there as much as we called out and lit flares.
So I bought a pump and pump the water out. Took the plugs out and sprayed it with starting fluid. The WD-40 got washed out too far in the ocean, so I used what I had, hopefully it didnt do any harm. I wasn't getting anything from the starter, so I checked the battery and the positive was corroded. (gold terminal, i guess i have to change it to a SS like the negative cause that was fine).

To make a long story short, sometimes I would get signal from it and sometimes none. It was turning over yesterday but its not today. I don't think it is seized, I think I have an electrical problem. I am getting power in the from the electrical box and the fuse box but nothing when I press the start button.
I remove the two main harness, the one one left gives me the double chirp when I put in back in but nothing when i press the start. The second harness had water in it and there was some corrosion. I clean it out as best that I can. One fuse was blown, the 8amp and replace it with a 20amp Just see if I would get anything up top (heading to the store to get the right one and other stuff for the ski)
BTW: No water got into the electrical box.

Anything else I should try. Thanks
 
Make sure you replace the correct fuse in the fuse holder. I would spray wd-40 in the cylinders to displace the water. If you don't get it to fired up today, put some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders to lube the pistons and rings so the salt water doesn't cause more problems sitting over night. Make sure the DESS lanyard is clean use soapy water and clean it real good. Don't use grease or anything on it. It might have salt crystals and residue on it preventing it from connecting. I would spray wd-40 on the other wiring and connections also to displace any water. Check the air intake over the carbs that it's dry and water free so it doesn't suck in any water from the air box/ spark arrester when it does fire up. Keep us posted on your progress.

Karl
 
Karl I did all that an still not getting it to turn over. The only progress I have made is the double chirp when I put the key on.
From what I am looking at, the steering harness has been corroded from the salt and destroyed one of the female terminals. At this point I am wondering it the start switch is making its connection. I tried searching locally for the female terminals but no luck. found some at radio shack but it may not work. I poured the oil in the cylinders and will tackle the bad boy tomorrow. Will have to order the terminals online.
I called the mechanic and he wants me to bring it in tomorrow. I know he charges 65 an hour so I am leary about taking it in to him, he might not own up to the neglect, but I do have my receipt for the work he did.

I will keep you guys updated.
Thanks for the help, going to play some poker :cheers:
 
Quick trouble shoot.

If your getting the double beeps fromt the mpem when your connected to the post, then she's ready for starting.....Your problem may be in the switch itself...........
Try this. Get a metal coat hangar. Cut in a length of about 8 inches. bend it in a "U". With the solenoid exposed, put the cap on the post. Here the two beeps, press the throttle up a time to squirt a little fuel in the carbs, then touch the "U" metal across the solenoid to the two large wires. If you got two beeps and a charged battery, it will start. That says your post is bad!.............
This shouldn't be done but once......it's not to use for everyday purposes....just trouble shooting.
 
If your getting the double beeps fromt the mpem when your connected to the post, then she's ready for starting.....Your problem may be in the switch itself...........
Try this. Get a metal coat hangar. Cut in a length of about 8 inches. bend it in a "U". With the solenoid exposed, put the cap on the post. Here the two beeps, press the throttle up a time to squirt a little fuel in the carbs, then touch the "U" metal across the solenoid to the two large wires. If you got two beeps and a charged battery, it will start. That says your post is bad!.............
This shouldn't be done but once......it's not to use for everyday purposes....just trouble shooting.
Allmost sounds like you are making a heating elament. hope you dont have a direct short. I am sure it will be ok at least I hope so I have done it many time before only seen the heating elament a couple of times. mainly useing smaller guage wire though. :rofl::rofl:
 
solid wire not the best thing.

If your getting the double beeps fromt the mpem when your connected to the post, then she's ready for starting.....Your problem may be in the switch itself...........
Try this. Get a metal coat hangar. Cut in a length of about 8 inches. bend it in a "U". With the solenoid exposed, put the cap on the post. Here the two beeps, press the throttle up a time to squirt a little fuel in the carbs, then touch the "U" metal across the solenoid to the two large wires. If you got two beeps and a charged battery, it will start. That says your post is bad!.............
This shouldn't be done but once......it's not to use for everyday purposes....just trouble shooting.

You might want to use a peice of wire with insulation on it so you don't get warm fingers.:ack:
 
Tape.....

I usually take a little electrical tape and wrap it around the coat hangar to do this..........really, I don't even do it anymore. But because he only wants needs to touch the solenoid long enough to test it, I don't think it will get that hot, that fast. Now, a smaller gage wire will get hot fast.
 
:rofl: Coat hanger LOL J/K


I just grab a par of pliers. That way you have control to remove them quickly. and usually insulated grips. Just open the pliers and close them on the two nuts.
by the time you make the coat hanger you could have already figured out what was wrong with the ski....

No offense Louis.... :)
 
Okay so I used my pliers and the engine is turning over. I am still not getting anything from the switch. The steering housing might need replacing from the corrosion. It has 18 female pins in it, which cost cost $2 a piece.
If I get a new housing and remove the cables can those pin still be used.
I replace the female terminal that just melted from the salt which is actually the one that goes to the switch, but its not lining up properly because the clip that holds it is broken. Any work around for this problem?
:confused:

I called the mechanic to bring it because I have my receipt to prove that he did do the job. I am just hoping he doesn't charge me anything. I would love to fix it myself but I don't want to screw things up switching those from one harness to another.

Thanks
 
You could take your time and replace the harness and pins to new ones. It is one of those things that need replacing and not just a bandaid to get by. Spend the time and a little money now or get stranded later.
 
Well I took the switch off and its rusty, so I cut it off and trying touching both wires together to see if it would start but still nothing. I notice on the computer one of the pin is either pushed in or broken off or maybe thats the way it is. I believe its pin #2. Do you know if thats the case. Couldn't find a diagram in service manual.

I brought back to the mechanic just in case its something bigger than I expected. He said he will let me know what he finds. He was trying to say its a maintenance issue on my part that I have to constantly check those clams and other things etc. I told him I would agree but I only rode the ski this past weekend since he fixed it......awaiting his call back.
 
Let us know what he finds...than post here and we'll help you get it repaired the proper way, if he doesn't come through.
 
Computer Damage

So I went to the mechanic today and he told me that the salt not only corroded the female terminals in the harness but it destroyed two of the pins on the computer and thats why It wasn't starting.
The issue will be now will they replace due to there negligence or will they pushed it off on me. They guy that worked on it is on vacation and the owner seems to want to push it off on me, saying that I didn't do proper maintenance because the ski was worked on 6 months ago. I made sure I informed him that I haven't rode the ski since it was fixed cause it was cold then.

Anyway is there anyway to fix those terminals on the computer or will I have to get a new computer.
 
What did the dealer say when he explained the problem? It's hard to say if it can be fixed or not with out seeing it. Is it just the pin with the wire attached or is the pin corroded away to nothing?
 
Sorry not the dealer, the mechanic that worked on it. He didn't say what he was going to do, but I did see it before I brought it in and its corroded away down to the plastic. Its missing two of the male terminals.
I am sure he is going to tell me a need a new computer, if thats the case I will see if I can open it and solder two prongs on it.
Can the computer be opened?
 
Another member "all things custom" "Mike" does work on the mpem's and I'm sure he will answer you question on repairing it, when he sees your post.

Karl
 
Nope, that part cannot be opened to reveal any more than it is.

What I have done in the past is, Pull the wires that are broken off out of the plug. drill the holes out.

Now solder a wire on to each point thet is broken in the MPEM, feed the wires through the hole that was drilled out and splice on to the wires.

the reason for this is it is nearly impossible to solder a pin on that will hold up. but a wire will work well. and the splice on the outside is easier to make....
 
So I went to the mechanic today and saw the computer up close. The terminal for the on/off switch is completely worn down to the plastic where I cant even see it, and the one that controls the gauges have enough to solder on.
He is telling me he can eat the cost on the labor but not the cost. He is getting it for 415. I can't seem to find it anywhere cheaper than that.
Any suggestions where I can get one.


Nope, that part cannot be opened to reveal any more than it is.

What I have done in the past is, Pull the wires that are broken off out of the plug. drill the holes out.

Now solder a wire on to each point thet is broken in the MPEM, feed the wires through the hole that was drilled out and splice on to the wires.

the reason for this is it is nearly impossible to solder a pin on that will hold up. but a wire will work well. and the splice on the outside is easier to make....
 
That's not too bad, I would check with another seadoo dealer for a price, to see if he is high or low. I'll do some checking tomorrow to see what they sell for.
 
Actually he called the dealer while I was there and the guy told him 584 for retail then he ask what was his price and the guy gave him that price. I will check around tomorrow to see if I find anything cheaper. On the internet I found it for 427.00
 
Is your mechanic from a seadoo dealer? If you replace the Mpem(Multi Purpose Electronic Module), It will have to be reprogrammed to the lanyard key. Only seadoo dealers can do the re-program. I'll give a look see around for a price today when I get a chance. I'm at home now finishing my taxes up with accountant....:ack:

Karl
 
Karl, he is a licensed jetski mechanic. He has a programmer. Let me know if you find out anything. I am thinking about just getting a new one and sell the old one to someone who can rectify it.
 
It's a good thing to have a certified Seadoo mechanic work on your equipment. Usually only authorized seadoo repair shops have the Mpem programer, as they are real expensive...like $2500.00 or more new.
 
Maintenance

Ok, so I am still waiting for the computer to come and get reprogrammed. Is there any tips on maintenance other than flushing I need to do after each ride.

Also the clamp that was loose on the rubber over the drive shaft is different from the original one. Meaning the original rubber had a nipple on it and the clamp itself had a hole for that nipple to go through. Now on the new rubber there is no nipple, so I am wondering if thats why it came loose. I can easily apply a small amount of pressure to that rubber and it slides right off. Maybe the grease from the shaft is there. Any ideas how to prevent this in the future.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top