Picked up a new (to me) ski and am having an issue - Need some help

[Strizzo]

some people have recommended pulling the feed line at the carbs, and applying a bit of low pressure compressed air to the return to push the fuel through the lines. with completely empty lines it can take as much as 30 seconds of cranking. be sure not to run the starter more than 10 or so seconds at a time so you don't burn it up.

 

[scrisp]

Heck yea that's a nice find... I am so jealous!!!! Happy you got a smokin deal though. You better let me at least take it out for some waves this up and coming summer!

Oh hell yeah, we'll have it out. Lakeville isn't too far, that lake is great and there are lots of coves where the water is like glass, nice and smooth.

 

[scrisp]

some people have recommended pulling the feed line at the carbs, and applying a bit of low pressure compressed air to the return to push the fuel through the lines. with completely empty lines it can take as much as 30 seconds of cranking. be sure not to run the starter more than 10 or so seconds at a time so you don't burn it up.

Thanks, I'm wondering of the lines aren't plugged or it needs a primer bulb installed. It has sat for so long without any fuel, it make have clogged everything up when the gas eveporated. If I can't get it running over the next couple of days, I'm just going to start taking the fuel lines out and getting the carbs either taken apart and done at my house, or sent off for a rebuild, and wait until next summer to get it running.

I can still fog the cylinders, just hoped to get it to run.

 

[scrisp]

It is ALIVE!!!!! :cheers:

I finally got it running and it purrs like a kitten. I disconnected the fuel line right where it splits before the carbs and shot a bit of air in that, back into the tank. It looked as though there was no gas at all in the fuel line, and when it pressurized the tank, the fuel flowed back through the line. It looked like mud coming out at first. I did it a couple of times until clear gas started coming out, then I presurized it one last time, and connected the fuel line back up quickly, and the gas filled the carbs. She started right up, as soon as I hit the throttle about 7 or 8 times and pulled the choke.

The exhaust was horrible at first, all of that oil makes a ton of smoke and fumes. I ran it for about 15 seconds and shut it off until I could pull it out to the driveway and the hose.

Here's a little video that I made of the first run longer than a few seconds.

There is a hole in the pipe, you can see it at the 15 second mark. It looks like they previous owner tried to use something like JB Weld to fix it, it;s kind crusty looking where you see the water squirting out. Is that a major undertaking to replace the pipe or is something like JB Weld, and acceptable way to fix it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSL049Lfj5A

 

[Matt Braley]

OK so now you have the confirmed win under your belt. Pull those carbs of and fully drain the tank bone dry. Un-do every connection and apply DI-electric grease to every fitting. Install a new wear ring and pump oil. File the burrs off your impeller with a straight file or if it's really beat up then send it to Impros with your model ski and a list of the mods you are using. Start competing with me on e-bay and the classified section of these wonderful forums.

The proper way to have the thin welch plugs repaired on stock Seadoo pipes(developed and cast by Westcoast originally) is to have them heli-arced at a welding shop. The JB weld fix is a timebomb waiting to fail you when you have carved out time to have fun.

 

[scrisp]

Hmm, wonder how much a repair would be? I saw a used pipe from a fresh water Doo but it's $160 shipped, Yikes!!

My first thing is the fuel lines/tank, they are brittle and I HATE those original style clamps. The filter an maybe a primer will be next. I also want to do the oil lines and the carb rebuld. I also have to repair the gel coat on the hull.

I'm going to try my hand at making a cart this weekend form 4" PVC, so that I can put the trailer out behind my garage and make some room on the garage to work, plus it gets it lower to the gorund to make it easier to work on.

 

[suke]

Hmm, wonder how much a repair would be? I saw a used pipe from a fresh water Doo but it's $160 shipped, Yikes!!

My first thing is the fuel lines/tank, they are brittle and I HATE those original style clamps. The filter an maybe a primer will be next. I also want to do the oil lines and the carb rebuld. I also have to repair the gel coat on the hull.

I'm going to try my hand at making a cart this weekend form 4" PVC, so that I can put the trailer out behind my garage and make some room on the garage to work, plus it gets it lower to the gorund to make it easier to work on.

4" PVC is overkill and a smidge harder to work with. Go with 3".

 

[RebuiltSeadooBaffles]

Nice find, glad its running good!

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Should be about $40 to weld it, maybe more if it need all of them fixed.

Nice work.

 

[Strizzo]

4" PVC is overkill and a smidge harder to work with. Go with 3".

why not just build it out of lumber for like 1/4 the cost?

 

[suke]

why not just build it out of lumber for like 1/4 the cost?

Good point! If I had to do it over again that's the route I would go. The PVC route isn't exactly cheap. It's still $100 in materials......now that we've successfully hijacked the thread. lol

 

[RodInEscondido]

nice find

bigjake made a post relating to fuel tank recall which appears to cover your ski, check
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?20163-Cracked-gas-tank!!&highlight=fuel+tank+recall

As far as putting gas in the cylinders or carbs for a test run, my browsing this forum shows it should be ok if you use the proper 40:1 gas/oil mixture ... sparingly. Also probably a good idea, until being sure your oil injection is working properly, to use this mixed gas for your first engine runs ... a little extra smoke and maybe fouled plugs, but much less costly than running with no oil. There is a gob of information relating to the proper oil to use on this forum and how to check the oil injection system.

Rod

 

[summer]

OK so you know it runs. Thats great. Now since it's been sitting for a while go through everything as Matt suggested. No sense rushing to throw it in the water only to sieze a piston when a carb plugs up or find out the hard way that a bearing in the pump is bad. Cheaper to go through everything and find nothing wrong then skip it and something break. With the money you saved on buying it you can easily do all this rather routine maint. and still be way ahead in cash. :thumbsup:

 

[Toadman]

Scott
Looks good and nice find. I don't think the trailer is that bad either as long as it gets the ski back and forth to the water that is all that matters. Today is supposed to be 73. I wish I didn't winterize!

 

[scrisp]

Scott
Looks good and nice find. I don't think the trailer is that bad either as long as it gets the ski back and forth to the water that is all that matters. Today is supposed to be 73. I wish I didn't winterize!

It's supposed to be sunny and really nice on Sunday too, so I might finally get it in the water for a trip or two around the lake for just a bit of a shake down. I put the handlebars back on a few minutes ago, got the switches all back the housing, only to find that the VTS does work. :thumbsup:

The trailer need some work, the lights are shot, so will be adding a LED set over the winter and probably try to sell that and my other single Shorelander trailer in the spring, and get a double. I might keep both skis, I really like my SPX, but who knows once I ride the XP. lol

 

[Matt Braley]

Take a good hot lap out in the open with your seat off. Whatch everything over for water leaks ans make sure to reach WOT because some leaks wont reveal themselves until then when the water pressure is greatest. Be sure to look at the water valve on top of your water box and the pipe to manifold gasket. Hope you have a great weekend out there.

 

[scrisp]

Take a good hot lap out in the open with your seat off. Whatch everything over for water leaks ans make sure to reach WOT because some leaks wont reveal themselves until then when the water pressure is greatest. Be sure to look at the water valve on top of your water box and the pipe to manifold gasket. Hope you have a great weekend out there.

I got it in the lake today, 52 degrees, brrrrrr... I let it idle to about 100 yards offshore and hit the throttle. It ran good for a couple of seconds, and then it was as if someone has put a cover over the carbs and it bogged down to where it almost quit. It idles fine, and will rev when put to almost half throttle, but falls over on its face once the rpms get above what I'm guessing is about 4000. It doesn't do it everytime, sometimes it will rev right up, but then it will fall off. It's as if it's running out of fuel. I only put 1.5 gallons in the bone dry tank, so I guess that it could be that.

I will be changing the fuel lines and getting the carbs rebuilt, so hopefully that is all it is.

I made a video of it running on the trailer to demonstrate what it's doing, but the volume isn't as loud as I wanted.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0B1AuLJsf0k&feature=youtu.be

 

[Seadoobuddy]

The carb filters could still be clogged with the goo from the bad fuel lines, not allowing enough fuel to the carbs at higher speeds.
Rebuild them and replace the fuel lines then retest it.

 

[smc0922]

The carb filters could still be clogged with the goo from the bad fuel lines, not allowing enough fuel to the carbs at higher speeds.
Rebuild them and replace the fuel lines then retest it.

^this. I deal with it all the time at work with small engines. High speed jets are clogged/fouled along with the filters in the carbs. Rebuild them over the winter and you will be good. Doing the same with my GSi.