well as far as epoxy paint goes it is really hard and works the best on steel because there is no flex ..I would never use it on fiberglass because it flexes just a bit and will crack up ...I would sand it with 80 primer it wetsand the primer with 400 ,seal it and paint & clear ...I think that would be the best bet and will give you a amazing look ..But it all comes down to how good you want it to look ?
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Painting Bottom of the Hull
- Thread starter soccerdad
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I didn't read through all the posts, so if this was mentioned, disregard. Do not paint the Ride Plate. If you are not aware, the Ride Plate is also the heat exchanger. If you paint it, it looses the ability to transfer the heat from the engine and it will creat an over-heat situation.
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
Wow, that is news to me! I just pulled mine off and it is really corroded and missing most of the black paint. Is it OK to repaint it black? Water does not go through it (in the normal heat exchanger sense), how does it cool the motor?
I think I need to correct myself. Thought I was in the 4-tec section. I believe 2 strokes are entirely pump cooled. Sorry about that.
nckb
Active Member
For paint, I was looking to paint an outboard recently, and found this
http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepaint/pc/viewprd.asp?idproduct=11#details
I did not end up painting it, but it looks like reasonably priced paint intended for all over application on boats.
http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepaint/pc/viewprd.asp?idproduct=11#details
I did not end up painting it, but it looks like reasonably priced paint intended for all over application on boats.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Preparation is key, be sure to dewax throughly before sanding so the oils aren't ground into the gelcoat and again after sanding.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
One aspect that can make a huge difference is the paint should be unaffected by fuel spills. Many of the single part paints aren't very solvent resistant. Of course that can be a benefit in some cases as well.
scrisp
Active Member
There is a thread someplace on these forums about using bed liner to do the bottom of the hull. I can;t find it, but I seem to remember the person saying that he had great luck with it and it was watertight.
There was also a discussion about leaving the bottom of the hull rough, so that it corners better. Someone was saying that the Seadoo Race Team used to drag their new hulls up and down the beach to roughen them up, so that they would handle better. lol
I'm doing mine in the spring, just to repair some gouges and scrapes, nothing too deep though. Not doing the entire hull, just from the point where the hook attaches, out to the width of the ride plate.
There was also a discussion about leaving the bottom of the hull rough, so that it corners better. Someone was saying that the Seadoo Race Team used to drag their new hulls up and down the beach to roughen them up, so that they would handle better. lol
I'm doing mine in the spring, just to repair some gouges and scrapes, nothing too deep though. Not doing the entire hull, just from the point where the hook attaches, out to the width of the ride plate.
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
Check out my project Shamu thread. You will see what I am up against. If scratches help, then mine will corner on rails!!! At this point, it will likely be paint up the center section. I will revisit it later, but I have some other big things on my plate and will likely take the easy way out this time.
scrisp
Active Member
Just checked out your project, your hull looks a bit like mine. I have a few spots where you can see the glass. I'd like to roll mine too, I'll have to empty the fuel/oil tanks, they are both about half full. Hopefully, I'll have my own house by spring, where I can rig up an electric winch for projects like this. I'm renting right now, and not sure fi the landlord would like me doing things to the rafters in his new garage. lol
Back in my high-performance radio controlled boat days, all I ever used for paint was IMRON. The stuff is incredibly tough once cured...60% nitromethane fuel had no effect on it, never bubbled or lifted.
69boss
Active Member
Don't think it is available any longer to the general public. May still be used on aircraft. I painted cars and equipment for 15 years. That stuff is an awesome product once cured but exposure to it during application is a killer and horribly expensive. There are other products that come close.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Interlux bottom barrier coat is pretty popular:
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/primers/interprotect-2000e.aspx
And their 2-part polyurethane deck paints are as well:
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/finishes/search.aspx
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/primers/interprotect-2000e.aspx
And their 2-part polyurethane deck paints are as well:
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/finishes/search.aspx
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
I went ahead and used rustoleum black epoxy appliance paint. It took three spray cans. I wet sanded it after it cured for a couple of days with 1000 grit. Then medium cut compound, then polishing compound. It came out great looking. We will see how it holds up. I found a bunch of posts on other forums about people successfully using it. However, it does say not for use under water and to not use it for sinks. But it is "washable". I can always fix it next season if it does not last. I am cautiously hopeful. 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I don't know about the black but I've never had problems with the white, it blends right in and I lose track of where it was applied. Also says not an exterior paint too, but I've not had any problems, epoxy is waterproof and should make a good barrier coat. Maybe I'm missing something but for me it's done well best I can account for.....
I even oversprayed my impeller not on purpose, was using it to seal exposed fibers inside the pump where the gel coat was knocked off around the impeller, and it's still on the impeller with no signs of letting go.
I even oversprayed my impeller not on purpose, was using it to seal exposed fibers inside the pump where the gel coat was knocked off around the impeller, and it's still on the impeller with no signs of letting go.
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Where did you get that black seat cover?
glsmohio
Well-Known Member
That was a cheap one off ebay... like $30
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