Opinions on Full Bore VS SBT For Engine Rebuild?

[Hicktown]

Hey guys, well it appears I have seized the motor on my SPX (800) during the last run of the season. :facepalm: Looks like I'll be getting a rebuilt motor put in for next season. The two options I'm strongly considering are SBT and Full Bore in Michigan. Main positive of SBT would of course be the 2 year no-fault warranty, which is nice to have. Turnaround time is very fast, but this isn't much of an issue for me since I can send in my motor this week, and don't really need one back until Spring.

On the other hand, I have heard good things about Full Bore. They seem to use better quality parts than SBT, and I will be getting my actual motor back, rather than a random motor that's been pieced together. Full bore will also remove/replace the PTO, flyhwheel, rotary valve, and set the timing for no extra charge, which SBT does not do. They're also running a winter special right now, which will actually make it $100 cheaper than SBT, and also an extra year of warranty will be added, making it a 3 year warranty. Only thing is, I am not sure if this is a "no fault" warranty, or if they will try to determine fault on a warranty claim.

At this point, with all things being equal, I would go with Full Bore, as they are cheaper than SBT, and with an even longer warranty than SBT. The only thing that keeps me coming back to SBT is the "no fault" warranty. Anyone have any experience with Full Bore, especially regarding their warranty claims? Just looking for some opinions on both companies to help make my decision.:thumbsup:

 

[Mekanix]

Have you considered SES as well?

 

[Hicktown]

Have you considered SES as well?

Yes, I have considered them. But, various stories I've read on here and other forums made me think twice about using them. Of course, I am keeping all my options open, so if you or anyone else has had success with them, I would love to hear about it. SES does seem to be the cheapest option of the 3, and they have the 2 year no fault warranty as well.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

Build it yourself and save some money all around.

Top end at full bore will be $300,

you can get a oem rebuilt crank for $350 from scspowersports in Michigan, and a rebuilt counterbalncer is only $75.

You will need about another $100 in tools and misc items like ,locktite, grease, yamabond or similiar, flywheel puller.

This way you know exactly what is going into your motor.

There are many threads on here showing guys rebuilds like [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] thread the clapped out 96 xp.

We have a few threads too.

Here is one of the ones we did

 

[Jetskigoodies]

Check these threads out.


Clapped out rebuild
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?56273-96-XP-Resto-Project-Clapped-out&highlight=Clapped

Our 98 spx rebuild
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?58779-98-spx-restoration

 

[jammin777]

i went with ses, just shipped it to them last friday and should get it back in a month. ( rebuilding my engine) i just barely made the special dead line shipped free both ways for a premium 787 rfi motor with 2 year no fault warranty. tom also removes the pto and flywheel no extra charge and also said ok with leaving he rotary cover on as well. full bore would have been my 2nd choice. actually a toss up.

 

[racerxxx]

A HUGE +1 on the rebuild yourself if you have the knowledge/tools. It's the only way I fly, I honestly don't know how guys can offer a no fault warranty. I know for sure on my end it won't puke, but way too many variables on the "installers" end to go wrong. Like [MENTION=51350]Jetskigoodies[/MENTION] ,I want to know what is going into my engine. Which ever way you decide to go, it's all about having fun on the H2O. I have exactly $828.79 into my engine and it's all new, all OEM and that includes some extra parts I got as well. That is parts only, no labor

 

[Hicktown]

Thanks for all the replies so far. Unfortunately, I don't have the skill or experience to do the rebuild myself. Maybe someday. For now I'd be better off getting it done by a reputable company and having a warranty with it.

 

[Hicktown]

i went with ses, just shipped it to them last friday and should get it back in a month. ( rebuilding my engine) i just barely made the special dead line shipped free both ways for a premium 787 rfi motor with 2 year no fault warranty. tom also removes the pto and flywheel no extra charge and also said ok with leaving he rotary cover on as well. full bore would have been my 2nd choice. actually a toss up.

Nice, sounds like a great deal. After more research, SES is definitely back on my radar as a shop I'm considering.

 

[PGHMAN]

I used Full Bore in August for my top-end, cost was $380 (including ship) to go 1 over, pistons, rings, bearings plus gasket set. Dan at FB was very good to work with. I purchased OEM crank from SHS plus CB bearings.
As RacerXXX states above, if you have skills and tools rebuild it yourself. I learned a lot in the 6 weeks it took to build mine and now knowing that I have quality parts in the motor. It seemed a little inteminating at first but it's a 2 cycle with minimal parts.
There's plenty of guys on the forum to assit you.

 

[LouDoo]

I have had experience with both company's, I have a rebuilt SBT 787 premium engine and just went through my third season, and a buddy bought a top end rebuild for full bore, both a great companies. Since shipping is a factor, and you're in Lake City, TN (?), probably SBT is your best bet.

Lou

 

[Hicktown]

Thanks Lou. What was the compression on your motor when you first received it from SBT, vs now?

 

[LouDoo]

To be honest when I first got the rebuilt engine compression was a little low, around 138 to 140, after break in, in the mid 140's so it was and still is a little less than ideal, but I have not noticed the compression dropping and the motor runs real strong.

Lou

 

[Hicktown]

Thanks for all the input so far. Spoke to Tom from SES and Dan from Full Bore today. Was pretty happy with what I heard from both, so I guess I've narrowed it down to those two shops. SES is quite a bit cheaper, but Full Bore has an extra year of warranty and seems like they will do a very good job.

I still welcome any feedback from anyone else who's used either company. It's a tough choice and I really do want to make sure I make the right one.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

One thing you need to do is find out why your motor died and address that issue before installing whichever motor you are going with. I know both places have a warranty but if it goes out again next june you will be down at least a month and out shipping cost and labor. If you are not too mechanicly inclined, I would suggest sending your carbs out to dr honda.

 

[Hicktown]

One thing you need to do is find out why your motor died and address that issue before installing whichever motor you are going with. I know both places have a warranty but if it goes out again next june you will be down at least a month and out shipping cost and labor. If you are not too mechanicly inclined, I would suggest sending your carbs out to dr honda.

10-4 on all the above. I am going to find out the cause of the failure, because the last thing I want is down time during the Summer, Summer is short enough around here as it is. I believe I may have already found the cause of the failure. Looks like the oil injection cable somehow came off of the oil pump. I know in these cases, a spring is supposed move the pump into the "full on" position, but this doesn't seem to be the case, as the pump is basically moving around on its own free will, not returning to any set place. Also, the motor was not smoking excessively or running rough at idle, so I have a hard time believing oil was pumping in at full blast. Maybe the spring came off the pump. I will look at it some more tomorrow to verify, but this seems to be my problem.

Also, will be sending in my carbs to Dr.honda at some point before Spring time. I rebuilt them 2 years ago, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. All fuel lines have already been changed, etc, so I don't think it was a fuel delivery issue.

 

[howie099]

All I can tell you about SES is I don't think they have great customer service in and warranty work on your engine is way to slow. I sent my engine back to them with a down cylinder after 10 mins of riding. I was told the crack was blue the paint turned colors and that was done was a top end or 1 cylinder fixed that took 3 months plus the engine was lost in shipping for 3 weeks. I know the bottom was not apart because of perfect paint on bottom and gaskets. Take this how you want but I couldn't recommend them. I called all the time after a month being there and told every time almost done shipping in a few days it took another 2 months from that.

 

[Hicktown]

Thanks for the info.

 

[grhonk]

I have no experience with SES. I'm sending my engine into Dan. He and his wife are very responsive to emails and phone calls. When I leave a message they are always returning my call within 10-15 minutes. Full Bore sounds like a very respectable business and will stand by their work .. very professional in my opinion. I like the fact they return my engine and my crankshaft. I really don't know how different a welded crankshaft is from the original, but that was another deciding factor for me over SBT. I tore down my engine, but when I realized I had to split the crankshaft to replace the inner bearings, that's when I knew I was over my head. If it was just a top end job, I would have attacked it myself.

BTW, are you in Lake City, Michigan?