Old style synthetic oil versus new

[Mekanix]

Having a bit of a brain fart moment, the old style Seadoo mineral and synthetic oil what colours were they?
And what are the colours of the new mineral and synthetic?

I have a machine here that is an 951 that has golden colour oil which is I think old style synthetic. And the thing is I haven't used the new style Mineral yet but I remember something vaguely that it is golden colour like the old synthetic used to be.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, the old and new mineral is a dark honey color.
The old synthetic was golden light honey colored.
The new synthetic is red.
All can still be safely mixed with each other.

 

[drjack]

And the other thing that throws ME off, the OEM synthetic oil use to come in a yellow container. The new black containers are confusing as they don't specifically say API-TC

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, seadoo keeps changing the packaging and names on their oil just to make it way more confusing than it needs to be.

I still wish... Mineral Oil = White Bottle, Semi Synthetic = Black Bottle and Full Synthetic = Yellow bottle. Not sure why that needed to change.

 

[Mekanix]

Cut cost, black is cheap, black, yellow, white..... cost for the dye goes up.
Now they just print different lables on same color bottle and for recycling its easier.

The pictures are what I go by. As long as the outboard motor at the end is red, its api-tc...

Lol i kept theold jugs for a while and would put new stuff in it to keep them seperate.

 

[Mekanix]

Thanks for the help. I wasnt sure if i was going to drain it or not since it looked synthetic. But its definitely 3 plus years old.

 

[mikidymac]

The oil doesn’t go bad.

I just used an old bottle of mineral oil from the 90’s in my superjet this summer and it worked perfectly fine.

 

[POPPS]

I have been involved in racing pwc's (800 cc LTD class) , since around 1998, and we have been using shell nautilus synthetic ever since. We usually rev around 7700, and we have never attributed an engine failure to the oil. The bonus is that it is far cheaper than BRP, and that the blue die helps me find a leak versus the semi transparent oil. Now and then, I can be at Walmart at the right time, and get a 7 litre container on sale for half the BRP price. Usually that happens in the winter, where it is sold for ski doos, but skidoos and seadoos use the same oil, it must be fully synthetic.

 

[mikidymac]

What Nautilus oil are you using Popps?
The only one I see is TCW-3 and doesn’t say anything about being synthetic.

 

[POPPS]

Perhaps it is in Canada only, Ontario, it is shell nautilus, synthetic, not a blend, it is blue, comes in 1 US quart, about to 800
( ml) , Canadian, Is a bargain compared to the BRP.
And as I mentioned, in the winter, sometimes, I can get it on sale, for ski doos. The synthetic covers any 2 stroke machine, let alone a racing motor, premixed of course.

 

[POPPS]

Okay, I need to figure out how to send a pic, am new on here. It is Shell ADVANCE , snow ultra, low smoke, injection or premix, 2T , high performance synthetic snowmobile oil. 946 ml ( cc) . The summer oil just has a pic of a pwc, been using it since 1996 .

 

[mikidymac]

Doesn’t show up as correct oil here in the states.

Take a look at the Klotz R-50 POPPS. That’s the racing oil I would use.

 

[POPPS]

We have klotz Up here, it smells super sweet with race fuel, we used it for a while, then lost the sponsership ( it's expensive) . , My true testament for the shell nautilus synthetic is that I use it at a 40:1 ratio with 110 race octane, that in 2004 at lake Havasu, world finals in 76 degree water, air temp high 90's , 7700 rpm, in the 800 cc LTD expert class, we won the class championship without a mechanical failure, and that in 2005 , at Havasu, in 67 degree water, air temp low 90's, we won our class again, (7700 rpm) , 800 cc amateur LTD, without a mechanical failure. And so to this day, of course, I still use it, even if I can' t find it on sale.

 

[mikidymac]

We have klotz Up here, it smells super sweet with race fuel, we used it for a while, then lost the sponsership ( it's expensive) . , My true testament for the shell nautilus synthetic is that I use it at a 40:1 ratio with 110 race octane, that in 2004 at lake Havasu, world finals in 76 degree water, air temp high 90's , 7700 rpm, in the 800 cc LTD expert class, we won the class championship without a mechanical failure, and that in 2005 , at Havasu, in 67 degree water, air temp low 90's, we won our class again, (7700 rpm) , 800 cc amateur LTD, without a mechanical failure. And so to this day, of course, I still use it, even if I can' t find it on sale.

That's awesome Popps! Glad we have an actual racer here on th forum. For racing you guys keep everything so perfect that I am not surprised to see no oil failures, I honestly can't remember a single oil related failure from the racing guys.
For the average guy and the average ski that sits a lot and doesn't get maintenance enough I really think the API-TC oils are the only thing that should be run and recommended in the seadoo's. From inner crank seal failures to dirty RAVE valves the API-TC is it.

Now... if I was racing I would only use premixed Klotz, even in a seadoo. In my superjet I run Klotz SkiCraft because I only burn 20-30 gallons of fuel a year in it and it smells so good, is the correct TCW-3 for that ski and no rotary valve or powervalves. But in my all stock seadoo's I only use XPS synthetic.

 

[POPPS]

Yup, klotz with race gas smells better than perfume on a hot chick lol. I avoid amsoil because it leaves a light brown tinge on my plugs, making it hard for me to read the motor.

 

[Barrys1976]

I believe the yellow bottles were made by Castrol and now the black ones are by redline.