• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Oil injection block off questions

Status
Not open for further replies.

Dutch

New Member
I just got a block off plate for the oil injector on my 1998 sea doo GTS. I would like to know what to do with all the oil lines running to the engine. Do I just drain the oil and leave them connected? And what is a good oil to gas mix to use. Dutch
 
hey Dutch...w/ the block-off kit, you should have 2 little caps and 1 big one. The big one, for under the resivoir tank, which the line that has filter on it, gets deleted. The 2 small caps, goes to spigots on rotary plate, where 2 little oil lines from pump run to, cap those off. So then your only left w/ the 2 big lines, one to feed case, and one to return oil back to resivoir..40-50/1. 16oz oil to 5gal=40/1,6gal=50/1..:cheers:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
YAH...they serve purpose, oil still needs to feed the rotary assy inside the case, thats why you leave the resivoir in there, full of oil,( i'd use synthetic), but need topremix the gas(premix oil only). You can pop the 2 lines off, drain them in bottle..etc, then reinstall, this is after you've drained the resivoir. Then get synthetic or whatever "injector oil", and refill tank...
 
Cool, well last but not least, im going to start her up on land and I got a flush kit but have no idea where to hook up the hose. I can see on the starboard side behind the pump theres a plug to screw out to let the water out but I cant see where to hook the hose to get the water in. And is there anything I should know before I start it up? An one last question, do you know how much fuel the tank will hold, id like to not have to drain the tank and re-fill it to get the mixture right. I want to just fill it full and then add the fuel. Thanks again, Dutch
 
Last edited by a moderator:
oil tank

If I wanted to remove the big oil tank from the boat, could I use a much smaller tank to hook the 2 oil lines to, such as a 1 qt container with 2 fittings on it and a fill cap. Bad idea? The sensor would have to be dealt with I know.
 
you can ignore the sensor if you are going premix. the oil level won't be dropping unless you get a leak. there is no sense to change to a smaller tank, unless you are planning on putting a beer cooler there. just leave a couple of inches of oil in bottom of tank.
 
there are 2 hoses that hit the rear of the head. i have seen flush kit on either, but 1 is wrong. one hose goes to the jet pump and feeds water to the motor when running. it doesn't go on this one. it goes on the one that lets water back out. i think that goes to the exhaust down low on the GTS ski. this is actually a 91 or 92 hull that they kept making until 99. cut the hose about 3 to 4 inches from head and install flusher. you can really put it anywhere on that hose that is most convenient, but close to head it doesn't flop around.
 
Ok, I have some contradictory info. I found online that at 40:1 mixture its 3.2 oz. per gallon and at 12.5 gal fuel cap. that means I need 40 oz. per full tank. Is this correct?
 
hey Dutch..do it everytime, stating oil to gas mixture...16oz's to 5gal=40/1...so yah, 40oz's is correct...corrected my previous post...
 
I had the oil tank empty when I took it out today for its first ride since the rebuild and saw the red light on the oil gauge on but I took it out anyway and about 30 sec at high speed the engine just died and the starter woundnt turn the engine over. Could this be caused by not having any oil in the tank? is there some sort of engine shut off if the oil tank is not full? Im using the injector block off plate and premix gas incase you wernt familiar. Dutch
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The engine is not froze up and I can turn the engine over by hand but its very hard to do. When I keep pushing the start button it inches the flywheel around. Maybe the battery is weak? I still think theres a cut off tied to the oil sensor.
 
I found out that the battery was dead hence my starting porblem, but is there a kil switch connected to the oil sensor? Dutch
 
there is no kill button or interlock connected to oil light. but you need to have some oil in the tank. it oils the rotary valve drive gears. don't leave it empty. engine is supposed to be hard to turn by hand with plugs in. easy to turn with plugs out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thats what I was afraid of. I think there was quite a bit of strait gas in the lines and I think thats what caused my engine to stop, even with a fully charged battery it wont kick it over all the way. Im going to have to pull the jugs again and grease em up, then drain whats left of strait gas in the lines and try her again. Is there a break in process after changing to new pistons?
 
Well I found the problem. Pulled the jugs and the pto side rod is froze up on the crank. Dont know what could have caused this but Im going to remove the engine and try and free up the rod. Is there anything I might want to replace or look out for, or is the rod pretty much junk and just get a new one. Thanks again for your repeated help guys, Im a newbie to the jet ski world and I knew it would be an adventure. Dutch
 
darn, Dutch...think its a coincidence,...install block-off, and bearing freezes up. the oil thats in the gas, lubes the rod, beaaring assy, but got lucky, w/ the rotary assy, not hav'n oil in bottle,.. but, hard to believe, that the little bit of strate gas did this damage, since you've just converted to premix.,
 
sorry dude, you need a crank. look into the slot on bottom side of rod. you can't see any rollers cause they are gone. that is what happens when they sieze. and no, it didn't happen because of any couple of ounces of straight gas in the lines. it just picked now to die.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top