• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Oh no! This is bad!!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Coastiejoe said:
I'm thinking they either do not know what happened or are not being honest. If it was a water issue, then you would for sure get rid of the fuel. That alone is a red flag for me. I'm guessing they found the issue and it is a coverable item and they are blowing smoke to make themselves sound like hero's...
Click to expand...

I'm going with they are not being honest. If you really wanted to see if there was water, pull the fuel sender out, take a clear tube and put your finger over one end and stick it into the bottom of the tank. Release thumb to fill tube and the put thumb back on and remove tube. The water would be in the bottom part of the tube (if there is any). While there may be some (there always is due to condensation), I bet there isn't enough to make any difference at all.
 
OhNoItsMe said:
Good news!

I brought it back to where i had the work done and they will take care of it since, I quote 'we cleaned out and de-greased the engine compartment but if the boat was leaning forward some debris may have made its way to the front and we may have missed it'

As for the owners manual already have it downloaded and the blue oil is what is left over from the previous owner not sure what it is. My oil tank is nearly empty so i'm considering empting it out and put in xp-s syn as for my break-in that was done with bombardier mineral oil (put in by dealer)

Lastly while i was looking things over i did notice my carbon seal was not snug to the shaft i could move it up,down, left, right w/o much effort... I'm guessing this is not optimal

And thanks again for your help Waterluvr!!!
Click to expand...

Running your oil injection system with TC-W3 oil as clearly pictured in photograph #6 of your original post describing the oil leak at the RV connection is what killed your new motor, regardless of having pre-mixed the fuel tank with XPS-2 synthetic a rave valve equipped 787 engine requires the salt additives package in XPS-2 to combat heat in the combustion chamber and power valve.

1. No reputable shop would have sent out a freshly rebuilt engine and hooked the injection system and rotary bath to a tank containing TC-W3 oil, but there it is plain as day in your first post in this thread.
2. No way a shop would warranty a 787 engine that failed using TC-W3 oil in the injection system. Adding XPS-2 synthetic to the fuel tank accomplished little or nothing to avoid destroying a new engine with TC-W3 being injected. We know your injection system is hooked up as you described it having been adjusted by your dealer after the rebuild here: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...or-slow-speeds&p=425295&viewfull=1#post425295
3. Story about water in the gas killing the engine and dealer coughing up big bucks to go ahead and warranty the failure.

Really?
 
Yeah thats why i'm sceptical babout the water contamination explaination. Should i get the oil tank purged to b sure only xps-2 is the only oil in the system? I'm thinking of doing it to b on the safe side also is the mag piston gonna survive as is or has the damage been done and only a question of time b4 it goes?

Ty
 
Ok so I just got back from the dealer and had a little conversation with the service director I called them on all the things that bugged me about the supposed water contamination, the fact that they didn't purge the oil system of the unknown oil prior to rebuild and didn't us xps-2 oil for break-in, the fact that some hoses were reconnected with tie-wraps instead of tridon clamps or proper hose clamps. It also came out that my accelerator pump diaphragm that they diagnosed as bad but let me take the boat due to not having 1 available till end of September may have let the pto cylinder run lean thus killing it.

The end result of all this is as follows, they will replace the pto cylinder and piston/rings but as my mag is 82.29mm they will use a stock pto 82mm and tell me it's not a big enough difference to adversely affect the engine. They will clean out the crank case and purge the oil from my system to ensure that only xps-2 is oil in my system as per the owners manual.

I just want to check to corroborate that having mag 82.29mm and pto 82mm will I fact not be an issue and if anyone has or knows of where I can find the accelerator pump diaphragm part# 270500310 I only need the diaphragm not the whole assembly

Thanks again!

Edit

Oh and the whole water contamination excuse flew out the window lol
 
Pure hackery running one overbore cylinder, don't settle for that! They can resleeve the cylinders to the original 82mm bore or go much bigger using Pro-X pistons, they screwed your engine up hold their feet to the fire.

You can order the square accelerator pump diaphragm from SBT.
 
OhNoItsMe said:
Thanks again for all your help!
Click to expand...

Your welcome, that is one shady operation to have sent a motor back out the door like that I hope you can get it resolved with them, I'd be very skeptical at this point if they are even remotely qualified to be doing work on Rotax engines.

Bottom line is they should have called you to inform you they had found the wrong oil in the tank and there should have been some additional charges needed to clean that out, change the filter and put an adequate amount of XPS-2 back in the tank to get you started with the new motor.

It really is imperative to use the correct oil in these, the amount of HP produced by the 787 was unmatched in the industry for that size engine but a massive amount of heat comes along with it and ashless oils aren't up to the task. Whoever performed the work on your engine and installed it back into the boat and connected the injection pump and Rotary Valve back to an oil tank full of TC-W3 was a rank amateur hack on their best day.

Feel free to provide the *Service Director* a link to this thread if they give you any hassles, I'd be happy to discuss the matter on your behalf.
 
Does anyone in up-state ny or vermont have the mikuni diaphragm i need 35-180-31 in stock and preferably new?? I'm willing to drive down today to pick it up and pay cash even pay for your gas if u drive up to meet me ty

Heres the part i need http://www.shopsbt.com/mikuni-jet-s...i-body-accelerator-pump-diaphragm-square.html

If no ine has i'll order it online but kinda need it asap as online shipping is 8-10 days and with labor day weekend around the corner it'll take longer and i'd like to take the boat out this weekend w/o worring anout my bad pump

Ty!
 
I don't have one but possibly my local Seadoo mechanic might have one in Vaudreuil: Call Steve at 514-973-2072
other possibility in Terrebonne: call Mike at: 514-583-8571
Where in Quebec are you?
 
Well i called topmarine in the morning he gave me a # to call so i did but the guy i spoke to wasnt sure he had cus he was bringing the one he had to an other guy. So i called steve and turns out he was the guy getting the pump lol so he told me he gave the broken one he was replacing to the first guy i called and told me the diaphragm was ok on it so i got it from the first guy woth an assist from steve!
 
So this was a long long weekend for me the dealer doing the warrantee repair was short 1 needle bearing so still no boat for me:bs::bs::bs: the local weather girl says we'll have a few warm days this week and a decent week-end so hopefully I get some hours in before the deepfreeze sets in I'm going a little :willy_nilly: being stuck on land or on my friends pontoon boat but nothing I can really do about it now..... All I know is next time I have an issue I'll deal with it MY OWN D##N SELF!
 
Ok so I've just been informed that my boat will be ready tomorrow. Along with the fact that my fuel selector was faulty and causing a restriction thus pto carb was starved and pto cylinder running uber-lean! Oh and turns out there was an extra part on my boat! And it was causing some big problems the perko fitting that exits the hull at the back had been plugged at some point with a perko plug and gasket!!!! According to them it'll b ready tomorrow as they want to re-test it and wash it but at this point I'm not holding my breath

I have defiantly decided to work on my boat myself from now on as I'm guessing there's now way I can screw things up worse then they have oh and their 'fix' to my fuel valve is bypassing it completely and thus no more off or reserve not sure that's considered 'normal' but I don't like it at all so I ordered a brand new valve from brp for 38$ Canadian ant will swap it out myself
 
Not only will you save money on labor, but parts markup too. When things go wrong on the water, you will be prepared also. I carry the pdf of my manual on my phone, just in case.
 
So I got the boat back yesterday and took it out for a few hours and well... There are a few issues still there's an oil leak that I haven't looked for yet and at wot I'm only getting 6500/6700 rpm also my docking assistance is not working anymore I'm gonna read the manual but I'm thinking that it's just an issue of throttle cable adjustment. Also if anyone has changed the fuel selector valve and has any tips for me how to do it w/o too much mucking around that would b helpful

Ty!
 
On the fuel selector perhaps the least obvious thing you should know is to remove the knob you have to remove the insert cover that hides the screw in order to remove this screw that attaches it to the selector shaft. Pry along the edge and this cover comes off to reveal the screw, much like a bathroom faucet handle.
 
Cool I saw that I'm guessing I'll need to remove the drive controls to hold the valve as I put it back in place? I'm thinking it'll just be kinda awkward putting it back due to the rubber gasket inside the hull...
 
Yeah, I dunno on your boat if you have to remove the helm controls to reach the valve but I can reach mine from inside the bilge using my fiberglass-proof long needle arms. I don't think removing the helm controls would help me.
 
OhNoItsMe said:
Cool I saw that I'm guessing I'll need to remove the drive controls to hold the valve as I put it back in place? I'm thinking it'll just be kinda awkward putting it back due to the rubber gasket inside the hull...
Click to expand...

Just remove the plug on the end of the fuel knob, remove the stainless phillips screw then pry off the knob and remove the nut holding the valve to the inner hull. You can pull the valve all the way out using the fuel lines from the engine bay on your boat.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

AK_Gearhead_96
1995 SeaDoo Speedster Keeps Blowing 15amp Charging System Fuse
Replies
0
Views
129
AK_Gearhead_96
AK_Gearhead_96
A_Bred
Bad vibrations on my RXP-255
Replies
1
Views
170
skiasylum
skiasylum
1
No thrust -2000 Sportster
Replies
2
Views
149
1970_mgb
1
1
No thrust -2000 Sportster
Replies
0
Views
104
1970_mgb
1
1
No thrust -2000 Sportster
Replies
0
Views
107
1970_mgb
1
Back
Top