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Oh no! This is bad!!!

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OhNoItsMe

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While inspecting my carbon seal i noticed broken wire clips and tie-wraps stuck between my engine and pto!! Along with fiberglass fragments!!

I had the entire engine rebuilt recently including a new crank

Last week i sucked up a tow rope at idle and the shaft was not damaged as the impeller is not grinding on the wear ring and the is no vibration from the engine compartment at all

I need opinions on what to do and potential cause
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And it seems my oil line is leaking at the connector in the oil pump
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Your last photo of the starter and case covered in *blue* oil, by chance are you using TC-W3 outboard oil in place of XPS-2 synthetic? You can go right to Sea Doo's website and get the original owners/operators manual for your boat free of charge, you should read that front to back and over again.

I have no opinion of the crud behind your pto other than it's a mess in there, a couple hours of scrubbing and the judicious use of a shop/wet vac would really help matters and you might be able to find the oil leak when it's cleaned up.
 
Good news!

I brought it back to where i had the work done and they will take care of it since, I quote 'we cleaned out and de-greased the engine compartment but if the boat was leaning forward some debris may have made its way to the front and we may have missed it'

As for the owners manual already have it downloaded and the blue oil is what is left over from the previous owner not sure what it is. My oil tank is nearly empty so i'm considering empting it out and put in xp-s syn as for my break-in that was done with bombardier mineral oil (put in by dealer)

Lastly while i was looking things over i did notice my carbon seal was not snug to the shaft i could move it up,down, left, right w/o much effort... I'm guessing this is not optimal

And thanks again for your help Waterluvr!!!
 
The seal does NOT sit tight on the shaft, it floats around the shaft. It is the bellows and the collars that are what make the seal work.
 
Well more good news!! Just got back from a 3hr joyride and clearing that debris out from the pto cleared up a few minor issues i was having!
- throttle response is much better(my guess is the debris was causing friction acting like a brake)
- water has stopped pouring in from the impeller shaft its now down to a trickle!(will fix that this winter)

Oh and i topped out at 78kph/48.5mph!!!

Man its sweet when its in top shape
 
It is normal to have some water trickling through. It acts as lubrication for the seals and keeps them cool.
 
It's normal to have a trickle of water coming from behind the boot where the shaft exits the hull even at a dead stop?
 
OhNoItsMe said:
It's normal to have a trickle of water coming from behind the boot where the shaft exits the hull even at a dead stop?
Click to expand...

No, not from behind it. Take the c-clip loose and slide the carrier forward so you can unclamp the bellows and inspect it all the way around it may be cracked or split.
 
If you push the stainless carrier toward the bellows about 1/4" you will expose #5 in that schematic, originally it was an o-ring (and may still be) or later models used a removable c-clip. If it's the c-clip just pry it up and out of the groove in the drive shaft, if it's the o-ring just roll it back out of the groove towards the pto.

You driveshaft actually has two grooves in it about an inch or so apart so you can vary the tension of the boot against the carbon seal and carrier, most Challengers are in spec for tension using the 2nd groove closest to the transom of the boat.

When you get the stainless carrier loose then you can unclamp the bellows at both ends and rotate it to inspect it.
 
Ohhh ok cool i'll check that before i take the boat out again ty!

I just got back from fishing and had a strange issue i'll try and look it up in the shop manual but here's what happened, i was getting ready to come in setting up my ropes and fenders (engine running)and when i went to get going i gave it too much throttle(my pulse diaphram needs to be replaced) it stalled. I put it in neutral and tried starting it but got 4 short beeps indicating i was not in neutral? So i tried sevral things from disconecting the battery to putting it in forward then neutral then reverse then neutral.... But the thing that worked was hitting the underside of the console where the fuses are located did that and got my 1 beep letting me know i was in neutral

I'm guessing its a loose or gunked up connection but atm i am clueless as to what it could be exactly

Ty for any input and if someone went through a similar experience and could point me in the right direction that would be helpful!
 
Could be that the switch is getting stuck. The bottom of your shift lever is shaped so that when in neutral, it pushes the neutral switch "plunger" down. When you switch into forward it releases.

Edit: on second thought, you'd experience the opposite of what you described if this was the case. Sorry.
 
dbracela said:
Could be that the switch is getting stuck. The bottom of your shift lever is shaped so that when in neutral, it pushes the neutral switch "plunger" down. When you switch into forward it releases.

Edit: on second thought, you'd experience the opposite of what you described if this was the case. Sorry.
Click to expand...

He would experience the opposite so long as the momentary portion of the switch and contacts were all in good order, I'm inclined to agree that there's a voltage/wiring/contact issue in the neutral switch since the smack to the dash and fuses corrected it.

On Edit: Testing procedure from the manual

Neutral Switch
When shifter lever is in neutral, the switch is
closed. The switch operation can be checked with
an ohmmeter.
Measure the resistance at switch posts. When
switch is not activated, resistance should be infinite.
If switch is activated, resistance should not
be greater than 1 W.
It is possible to measure the available voltage at
neutral switch. To do so, insert a key on post and
measure voltage between RED/WHITE and
BLACK wires. The voltage should be 5 V. You have
33 seconds to perform this operation.
If there is no voltage, problem may originate from
electrical circuit, fuse block and MPEM.
Check continuity of the 1_aa and 1_29 circuits.
Disconnect C-15 and C-16 connectors. Check
continuity between pins 5 and B of fuse block. If
there is no continuity, problem may originate from
fuse block.
Check RED/WHITE wire condition at electrical
box connector aa position.
When the previous circuits tested good, problem
may originate from MPEM.
NOTE: Vibration can cause a malfunction of the
neutral position switch. Indeed, vibration causes
contacts to shut off, which may bring about the
engine not to run over 3500 RPM.
 
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Well i took off the throttle controles and removed the neutral safety switch there was some dirt in there but not enough to hinder movement... I cleaned it off as best i could w/o my air gun. The problem has ceased for now so i think that was my issue

Lol these boats are very needy! Its like child always something going on!

But, man, what fun i've had so far even with all the little issues!

Thanks again for the help!
 
Ok well, I've taken the boat out a few times since I had the issue with the neutral safety and it haven't reoccurred so that gunk was the issue(gonna add that to my seasonal check list) after reading a few more threads here I've noticed that it's not 'normal' having to give it some throttle on start up so I checked out the troubleshooting section of the manual and that points me in the direction of the rotary valve timing. I'm gonna have to take a look at that and would appreciate knowing if there are any things I need to watch out for or if it's as 'simple' as it looks in the shop manual?

Ty!
 
Mostly cold start ups but on occasion warm start ups are troublesome

Edit, I was also looking at my throttle adjustment and I have some slack (1/8th throttle slack) now I've looked in the sm but only saw how to adjust throttle nothing about 'correct setting'

Ty!
 
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Well...... My engine shut off suddenly today and kinda made a rattling sound just before dying. Tried starting t but no luck checked the plugs and the pto side plug had no gap left and had a strike mark on it so I think it's a connecting rod:banghead: but good news is as it was rebuilt recently I'm still under warrantee but stuck on land for now:svengo:
 
Ok so the verdict is in. The dealer tells me that my pto piston disintergrateted du to water contaminated gas??? I went and looked at the damage on the piston and cylinder and did not see any 'steam clean' signs just small pieces of the piston came apart above the top ring and the cylinder was very lightly scratched. They cleaned the cylinder so idk if the oil film was still intact on it but i did see the piston that was un touched and it still had its oil film on it.

So i'm perplexed as they agreed to fix it on warrantee even though it was not covered. Either they feel bad for me or they fed me bull... Oh and i've always gased up at the same place on land and never had issues but i spoke with my friend who owns a pontoon boat with a 2 stroke 90hp johnson outboard and we bothe gased up at the same place on monday within hours of each other and he had issues with his engine bucking and had a hard time starting and keeping idle so there may infact be an issue with the gas.

Lastly i have a question, the dealer told me that we do not need to scrap the gas in my tank(its full atm) all we need to do is add some gasline to it to dry out the water i'm sceptical of this as idk how effective this will be or if it is safe to use on a 2 stroke???

Ty as always for your input!
 
I'm thinking they either do not know what happened or are not being honest. If it was a water issue, then you would for sure get rid of the fuel. That alone is a red flag for me. I'm guessing they found the issue and it is a coverable item and they are blowing smoke to make themselves sound like hero's...
 
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