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noise when engaging propeller on I/O drive

Well I guess I got good news and bad news Lou. I posted the video on a mercruiser forum and the guys there say the clicking noise is normal BUT they claim that even though I ran the engine without water for only 30 seconds that I most likely damaged the sea water pump impeller and I need to open up the lower end and replace it and maybe some seals. Now I've never had my boat in the ocean so I can't figure how any seals might a git in there. Guess there kinda like them damn kudos.

I put the boat in the water today and it ran fine but they are insisting it's a ticking time bomb. Sooo I guess I'll be pulling the boat back out of the water.... What sucks is I got the ear muffs for running the boat on the hose but didn't think I needed them for that short period.

I can't watch your video so I can't hear the sound you're describing but going into reverse or forward you shouldn't experience more than a few clunks if the shift cable is properly adjusted.

As far as the seawater impeller goes, it's always a good idea to change them every few years, but you must do this if engine temp is above normal.

It's actually very easy to change the seawater impeller, place the shifter in forward and the lower housing goes on and off like a breeze.

If you ran it long enough with no water the plastic impeller housing may have melted or might have lost it's shape, so get the kit that includes the housing too, it's not much more and good to have one around anyway.

When you pull off the lower unit, if you want to save your gear oil then shove a golf tee in the hole to keep the oil from draining out of the upper half, don't forget to remove the golf tee though before putting the lower unit on. And make sure the small o-ring is still there, otherwise gear oil will all leak out.

When installing the impeller, oil it with gear oil to make it easier and turn the vertical drive shaft clockwise as you push the impeller housing into place.

Once done, remember to refill the gear oil from the bottom drain plug. I use an impact driver to remove and install the plugs, everyone I know does this, so you're likely to need an impact driver.

A less then 1/2 hour job man, replacing the seawater impeller.
 
First of all, NEVER crank or start the motor without water muffs attached and water running, it will destroy the rubber water pump impeller!

If your engine runs hot now, this is why. 180* on the gauge is approaching too hot, keep a close eye on it.

As far as a repeating clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk and no(or delayed) engagement goes when going into gear (FWD or REV), most likely your shift cable linkage needs adjustment or the shift cable is binding(most often seen in saltwater use, rare in freshwater).

Sporstster, I've seen posts from guys that say they just routinely replace the impeller every couple of years. Is that normal? Should I plan to just go ahead and replace the impeller and seals even if the temperature holds at 160 the next couple rides? Just fyi, I'm never more than 3 miles from my dock.
 
Sporstster, I've seen posts from guys that say they just routinely replace the impeller every couple of years. Is that normal? Should I plan to just go ahead and replace the impeller and seals even if the temperature holds at 160 the next couple rides? Just fyi, I'm never more than 3 miles from my dock.

Don't forget, people get real upset when they go to jump in their boat and the damn thing leaves them high and dry so yes, I also recommend replacing them every two/three years for peace of mind (some people simply don't watch their temp gauges, either). Honestly though, they'll last longer than that, just watch your gauges like you should anyway. Heck, I ran my last impeller 10yrs before that sucker fell apart, LOL. Of course never cranked that thing dry either, and it doesn't take long at all, just a few seconds to rip the vanes off spinning dry kiss it goodby most of the time.

The proof is in the pudding though, if it's running 160* then it's still working fine.

Anyway, I'll just say if you work on your ski much you can definitely change an Alpha impeller, it's a piece of cake. I'd just get the pump kit with the impeller housing and keep that on hand then buy a spare impeller for the regular swap out. That way you can always have what you need on hand without having to hunt the stuff up at some inconvenient time. Changing that impeller is only mildly more complicated than changing the spark plugs and the engine oil, it's amazingly easy. Just remember to put the shifter fully in forward before you try slapping the bottom section back on.
 
Don't forget, people get real upset when they go to jump in their boat and the damn thing leaves them high and dry so yes, I also recommend replacing them every two/three years for peace of mind (some people simply don't watch their temp gauges, either). Honestly though, they'll last longer than that, just watch your gauges like you should anyway. Heck, I ran my last impeller 10yrs before that sucker fell apart, LOL. Of course never cranked that thing dry either, and it doesn't take long at all, just a few seconds to rip the vanes off spinning dry kiss it goodby most of the time.

The proof is in the pudding though, if it's running 160* then it's still working fine.

Anyway, I'll just say if you work on your ski much you can definitely change an Alpha impeller, it's a piece of cake. I'd just get the pump kit with the impeller housing and keep that on hand then buy a spare impeller for the regular swap out. That way you can always have what you need on hand without having to hunt the stuff up at some inconvenient time. Changing that impeller is only mildly more complicated than changing the spark plugs and the engine oil, it's amazingly easy. Just remember to put the shifter fully in forward before you try slapping the bottom section back on.

a guy on the merc forum said the alpha generation 2 has a metal impeller housing instead of plastic. so I'll pick upo the impeller and seals and put it on the todo list. Thanks!!
 
Sporstster, I've seen posts from guys that say they just routinely replace the impeller every couple of years. Is that normal? Should I plan to just go ahead and replace the impeller and seals even if the temperature holds at 160 the next couple rides? Just fyi, I'm never more than 3 miles from my dock.

This comes up a lot on a boating forum I'm on. As with everything there's no black and white answer. Some guys do it every 2-3 years and some guys go 20+ years. I'd say 4-5 years. If you have a working temp gauge you can stretch that to 6-7+.

My Uncle has been boating since birth (grew up on a island) and he says don't even worry about it until you see the temp gauge climbing.
 
another interesting thing about the noise when shifting is I was looking at the owners manual yesterday (go figure, who reads a manual) and it says to shift from neutral "firmly and quickly" which is NOT how I have been doing it, I always moved the shifter very slowly which may be why I'm getting the noise?
 
Yep he's correct, the Alpha gen-2 impeller housing is stainless, was thinking of the Alpha 1 That's the big impeller too then, it's a big ol' thing.

So yeah, you just need the impeller and the seals/gaskets
 
another interesting thing about the noise when shifting is I was looking at the owners manual yesterday (go figure, who reads a manual) and it says to shift from neutral "firmly and quickly" which is NOT how I have been doing it, I always moved the shifter very slowly which may be why I'm getting the noise?

Yes, firmly and quickly, just a few clunks. If you push the shifter slowly enough then you can make it go clunk all you want, don't do that. You want the dogs to engage quickly so they don't get beat up.
 
This comes up a lot on a boating forum I'm on. As with everything there's no black and white answer. Some guys do it every 2-3 years and some guys go 20+ years. I'd say 4-5 years. If you have a working temp gauge you can stretch that to 6-7+.

My Uncle has been boating since birth (grew up on a island) and he says don't even worry about it until you see the temp gauge climbing.

That's the right way to explain it, some people don't listen to their engine or watch the gauges though so I have to stick with the 2~3 year recommendation (always CYA).

And there are some cheaply made impellers out there now too I suppose like most things. The Sierra and of course OEM impellers are the durable ones.

Then we get into the conversation about how winterizing by pumping RV propylene glycol antifreeze through causes the rubber compounds to swell... Sheesh, gimme a break oh please! :)
 
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John you will also need the outdrive gasket set. Your Mercury Marine dealer should have it.

http://www.iboats.com/Outdrive-Gask...9791531--session_id.093257655--view_id.187586

[MENTION=65307]Sportster-2001-951C-Stock[/MENTION], when you get a chance would you take a look at my thread in this same section.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?70808-Correct-propeller-for-a-Mercruiser

Thanks,

Lou

There's no need to remove the entire drive if you just want to replace the impeller just split the lower half while it's hanging on the transom, pulling the bottom housing is much easier than the whole drive. Shoot a couple pumps of grease in the gimbal bearing and as long as it' not grinding then it hasn't had water in it.

When you order parts for these you need to make sure you've got the serial number off the sterndrive, and for motor parts there's a serial number on the bellhousing flange you'll need as well.
 
John you will also need the outdrive gasket set. Your Mercury Marine dealer should have it.

http://www.iboats.com/Outdrive-Gask...9791531--session_id.093257655--view_id.187586

@Sportster-2001-951C-Stock, when you get a chance would you take a look at my thread in this same section.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?70808-Correct-propeller-for-a-Mercruiser

Thanks,

Lou

thanks Lou. btw Sheridan's bus was right on time. She spent the afternoon modeling the new bikinis for me that she bought for the trip.
 
There's no need to remove the entire drive if you just want to replace the impeller just split the lower half while it's hanging on the transom, pulling the bottom housing is much easier than the whole drive. Shoot a couple pumps of grease in the gimbal bearing and as long as it' not grinding then it hasn't had water in it.

When you order parts for these you need to make sure you've got the serial number off the sterndrive, and for motor parts there's a serial number on the bellhousing flange you'll need as well.

Well, that's something else I have leaned, I'll keep that in mind for next time. BTW, do you know any good Mercruiser forums?

Lou
 
There's no need to remove the entire drive if you just want to replace the impeller just split the lower half while it's hanging on the transom, pulling the bottom housing is much easier than the whole drive. Shoot a couple pumps of grease in the gimbal bearing and as long as it' not grinding then it hasn't had water in it.

When you order parts for these you need to make sure you've got the serial number off the sterndrive, and for motor parts there's a serial number on the bellhousing flange you'll need as well.

so you are saying the outdrive gasket kit is not needed if just removing the lower unit, correct?
 
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