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Dusthawk

Dusthawk

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Okay, I am frustrated. I admit to not being a good diagnostician but this is such a simple engine, I can't imagine what I am doing wrong.

I have fresh fuel, fresh oil, and a good battery. I have fuel flow, oil flow and good spark. The Doo still will not start. I double checked flow from the fuel tank and it flows freely. Both filters, oil and gas, are new. I ever tried a tiny spritz of starting fluid, and still no fire.

I was told they had it running last spring before it got put in storage. No other info is available. I don't know what else it could be.

Any Ideas? I read through the manual for hours and still no luck.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
are you sure you are getting fuel, pull the plugs and make sure they arnt wet if they are put the plugs on the grounding tabs and turn the engine ove ra couple of time to clear the cylinders, put he plugs back in and see if it fires, are you using the choke, you will need to pull it all the way out, once it coughs 1/2-3/4 choke and once you get it running keep the rpms up and fether the choke till its warmed up a bit, make sure you have the right spark plug gap
 
I have confirmed I am getting fuel to the cylinders, and I am using a primer, not a choke. Even when I used the starting fluid, it wouldn't even try to start. I am getting over 130 PSI per for compression.
 
sounds like engine may be out of time. spark plugs fireing at wrong time. if it was running good went it was put away. the only way i could see this to be likely is a bad electrical componant. but if you were not sure if it was running i would check maybe flywheel key. i have repaired thousands of engines but not pwc so i am no pro. someone will help you i am sure. good luck
 
Good place to start!

I believe Robins advice is a good place to start. If you've checked everything you say you've checked, then it does seem likely that your missing on the order of firing.
Has anyone messed with your rotary plate that you know of?
 
could it be flooded ??? crank case full of fuel??? if it was running i would think it should start again even if it ran bad or for a few seconds. have you tried to pull plugs ground plug wires wide open throtal spin engine over to clear out any gas in engine thin retry
 
All of the allen bolts don't look to have been tampered with, so I doubt the rotary plate could be compromised. Will look into that.

The engine is not flooded, I made sure to clear it after I tried the starting fluid and it didn't work. The fuel lines were dry, and the fuel selector was in the off position when I took possesion of the Doo.

Is there a reed plate, or valve, that could be bad? If so, it looks like I'll need to pull out the entire engone to get into it.
 
Jeff, don't use starting fliuid. it has no lubrication in it at all. It will cause more problems than it is worth. If you must...use wd-40 it is lubricated and won't cause the engine to seize! I will look into the manual and see what I can find out for you in the morning. I am not on my computer now and I have no manuals at my disposal at this time.
Karl
 
Thanks Karl. When I first started working on it, I sprayed WD-40 into the combustion chambers to help lube up the pistons. I have had great results when I have rebuilt 2 stroke engines by doing that, I doubt that the WD-40 disippated in so short a time so I am confidant that it was protected from undo wear.

The good news is that it cranks like a son of a gun, a very strong battery and starter. If I can just get it started, I know it's gonna be an AWESOME Ski!!!! I am going to have so much fun on it, I'll be beside myself:hurray::willy_nilly:
 
Plugs are triple checked and gapped correctly. No pop, not even trying, but there is a good strong spark, my thunb could tell you better, lol.
 
I'll look into the timing, but another question has popped up. Is the integral fuel pump on the 91 and later carbs essentially the same as the stand alone pump on the pre-91's? My 90 had a stand alone, disconnected, mounted on the inner hull, and a 91 and later carb on it. I disassembled the stand alone and it looks like it was recently rebuilt, all the gaskets and films are in perfect condition to my eye. I looked on Ebay but couldn't find a fuel pump rebuild kit like I had seen earlier. If my fuel pump isn't putting out much fuel, that could be the problem. If I can rebuild it with the stand alone I have, it might work.
 
fuel pump?

You can do this if you like but your main point now is that your not getting the engine to hit a lick, or even attempt to fire when you've done all that you've said you've done.
If you've had wet plugs and you know you have spark, then you should have at least heard a pop in the engine. I don't think it has anything to do with fuel. It seems like what Robin said about the timing. Maybe the shaft key sheared on you. The rotary must be o.k. because you'd notice if it weren't. The plate would be partial open on the compression stroke and pop air/fuel out the spark arrestor......
Look at timing..........there's something amiss in the aspect of coordinating the ignition to the fuel during compression.
 
Well, I was wrong. I thought fuel was getting to the combustion chamber but apparently it isn't. I did like the manual said and sprayed WD-40 through the flame arrestor while cranking but it still didn't start. I then pulled the plugs and they were dry as a bone.
 
Pull the plugs and spray wd-40 directly into the plug holes. Do a quick count to 3 while spraying.That will give you enough to fire the engine or at least it will kick. Don't hole the starter on too long as it will overheat and do damage. Let it cool down before you keep cranking the starter over and over. Did you check the timing or the woodruff key on the flywheel? Keep us posted.
Karl
 
ok you say the plugs are dry as a bone. now you need to get more fuell to the engine prime the crap out of it and see what happens flood it out if you have to. it want hurt nothing. make sure throtal is closed just do what ever you have to do to get combustion chambers wet. if it still does not start then dry out cylinders and retry not useing the primer as much. oh yes be carefull now that you have alot of fuel you may have a greater chance of a fire. good luck and keep fire extigusher close.
 
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If after you put fuel down the sparkplug holes and you are sure you have good spark and compression than your timeing is fireing on the exhust stroke. Even if the timeing was out by a little you would get a backfire make sure the wires are not crossed then like said before check your keyway it has to be sheared off.Or out 180 degrees.
 
I will try that next, about adding fuel to the WD-40 in the cyl's. If that won't work, I will have to pull the engine out to work on it, I don't have enough room to work in there. I am looking for an engine gasket kit in this eventuality. My local shop wants too much for a gasket kit so I will probably get one from Ebay. Any parts I might need will have to come from the dealer though.

So much for being on the water before March.
 
If compression is good, and your getting fuel, getting spark...it must be timing related. Did you say it was getting fuel but just not firing? No backfire or anything? You won't be able to do any checking of the big 3 if you pull the engine, but just diagnoses.
Karl
 
I have spark, but no fuel getting to the chamber. That leads me to believe that the rotor has a problem, it has been too windy to do anything on it the last few days and my frustration level is way up on it. I gave it a good blast through the spark plug holed with WD-40 but no pop, will add fuel next time I work on it. If I need to tear into the side of the engine for the rotor, I will have to pull it.
 
Nows a good time to get it running!

If it doesn't fire on wd-40, fuel won't make any difference. I would take a breath and read the manual if you haven't already, set up a game plan to get it running. Don't let it get you down. Remember that if you have to pull it apart it will be a great learning experience. If you get in a jam, you know you can count on the membership here to help you get through it. It is still not the best weather yet so this is a good time to do the repair now than during the spring and summer when it's time to go riding.
:cheers:
Karl
 
Pull it?

You shouldn't have to pull the motor to get to the rotary plate. After you remove the flame arrestor and carbs, you'd be surprised how much room you will come up with.
I think to begine with, I'd only remove the PTO carb so that I could look through the intake to see if the rotary valve was turning.
 
Making room!

Seadoosnipe is right. Making room to work on your engine is easy if you take a few of the external parts off. I'm 6'2" and 225 pounds and can get into my XP with minimal effort. I do use a mirror a lot to see things that are down toward the bottom, like the starter.
 
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