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No Spark on one engine

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yelah

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Hello, I would like to have a discussion with the greats on here about my problem to help me work through it. I have a No spark issue on one of my engines. I have tested and checked everything. i swaped ignition boxes and still the same condition (no spark on just one engine). I checked output AC Voltage on both engines. the one with no spark was 2.7v and the engine with spark has 33.5v. I thought i needed a stator assembly so i put one in. I still have no spark and im $55 poorer. I got a used unit and installed it. It has 3.2v of output and all my grounds read 0.0-0.2 ohms. any suggestions? Please Help!!!! :) thanks
 
Could be a bad ignition coil. Disconnect the wire on the primary side
of the ignition coil. Check the resistance between the terminals 1 and 2 with your meter and then between terminals 2 and 3. The resistance should be 0.41 +- 0.05
 
Try cutting the wire going to the spark plugs about 1/4 inch and re-install the spark plug cap again. It might be corroded.
It happens alot.

Karl
 
nswillin, not sure what wires you are talking about, but i did swap the coils on the 2 engines and i get the same result (no spark on right engine and spark on left engine.) That would indicate that all the coil boxes are ok, right?

Karl, I tried that, cut the wires back 1/4 in and still didn't get any spark on right engine. I swaped the ignition boxes again and found the same result.


Any other ideas?
The resistance for the stator (ignition) was 59 ohms my spec i have is 40-74ohms. is that correct?
 
I was thinking about that. Is there a way to clean all the corosion out of the stator? Anyone have a good stator for sale?
 
I'd pull it apart and look at it first. It just might need a cleaning. Something might be corroded to cause a erratic spark condition.

Karl
 
you said in previous post, that you installed a used stator, so...wouldn't you have noticed the corrosion/rust built inside the housing?
 
well, i had the housing cleaned/shotpeened and painted. is there a spot i need to check that isnt supose to have paint on it?
 
what up man...lets back the truck up real quick..:)
Did you/didnt you install new/used stator. Reason ask'n, if you did, then almost impossible, NOT to see any rust around flywheel, housing(inside), built on crank...etc. Dude, just try'n to figure it out, you know..you had mentioned, think'n corrosion, but installed stator assy, just aint adding up...maybe pinched 1 or more wires reinstall'n stator, its possible, bro.
 
haha, ok i'll explain a little better. this is a new/rebuilt engine, im using my old flywheel and stator. i didn't see any corrosion, there isn't any on the crank. i saw 1 screw had corrosion on it but all the grounds tested out good so i didn't mess with it. i tested the output voltage from the stator and i got 2.5v and my other engine gets 33.4v output voltage so i think its a stator problem. i just want to be sure thats what it is. Its funny cause i have 2 bad stators now. I should have just bought a new one and not messed with used parts.
 
quote..I should have just bought a new one and not messed with used parts

Should've bought my coils, when askn about them...:rofl:

no way, stud, 2 stators...went thru same thing w/relays, ended up being bad cable(terminal) at starter. when flywheel out, you inspect the magnets. And for testing "v", that stuff dont register to me, so, when you mentioned it, was that, with try'n to kick motor over, or is there another way.:stupid:
 
yeah, i checked the magnets in the flywheel and they seem to be ok. I think i'll try swaping the flywheels and see what happens then. yeah i checked the voltage while i was cranking it.
 
dont know if has any affect, while at starting, but, disconnect the rectifier, possible, its contributing to bad spark?
 
May i suggest something simple
The connector that wires the pickup coil to the control box has pins in it , due the angle that it is in when the motor is in the boat , you cannot see the pins when in place .
It is possible that the pins can become dislodged within the connector , then when the two pieces are connected you cannot tell that it is not actually making contact
This can happen at either side of the connector . This could explain why both pickup coils are doing the same thing .
Just an area to check
 
717 two types of ignition configurations...

The 717 uses the capacitor discharge ignition system (CDI) using 4 magnets to generate electricity, which sends it to either the ignition coil or the MPEM, where it controls and distributes that electricity before going to the ignition coil.
In the first set-up the ignition coil performs two functions. It has an integrated CDI ignition module which controls the spark. Every half revolution, the 4 magnets reach a critical point where the polarity of the electrical current changes, flowing from the generating coil. At the right time, the CDI module detects this change and sends a signal to the primary winding of the ignition coil while the secondary winding steps up the voltage current for both spark plugs.
In the second set-up, the ignition coil steps up the voltage input from the MPEM instead of the CDI module to a high voltage current to both spark plugs.
So, depending on which type CDI setup you have, you may have a conflict on your secondary winding….
I have pulled up the parts microfiche and it’s strange, all these parts have the same number. So the change must only be between the mpem and the CDI wiring.
From what your describing, it does sound like your problem is in your secondary coil winding. You state you have low voltage, so stepping up the voltage seems to be the problem……
 
Thanks so much for the replys. I just want to say that I have low voltage readings at the wiring from the generation coil (stator). It reads 2.5v or so. My other engine reads 33.5v or so and that engine has spark. So if im correct, the engine generates its own primary voltage and regulates it. Im still having problems getting spark on my right engine. Has anyone seen a bad flywheel before, if so what do i look for? Im going to swap flywheels and see if i get spark. if i don't then im just going to order a new generation coil assembly (stator). what do you think?

p.s. thanks for the insite on how the system works. it will be helpful while diagnosing. :)
 
yelah said:
well, i had the housing cleaned/shotpeened and painted. is there a spot i need to check that isnt supose to have paint on it?
Click to expand...

That's your problem right there. When you had the cases painted, you essentially insulated the stator from it's gound. Take that stator out, removed the paint from underneath the stator plate and put it back together. Should be good to go then.
 
Alright, its fixed. this is what i did.
ohmed out the ground connections.(0.1ohm)-looks ok to me so...
Took apart the cover, stator, flywheel, etc... cleaned ground contact (for the heck of it)
put new stator i ordered in and put everything back together and tested and i got spark (thank god).
So checked voltage out of the stator (34Vac).
Then cause im weird, i put the old 2 stators back in to retest them.
Both stators tested bad. only producing 2.4Vac each. My new (3rd) stator was the one that works great. Sorry if this is confusing, but i would like to thank everyone on here for all the help and ideas. THANKS!
I'll be breaking-in the engines next weekend when i have a chance to fill this pig with fuel. i'll keep you updated. thanks again to everyone.:)
 
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