Newb with a random question.

[Boosthappy]

I just acquired a 96 xp800 and i have been tinkering with it lately trying to fix a few small issues. I have recently pulled the carbs off to clean and re jet them and i found a clear tube with some sort of oil in it going from the lower side of the block just under the rotary valve around the front of the engine and back in some where i cant see it. I have searched the forum and cant find anything about this mod. The bike has a bunch of other mods also. oil injection deleted, primer install, fuel shut off bypassed, and new rubber lines. Here is a pic of the hose.

 

[falklandsx]

Your ski is set up for pre-mix. Normally those tubes connect to the oil tank and lubricate the RV shaft. If you are going to stay on pre-mix, drain the old oil out and refill prior to running the ski.

Good luck!

 

[kicker]

That is your rotary gear lube. Even when disconnecting the oil injection, the rotary shaft still requires a bath in oil. That line will loop around to the same area on the other side of the engine. The oil flows from that side to the RV side and just keeps recirculating. You need to check that loop once in a while to be sure that there is always oil in there.

 

[Boosthappy]

Ok thank you guys for the quick info. I build and race rotary powered cars, I pre mix my cars with Castor927 synthetic 2 stroke oil. I was wondering if anyone here ran it in there rotax engines.

 

[falklandsx]

Never have, but I hear it's good stuff. I run seadoo mineral oil in 587 & 717 stock skis, and seadoo synthetic in 787s. What type of cars do you race - shifter karts?

 

[Seadoobuddy]

I wouldn't use it. Use one that's made for a PWC with the API-TC rating.

here is a write up by Dr Honda about oil for Seadoos......

Oil advice by Dr. Honda Aug. 39, 2013

Here's the deal... a Good TC-w3 oil is not an instant death to a seadoo engine. So, it's hard to judge with saying... "It seems to be running well." As sportster said... you need the metal salts, and Azo Complexes to act as an extreme pressure lubricant. TC-w3 don't have them, because it's an oil that is specifically meant to be environmentally friendly with the fish.

With that said... the 951 engine may only run 250 hrs... if run on the proper oil. On a TC-w3 it may only run 150 total.

2-stroke oils are not the same as automotive oils. There are A LOT of classes of oils... and they are not all the same. the API-TC or JASO-FC are some of the best protecting 2-stroke oils made. A TC-w3 CAN NOT even come close to the lube and protection qualities. Because of the difference in the additives... there can NEVER be a dual spec oil. PERIOD.
So... trying to save a few $$$ on oil, can cost you a $1000 engine.

You are fine. But, in every seadoo... right by the oil fill neck... there is a stickers saying..."Use API-TC. Never use TC-w3." So honestly, there should never be a debate on this.

The problem arises when guys say... "I've been using XXXX brand TC-w3 oil, and it's fine." But, they fail to say, for how long, or in what engine. To be very honest... in the old engines... it will work for a long time. (The ones that only make 60 hp) But, from the 657x engine and higher... there is a marked life depreciation.

Oh... and the other problem is... the additives packs don't mix !!! The story of... "Do not mix 2-stoke oils" is not just an old wives tale. It's not as bad as it was long ago... but there is still a real issue were mixing the oils (because you just needed oil one day, and you bought something that the gas station had) can lead to the oils "Gel'ing". When that happens, the system plugs up, and your engine get's roasted. This is also why the oil injection got a bad wrap. People would be careless (and cheap) with the oils, and when the system plugged from user error... they would say the pump sucks.


Here's a cut open filter from someone who blamed the oil injection failing, for the loss of the engine. I had to point out, that the pump didn't fail. It was his fault for killing the engine. (by mixing oils) So... if you are changing brands... clean out the tank !!!!!


OK pic didn't copy.... but it's all plugged up with solidified oil.

 

[kicker]

The Caster oil (Bean oil) burns very dirty, it will plug the rave valves in no time flat, and soon after that the top end will have excessive carbon and varnish deposits. Caster doesn't mix well with gas nevermind with other oil. It was good in the day, it would stick to hot spots in the engine and clings to those hot surfaces much better than petroleum type oils. But now with the new synthetics API-TC oils there is no comparison.

 

[Boosthappy]

Ok ill go buy some new oil. any brand you guys are partial to?

 

[kicker]

I use XPS II full synthetic (yellow bottle) Some guys use quicksilver API-TC full synthetic, and Amsoil Interceptor full synthetic. They are all acceptable oils that will work.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

yip, any of the 3 above oils are fine, just depends on if a dealer/walmart are nearby for the first two, or amsoil.com for the 3rd. (do the $10 preferred customer trial and save $25 on a case)

re: the RV loop, do yourself a favor and go to advanced/autozone, get yourself a t-flush fitting for 99cents behind the counter, add that to the loop near the center so you can top off the oil every now and then if it gets low, if your crank seals don't leak then it won't be required often, but if they do then you could/should top it off every other ride or so.

 

[Boosthappy]

That is a great idea. The oil is a little low now so i hope it hasn't hurt anything. i can't wait to go hit the waves on this thing. I also got my GF a 94 yamaha wave raider 700. it has a few decent mods and should be a fun ride along partner. How do you guys go about meeting up for rides? I'm in the Houston Texas area and wanted to make some new friends.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I love the smell of bean oil myself but don't use that stuff in this motor, it will coke up the ring lands and probably cause the RAVES to stick more than you will be willing to accept.

API-TC must have the low-ash package, there are some oils being marketed out there as API-TC/TCW-3/4 that don't have the ash package, so buyer beware!

 

[Spimothy Leary]

That is a great idea. The oil is a little low now so i hope it hasn't hurt anything. i can't wait to go hit the waves on this thing. I also got my GF a 94 yamaha wave raider 700. it has a few decent mods and should be a fun ride along partner. How do you guys go about meeting up for rides? I'm in the Houston Texas area and wanted to make some new friends.

You will find ride groups in the weirdest places, Craigslist, facebook, or just by introducing yourself to fellow rider's at the ramp.

You can also post on various forums like this one, pwctoday, and greenhulk in the regional sections to find guys, and usually they post up in response but not right away, the regional forums don't get regular visitors.

I have actually stopped on the water on several occasions when I saw a ski or a small group and introduced myself, and collected a phone number or two. I have like 9 guys in my "text loop" that I inform about our weekly rides every Friday for Sunday's ride but i'll be honest, its the same 3 of us that show up every week almost without fail, the rest are lucky to make it out every 4th or 5th ride, but they have work/family pressures. We had one guy that showed up 30 minutes late all the time so we got pissed and would just leave and go for the ride, and we'd bump into him an hour later on the water, he got a little b1tchy about us leaving the last time in January so we just stopped calling him. (for me 10:30 means your in the water at 10:30 with engine running, not at subway 5 miles down the road getting an egg sammich wiping the eye boogers off your face)

re: the T-flush fitting, that worked best for me, but my crank seals leaked very very little, so I maybe had to add an oz every 3rd or 4th ride but checked it often. I just use a little dispenser squeeze bottle with a small spout to avoid spillage, (the funnel business was a complete failure, you need 3 hands)

my buddy, who had leaky seals went through a lot more so he went to summit racing and ordered a brake line reservoir for a motorcycle and zip tied it up, and he would add an oz or two every ride so he felt more comfortable with a 4oz cushion. Looked kind of like this, but you get the idea, anything with the right sized nipple will do the trick.

 

[Boosthappy]

I think i still have a spare clutch reservoir from a previous build, Even if the seals aren't leaking it would be nice to have a reservoir for the lube. Ill snap some pics of the ski soon and the mods it has and the ones i'm doing. Thank you guys for the information.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

I think i still have a spare clutch reservoir from a previous build, Even if the seals aren't leaking it would be nice to have a reservoir for the lube. Ill snap some pics of the ski soon and the mods it has and the ones i'm doing. Thank you guys for the information.

ya, that will do the trick, the advantage to the reservior is the fact that you can check your level at a glance... and its an easy fill, the lines are generally very cloudy so you have to lift the tube and check it with a flashlight to see how much is in there. also eliminate the "out of sight out out of mind" problem where you forget to check it.