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New to this forums, so hello from this here noob!

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If the leading edges of the impeller are square/flat then it's most likely the stock impeller. If the leading edges are rounded/tear-drop then it's not the original/OEM impeller. Typically the markings on the impeller cannot be seen unless the impeller is removed.
 
It appears to have the stock impellar. Well I had her on the water yesterday and had my first issue with the boat, she wouldn't get out of the water and there was three of us and all our gear. It hasn't ever done this. Before with this much weight it would pull and plane out in at the most 5 to 6 seconds and top out around 48mph(GPS) [speedo would say around 52-54] depending on water and wind conditions. Now it just revs and bounces the rev limiter, I even tried to plane her out by slowly applying the throttle and used the VTC for all it's worth, she just wouldn't get up. Little upset right now seeing we are all supposed to go out in a week for fathers day weekend. It's like she lost all her thrust, the only way we could plane it was to follow the current and put someone in the sun seat and it took forever.
 
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I haven't experienced it myself, but what you describe sounds just like how the experts on here describe cavitation issues.
Most common causes seem to be air getting sucked through the carbon seal or bellows on the drive shaft or worn wear ring.
Searching for "cavitation" or "wear ring" should lead you to information from folks more experienced than me.
Good luck.
 
Ok, well I'm hoping I'm not having a cavitation problem, but ran into something interesting. So where's what I did my Sunday evening...

~Inspected the Impeller, no nicks or bends. It's not a swirl impeller, appears to be the stock.
~Wear ring has no heavy gouges or defects, actually looks really good.
~Checked the carbon ring but noticed it was in the back notch closest to the transom. Pulled back on the boot and there is a ton of tension against it. So I believe the boot is ok.
~Ride shoe looks like it has been resealed previously, black silicone everywhere.

BUT I noticed my jet pump was level when my VTS lever was pulled the whole way back.... When pushed forward it was angle way up, pulled back it wouldn't go any more down than level..... So I'm thinking this is why I needed to put someone on the front of boat to plane out, even one of my passengers was saying I was throwing a roost up in the air and that's when the boat was feeling lazy and didn't want to plane out. I tried doing the VTS adjustment at the transom but that fitting is seized, so I took apart the controls up front, found that the auto centering cable came loose and so did the VTS cable itself from the VTS lever, someone must of had this apart before and it's obviously not adjusted properly. Any tips on this would be great, service manual isn't very detailed for VTS adjustment. I have it some what working, but it will still angle up more than it will angle down, better than just stopping at a level position.
 
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I can only guess, but if the cable had come off of the VTS lever then possibly the nozzle was free to move and would angle upward under thrust?

Sorry I can't help with VTS adjustment. On my Challenger with the VTS lever in the neutral/middle position the nozzle was just slightly upward. I never adjusted it because it was very close to level with the lever in the neutral/middle position and I assumed this to be correct (made sense so I left it alone). I didn't experience much of a difference with the VTS adjusted downward when attempting to get the boat on plane, but if the VTS were in an upward position I think it would make a bigger impact and make the boat harder to plane with a load onboard.

Hopefully getting the VTS linkage connected and adjusted will solve your issue. Good luck with it.

BTW...due to the layout of the Challenger, all the weight in the back of the boat, I never filled the 27 gallon gas tank. The boat, in my opinion, was pretty good on fuel and I couldn't see me ever coming close to needing that much fuel in the boat for a day on the water. So if you trailer the boat and pass by a gas station on your way to the water, I would recommend keeping just a bit more fuel than what you'll need for the day...don't short yourself, but don't over do it either...weight capacity on these boats doesn't leave much room for extras...just my two-cents.
 
I can only guess, but if the cable had come off of the VTS lever then possibly the nozzle was free to move and would angle upward under thrust?

Sorry I can't help with VTS adjustment. On my Challenger with the VTS lever in the neutral/middle position the nozzle was just slightly upward. I never adjusted it because it was very close to level with the lever in the neutral/middle position and I assumed this to be correct (made sense so I left it alone). I didn't experience much of a difference with the VTS adjusted downward when attempting to get the boat on plane, but if the VTS were in an upward position I think it would make a bigger impact and make the boat harder to plane with a load onboard.

Hopefully getting the VTS linkage connected and adjusted will solve your issue. Good luck with it.

BTW...due to the layout of the Challenger, all the weight in the back of the boat, I never filled the 27 gallon gas tank. The boat, in my opinion, was pretty good on fuel and I couldn't see me ever coming close to needing that much fuel in the boat for a day on the water. So if you trailer the boat and pass by a gas station on your way to the water, I would recommend keeping just a bit more fuel than what you'll need for the day...don't short yourself, but don't over do it either...weight capacity on these boats doesn't leave much room for extras...just my two-cents.

I'm hoping this was my issue, to be more specific, the only way we could plane out was with the VTS pulled back and someone in the sun seat, I know bad idea but it was the only way. But after she planed out I was still able to top out around 45, it was just getting out of the water that was frustrating. There was three of us and all our gear (around 500lbs.) If the lever was forward it would bounce the limiter and wouldn't plane no matter how slow I applied throttle, this is when someone said I was roosting in the air and my bow was way out of the water. When I took apart the controls the VTS cable was being held on by hopes and dreams, bolt was still there but the nut backed off so there was a ton of play.

But yes I feel the same about the weight capacity. This weekend we are going out except there's going to be four of us and we will be right at the weight limit, I wasn't planning on topping the tank to try and save some weight.
 
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Had her out saturday! 4 of us and right at the weight limit, she would still plane out and get us around the 45mph mark. Vts works great now. Everyones having a blast then 4 hrs into our day we had a scare. Crusing along and she randomly shut down, it's not dess post or key related. The boat would fire right back up, but anything past half throttle for more than a minute she would just shut off. My passengers started getting concerned about making it back to the docks. No beep warnings, cooling system was pushing out a steady stream, would start and idle but if you attempted to plane out the engine would just shut down. So I put it on reserve, still wouldn't let me throttle up. Had to idle our way the whole way back. Tank was full of fresh 93 octane, new plugs, all new exhaust gaskets, fresh battery, dess post and lanyard, so I'm counting all that out. I don't believe it is the fuel switch becuase she reacted the same even on reserve. Is there any ideas on where to start diagnosing this problem?
 
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It could still be fuel switch if,,, there is something stuck on the outlet side.

Just making a point is all. No mater where you have it switched to, the fuel travels and comes from the same location in regards to the switch.
 
I have not touched the carbs since I've owned the boat. Yes I'm running fresh BR8ES plugs. With my work schedule I don't have the time to get everything done to the boat I would like to do on my own. SO, It's going to Don's Seadoo in Halem, Pa for the following....

1.) Rebuild the Pump
2.) Replace carbon seal and boot
3.) Replace Impeller
4.) Re-seal the ride shoe
5.) Clean the carbs

Now I talked to Jason (incase anyone is familiar with this business) he quoted me around $700 to $800 in JUST the labor for what's listed above. I can't take the boat down yet because I am waiting for the Skat Trak 17/22 Impeller from Atlantic Jet Sports to arrive since I'm supplying that. But this weekend I am replacing the filters (oil/fuel) and also the fuel switch just to get that out of the way. Hoping to get this thing back and on the water before summer is mostly over!
 
Well all my parts showed up to rebuild the pump as well as my Skat Trak Impeller.

I had a little free time so I replaced the fuel switch, fuel filter, all the fuel lines and the oil injection filter.
Also replaced the chimsy 300lbs winch on my trailer with a 1400lbs that has heavier framing. But the boat is scheduled this Monday to go get the ride shoe resealed, new carbon seal and boot, rebuilt pump with impeller and they are going to go over my carbs. Wish I had the time to do it myself, I am really particular with things but this season has me slammed with work and side jobs. I was told a one week turn around till I get her back.
 

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this is a little off the track, but they all expect stuff like this from griz, do you have any pics, (im sure you do) of some deer in your yard ???? looks like property we had when we grew up in pa. well, welcome to seadooforums, and im sure everyone would like to see some deer pics, along with the pics of your boat, -- (which is nice) :thumbsup:
 
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