New ski missing parts

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A couple of suggestions and questions:

1. Do yourself a favor and leave the oil injection system on the ski, it's very easy to maintain, a new filter every couple of years and new 3/32" tygon injector line, and use API-TC synthetic injector oil is usually all that is required. If you remove the oil injection you'll us twice as much oil, the ski will smoke, you'll be fouling spark plugs, there is really no good reason to remove it.

2. Does your ski still have grey tempo fuel lines?

Lou
 
Will leave the injection system in place but will also run premix for the first tank just to ensure that im getting oil as i have no idea if the injection pump is any good, and i do have the stock gray lines they are coming off as soon as i fire it up and verify that it will in fact run.
 
i agree with the comments on oil inj, as long as you KNOW for sure its working. you'll probably know right away since if your doubling up, it will probably smoke like a mother ! (not to mention if crank seals are leaking, you'll scare your neighbors, they will think your garage is on fire)

but 2x check to be sure its working, and again, they are generally considered very reliable.

I ran premix from day one, but I was an old school yamaha rider so I was very comfortable premixing, and didn't think twice about it, and honestly even with all my riding, I never fouled a set of plugs. (even on my present yami, which I premix very thick at 32-1, i'm still on my original set of plugs and i've put almost 70 hours on the ski)

would I premix my next seadoo ? you betcha.... i don't care about the smoke, its behind me... and I prefer to burn an extra $50 in oil every 6 months to a year over the cost of an engine, but that's just me, and my personal preference. (and I prefer amsoil just to throw that out, check out the dealer trial for $10 and have it shipped right to your door)

re: tempo, they must go, and if it run's during your "test" but run's poorly, they might be the cause, even yanking one line and looking for green goo will tell you immediately if your looking at some bad lines, but even if they look clean, if you plan on holding onto the ski, they must go.
 
I think I'll premix, sounds safer, where is the amsoil deal your talking about and I purged all those grey lines back into the fuel tank with wd40 and compressed air

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Yep its all me....lol I can help you with any parts needed for your project.

I also have new oil filters and tygon oil inj line in stock.
 
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I can personally vouch for Tonka, when I was flipping regular, I was calling him ALL the time, with 100% positive results !

Re: Oil... go to...

amsoil.com

click "save 25%"

click "preferred customer"

click $10 6 month trial.

order product.

wait for UPS to knock on the door, shipping is like jimmy john's, so fast you'll freak !

i've been a preferred amsoil member for at least going on 4 years now.

I order it for a few buddies too, 2 stroke, 4 stroke, etc...
 
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Ok guys, how can I test my mpem? I've got my electrical all hooked up, minus the ignition coil, and a fresh battery at +12v, the small wire on the rear box is grounded, I think my key may be bad but I'm not sure at all, it's doing absolutely nothing

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is the coil box attached to the harness, just no coil inside? The MPEM gets its power through there. You can test the power going to the MPEM, and also check the fuses in the MPEM.
 
No coil, everything else is hooked up, all my fuses are good, I checked and double checked them

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Hit the start button a few times with the key off the post; the gauges should pop up....push it 5 times it should short then long beep.

If it doesnt..


Check that the small red wires in the rear ebox are on the same side of the solenoid as the battery. Also nothing will happen if your ground wires are unhooked or the connector on the front of the motor is plugged in.
 
So the wiring going to the stator cover shouldn't be plugged in?

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Lol yes... That didn't make sense. Yes it needs to be plugged in

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Test voltage between the Red w/blue stripe wire and black wire at the mpem for 12V. You will at least know it is getting power.
 
K guys will do all this when I get home from work, Minnetonka I'm still waiting on money for those parts and I'll pm you

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[MENTION=69521]soccerdad[/MENTION] thanks Ive got a good volt meter and I'm all about checking stuff

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[MENTION=69521]soccerdad[/MENTION] I can't find the Red w/blue and black wire at my mpem know where I can find a few good wiring diagrams?

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Also I turned it over by jumping the solenoid in the rear box, sounded good,

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Ok I've got a red/blue wire running from my rear box to the mpem that's got +12v. What's a way to test my key and possibly the start stop button? I'm still getting absolutely nothing with the battery hooked up

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Well the start stop should just be a switch so an ohm meter or powered test light across the two terminals from it should test that. Then read post 36 above. It may tell you what you do not want to know.
 
All the Red wires in the rear box are on the positive side of the solenoid, I've even found a really good diagram that I've printed out and I'm starting to map everything out, uploadfromtaptalk1396448340316.jpg

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Ok guys I can't figure out where the Red ring terminal they're talking about is, I've got the testing parameters but I dint know where to pull the leads from the Red ring and black ring terminals
73.jpg

74.jpg


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Made my maiden voyage today, New to me mpem, rave valves, coil, and a few other little details and she's riding like a champ. My first Seadoo, I was more than a little surprised in the power in these things, shout out the Jose at jet thrust for the hook up, two keys programmed for free. Now to do the rest of the little things, anybody know how many feet of fuel line I need to replace all the gray bullshit?

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