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New member with 08 Speedster 150 scic.

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kwiktsi

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Hello guys (and gals?), I just picked up a Speedster 150 scic on Thursday. Lovin it so far! Just had a couple of general questions.

1) oil- I have seen/heard everything from any synthetic to only the SeaDoo oil.

2) 10 hour oil change- my dealer said it had to go to them for the first oil change for the warranty to be valid. Is this true??? Ridiculous if it is- I have built 1000 hp street cars for fun, yet I'm not allowed to do my own oil change on a 3 cylinder lol? Especially since they quoted me an hours labor at $80/hr- just to suck the oil out of the dipstick tube??? Plus oil & filter!

3) compass does not work. It turns completely black when I turn the boat on. I was wondering if it is disabled on certain models or something, but the manual shows it as functional.

4) I have read that the computer richens up the mixture and pulls timing for the first 7 hours, but others have said it is BS- has this been verified?

5) I cannot be the only one who has noticed that the "speedster" graphics running across the cowl (helm) where "speedster" is cut off at the end has it spelled "speedt instead of "speeds"- who the hell does seadoo's proofreading :D?

If some of these questions are answered in the manual, just say "read it dumbass". I haven't had a chance to sit and read the whole thing yet.

Looking forward to a fun summer and more than likely doing a bunch of mods- I can't leave anything stock :). Thanks in advance.
Joe
 
Welcome to the forum Joe. I don't think you'll ever be called a dumb a** here. Here are the part numbers you need to change the oil and filter in a 4-tec engine.

(3) "O" rings
1)420320920-$7.25
2)420850500-$8.99
3)420950860-$2.20

Oil filter /I use a K&N off their website.
1)KN556-$12.95

Oil 10w40 Mineral Oil from seadoo#219700346-$6.50 a qt.
Need 3 L or 2.7 us quarts with filter for oil change.
In the supercharged engine, it is not recommended that you use synthetic oil, it causes problems. You must use Marine 4 Stroke Mineral oil with a API of SL, SJ or SN.
Oil extractor from West Marine.Company Tempo, Part# 170200 Model# OB5 Retails about $50.00.
Change the oil when it is warm. Rev the engine to 4,000 rpm for 10 sec. and shut off at this rpm. This moves all the oil from the pto housing to the oil tank for maximum draining. Remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick. Insert the extractor tube in the dipstick 18.7 inches from the top of the dipstick pipe. Wrap tape around the tube to be sure it is in that deep. Next, extract the oil from the dipstick. Keep track of how much oil you extract and add what you removed.

You will need a E-10 star socket or a 8mm(6pt) socket to remove the oil filter cap. There are 3 "O" rings in the filter cap area if they are damaged change them. Check level.
As far as the warranty it might be right on. If you have an extended warranty, you have to abide by the small print which might say" all service must be performed by a seadoo dealer."

The compass should work...sounds like a warranty issue.
I never noticed the wording wrong...I own a 200 speedster and it is all correct on mine. Oh yea you might want to read the manual for break-in procedure. It states that you should only run it to 3/4 throttle for short durations. The Mpem(Multi Purpose Electronic Module) doesn't change the timing or any settings during the break-in period, that is B.S.. If you want a join as a "premium member" you could than download a service manual on the 4-tec engines for yourself and view it on line or print it off for your own personal and privet use. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link for details. If you have any more questions give us a shout. This is a friendly forum with many active members eager to help with advice.

Karl
 
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2008 Speedster 150

I just got a new 2008 speedster 150 as well. I can't answer all your questions and I have a couple of my own. First, I also have always worked on all my toys from dirt bikes to jetski for over 30 yrs and I have no intention of doing any different with the seadoo. So I plan to buy the shop manual. These manuals pay for themselves very quickly on anything. (BikeBandit.com) Second, the operating manual specifically says do not use synthetic oils due to supercharger clutch and it gave oil specs for any common 10w-40 oil that should be acceptable in this engine. I also could have bought the 2007 but thanks to this and other forums I found out the 2008 has a significant number of minor engine reliability upgrades. Metal supercharger clutch washers, more durable timing chain, valve seat seals, K&N filters. All these upgrades seem to be aimed at reliability. I have modified enough of my stuff and have no intentions of changing anything on the seadoo, it seems to have enough motor for me. I would like to have the boat be a little quieter, too much noise coming from engine compartment. I did not see any easy way to insulate for noise but if anybody has done something that works, please let me know. I'm on my first 10 hours and do not know if engine has a retarded timing but the dealer did mention it, so maybe it's true. Good luck to others new owners, and good fun as well.
 
Warranty....

The only reason the dealer wants you to bring the craft on it's first ten hours is so they can inspect the oil and look for any shavings.....possible charger problems. If it caused me to lose my warranty, I'd have them do it.
Oh, the mpem doesn't make any adjustments. It's interprets the information and sends it to the ECM for the "engine management system" to do it. And it does change engine input. I just don't know if it actually changes the timing. I know the timing curve can be changed through the BUDS software. That's it........that's all I know. :cheers:
 
Noise Insulation

I have heard of owners using stereo pad to insulate the bottom or the rear deck tray facing the engine, and the sides of the hull around the engine compartment.

Karl
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Maybe I'll bite the bullet and take it in for the first oil change, it is a complete ripoff though and I will put any amount of money on it that this shop will not inspect a damn thing. Hell, a buddy dropped off a snowmobile clutch that we knew was acting up to be inspected and rebuilt. They charged him labor to "disassemble and inspect" and said it was fine. Well, when we disassembled it, it was shot. Not to mention that when they reassembled it they didn't line up any of the balance marks at all..

Funny how I can't do my oil change for warranty reasons, but they can- I have forgotten more than most of them will ever know lol.

Then again, I'll probably mod the thing anyway, so the warranty may not matter- just have to get the compass fixed.

kustomkarl- THANK YOU for the info on the oil change, I'll round up some of those items. As for break in, we all have our own opinions/experience regarding it- mine is it is as broken in as it will get already, but it isn't meant to be an argument- I respect everyones right to do things their own way :).

As for the spelling, I'll run outside and get a picture, I found it pretty funny!
Joe
 
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Here are the pics. The first one is of the yellow "speedt" I was talking about- someone forgot how to spell speedster hehe. The second one of the gray lettering shows that the spacing is way off for the letters to spell it out as they have it- the "er" is where the "te" should be. I used to do vinyl signs and graphics, so I notice this stuff. Doesn't bother me, I just think it is pretty funny.
 

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Metal supercharger clutch washers

So this has been verified? I know I read other posts where it was mentioned that people were unsure if the boats got the metal washers or not and also if it was a late/early model thing. If it is late/early- anyone know a HIN/build date cutoff?
 
OMG, Joe your right! I never noticed the spelling is wrong! If you don't have any extended warranty with small print, I would do your own service. I Try not to give anything other than seadoo recommended advice on the forum unless it is my own personal opinion. So this is my opinion...I never bring my cars, boats, or other toys to the dealer except for warranty things they won't let me replace. I told the selling dealer my background and the manager told me to just document everything I did to protect my a**, if a warranty issue did come up. I raced Kawasaki's Drag bikes, Motocrosses 125 250 and open class plus stand-up Jet Ski's for 10 years. I was a certified tech. for Kawasaki and Honda. I worked my way up the chain to be a service manager for both dealerships in my 20's , and turned in my helmet at age 35.
If you have that kind of problem with the dealership I would find a better one to go to, just to buy part from on line. The forum has a couple good ones here in the links on the home page, give them a try. If we can help any more give us a shout.

Karl
 
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OMG, Joe your right! I never noticed the spelling is wrong! If you don't have any extended warranty with small print, I would do your own service. I Try not to give anything other than seadoo recommended advice on the forum unless it is my own personal opinion. So this is my opinion...I never bring my cars, boats, or other toys to the dealer except for warranty things they won't let me replace. I told the selling dealer my background and the manager told me to just document everything I did to protect my a**, if a warranty issue did come up. I raced Kawasaki's Drag bikes, Motocrosses 125 250 and open class plus stand-up Jet Ski's for 10 years. I was a certified tech. for Kawasaki and Honda. I worked my way up the chain to be a service manager for both dealerships in my 20's , and turned in my helmet at age 35.
If you have that kind of problem with the dealership I would find a better one to go to, if just to buy parts or look on line. The forum has a couple good ones here in the links on the home page, give them a try. If we can help any more give us a shout.

Karl

Haha- told you it's pretty funny how they mispelled the name of their own boat :).

As for warranty, I just have the basic (one year I guess?). I usually don't ever get anything mechanical done at any dealers- cars, motorcycles, etc.- I always do my own work, even if it were something that would be under warranty. Most of the time, the few bucks it costs you to do yourself and the possibility of upgrading while you're at it far outweigh the headaches of the dealers screwing something up :(.

On another note- how's Englewood? I used to live in Port Charlotte and was actually looking to move back this year, but we have a kid on the way, so things got put off for now, so I'm stuck in PA longer :(. I love being on the water and bug infested lakes just don't do it for me haha.
 
warranty.........

Your probably right.......they won't check a damn thing! But let the supercharger blow and that will be the first reason they deny you warranty work. You sound like you been around the mill a few times......there all crooks!
 
Oh man, small world... just so you know I went cruising to Sarasota most of the day today and got a little burnt...like 5 hrs burnt...Things are little slow, business and economy wise. I own a Mobility equipment company with a Certified Car Dealership. We have been busy but in general the building industry is at a all time low. The election year doesn't help either...BUT it doesn't snow here...lol
 
Your probably right.......they won't check a damn thing! But let the supercharger blow and that will be the first reason they deny you warranty work. You sound like you been around the mill a few times......there all crooks!

I don't know about sports equipment type dealers like this, but I can tell you it is very rare that I encounter an automotive dealers service department that is a) honest or b) is not a complete hack shop..


Anyway- I forgot to ask this earlier- are there any programmers or anything available for these like you'd use for a car or motorcycle ecm?
Joe
 
Oh man, small world... just so you know I went cruising to Sarasota most of the day today and got a little burnt...like 5 hrs burnt...Things are little slow, business and economy wise. I own a Mobility equipment company with a Certified Car Dealership. We have been busy but in general the building industry is at a all time low. The election year doesn't help either...BUT it doesn't snow here...lol

Yeah, it was sad driving around down there in November and seeing all the "for sale" signs in front of all the houses :(.

As for the weather and Sarasota- I'm jealous haha. This was a LONG, miserable winter up here. Finally started getting nice so I figured I'd make the best out of being here and bought this boat the other day. It is a blast, but man- the bugs around here are horrible. We came back yesterday covered in bug splatter- our glasses, shirts, the boat, etc. Literally swarms of mosquitoes and other "water" bugs all over. We tried to shut the boat off and just float around a bit and it was loaded with bugs in no time at all :(.
 
Seadoo does have a programmer that works on the 4-tec engines but it is only available from a authorized dealer. I think they are real expensive for owners to buy... I believe they are like $3,000.00 or something direct from seadoo to dealers only.
 
we have th same problem here too in the winter...but we call them snowbirds...

Yup, I remember lol. Luckily you only get them for a few months- we get them the rest of the year since they live up here in the first place :).


As for the programmer- I was hoping here were aftermarket ones available, similar to the power commanders for motorcycles. Is there anyone that does reflashing or any custom tuning?

What about sources for performance parts (props, supercharger parts, etc.)? Thanks for all the help Karl! I just like to know what is available for any given vehicle I own just in case the bug bites and the modding starts :)..
Joe
 
Well the programmer is only available from seadoo BRP. I don't think you can get the BUDS program either (Bombardier Utility Diagnostic System), which I believe allows the parameter of the engines to be set. I think it is a dealer exclusive. Same as the programmer for the dess. It allows you to reprogram the lanyards to the mpem for security against theft. If you could buy them than you could steal any doo you wanted to by re-programing the lanyard.
 
Oh yeah- also, the mechanic at the shop told me not to let it run out of the water for more than 10-15 seconds. The only things I could think of were cooling- but it is closed loop and possibly something with the jet pump needing water for lubricant, but I don't know what it consists of mechanically.

Is this true or BS? I know you said to run it at 4k for 10 seconds when warm, so I wasn't sure if you meant after a day of running it, come home and do this or if you meant to start it and let it warm up out of the water then rev it. Thanks.
Joe
 
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Joe, Don't let it run out of the water more than a 30 seconds! The inter-cooling plates are on the bottom of the boat. It won't get cool cause it isn't in the water. To rinse the exhaust after use, start it up, turn on water, run 15-20 seconds, shut off water, stop engine. If you run it for longer it will over heat the engine and the impeller bearings and seals have no lubrication and will get hot. If your in salt water you need to rince the stainless exhaust. If in freshwater, no need to.

FYI::: if after you pull the boat out of the water, don't touch the plates under the boat...they will be hot, cause they act like a radiator
 
Joe, Don't let it run out of the water more than a 30 seconds! The inter-cooling plates are on the bottom of the boat. It won't get cool cause it isn't in the water. To rinse the exhaust after use, start it up, turn on water, run 15-20 seconds, shut off water, stop engine. If you run it for longer it will over heat the engine and the impeller bearings and seals have no lubrication and will get hot. If your in salt water you need to rince the stainless exhaust. If in freshwater, no need to.

FYI::: if after you pull the boat out of the water, don't touch the plates under the boat...they will be hot, cause they act like a radiator

Gotcha. Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully taking my wife out for a little while today. She is 5 months pregnant, so no screwing around- just cruising.
Joe
 
The waters should be calm with it being monday...get some pictures for the gallery to show off that new boat...

Karl
 
The waters should be calm with it being monday...get some pictures for the gallery to show off that new boat...

Karl

Just got back. Sorry, no pics :(. I'll have to bring the camera next time.

It was a bit choppy due to the winds. It wasn't bad, but we were taking it easy just in case. Kind of boring cruising 11-20mph for 2 1/2 hours, but I got to open it up a couple of times a little. Went for a quick blast by myself and got to blast some turns and such. I got it up to 52mph by the speedo (no GPS). Not too shabby. The salesman told me 60-65, but I knew that was a load when he said it, I was expecting 50-55 and it seems to be close.

One other issue I had was the hour meter. It was 4 when we hit the lake, then went to 5, 6 and then I shut the boat off for a bit to float around and when I restarted it was back to 4 hours.. I know I read something about the hour meter resetting to 0, but this was odd that it lost 2 hours.
 
wow that boat will stay new forever....with out much use.:rofl: I helped someone else that had the same problem... It seems to be a warranty problem. Back to the dealer for a replacement.

Karl
P.S. I just took pictures of my newly renovated lift and roof. I have been redoing it for the past 3 weeks, on and off. Take a peek.
 
wow that boat will stay new forever....with out much use.:rofl: I helped someone else that had the same problem... It seems to be a warranty problem. Back to the dealer for a replacement.

Karl
P.S. I just took pictures of my newly renovated lift and roof. I have been redoing it for the past 3 weeks, on and off. Take a peek.

I'll have to take it in for that and the compass I guess. Probably needs a new cluster I'm guessing. Oh well.. If they checked everything instead of just leaving the PDI check list in the bag, they probably would have caught the compass not working at least lol


Just checked out your pics- very nice, I'm jealous :). I have to drive on the crappy PA roads to the lake and unload the boat on a mosquito infested ramp into a bug infested lake :(. Hopefully it gets better as the season progresses!
Joe
 
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